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 Post subject: duratec timing cover
PostPosted: April 13, 2018, 8:25 pm 
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Joined: October 19, 2009, 9:36 pm
Posts: 2089
Location: meadview arizona
will a focus 2.0 timing cover fit on a ranger 2.3 engine?

i am trying to fit an electric fan but the ranger timing cover has a great big tit in the middle with a shaft sticking out of it.

i can't just cut it off because it is hollow into the timing cover and would leave a hole.

up to now i was using the viscous clutch fan but as i have been messing with the PCM, i could convert to electric, switched by the PCM, the scalar is their and the relay, all i have to do is plug the original harness into the fan, if i could get the original fan between the radiator and the motor but the 'afor mentioned tit is in the way.

anyone got a duratec timing cover for a focus?

regards John

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 Post subject: Re: duratec timing cover
PostPosted: April 13, 2018, 9:23 pm 
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Joined: January 1, 2012, 12:44 pm
Posts: 324
Location: Boise, Idaho
Here's a measurement for you to check. The distance from the center of the outermost pan to front cover bolt on the intake side, straight up to the seam between the front cover and the valve cover is 17.5" on the duratec 2.0 that I have.


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 Post subject: Re: duratec timing cover
PostPosted: April 13, 2018, 11:10 pm 
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Joined: March 19, 2011, 10:22 am
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
john hennessy wrote:
the scalar


Now I've been twisting tools a lot of years, you made me look this one up on Wikipedia.
Way above my pay scale to comment on.

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 Post subject: Re: duratec timing cover
PostPosted: April 14, 2018, 2:11 am 
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Joined: January 18, 2015, 2:34 am
Posts: 51
Location: Los Angeles
I have a 2.3 in my Birkin. My motor is out of a Ranger and had the big bump out. I found a cover for a Focus and it fit perfectly. I think it cost me around $50. As you embark on this project, invest in a couple of “bottom” taps to chase the threads in the block and covers. It really helps when you go to reassemble things. The Locktight works much more effectively. The only other “Ranger/Focus”dimension difference I ran into involved the starter. I am using an Exedy lightened flywheel. It fits the Ranger 2.3 perfectly but it was designed for a Focus and the teeth are spaced a little further from the block. This necessitates using a Focus starter on the Ranger motor. The gear spins back a little further and engages perfectly with the Exedy flywheel.


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 Post subject: Re: duratec timing cover
PostPosted: April 14, 2018, 3:20 am 
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Joined: October 19, 2009, 9:36 pm
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Location: meadview arizona
sorry about "scalar", its a ford EEC term for various different values in the PCM that you can change, the value of injector slopes or switch something on or off dependant upon the vehicle hardware installed on the vehicle like a/c or power steering.

in my case an electric fan, the relay is grounded by pin 45 in the PCM so all i have to do is connect the plug on the fan to the blue wire at the battery junction box and a local ground, everything else is in there already, then set the temp for on and off and enable in the "scalars"

so i can go ahead and get a focus timing cover then.

just got to work out the idler pulleys to run the belt without the fan pulley

that's what i like about this forum, you get a good answer to a difficult question!

thanks guys

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 Post subject: Re: duratec timing cover
PostPosted: April 14, 2018, 7:10 am 
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Joined: February 28, 2009, 11:09 pm
Posts: 1290
Location: Connersville, Indiana
No, the 2.3 block is 3/4" taller than the 2.0. But fwd 2.3 - 2.5 timing covers will work on the Ranger block. There is an oil passage that will have to be blocked.

Bill


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 Post subject: Re: duratec timing cover
PostPosted: April 17, 2018, 12:30 pm 
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Location: meadview arizona
Bill,

can you explain what and where the oil passage is and have you done this?

i have a new timing cover for a 2005 focus 2.3 coming with a new pulley bolt and friction washer.

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 Post subject: Re: duratec timing cover
PostPosted: April 18, 2018, 7:14 am 
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Joined: February 28, 2009, 11:09 pm
Posts: 1290
Location: Connersville, Indiana
John, I can't help any further. I was operating from memory of what I had read on the Turbo Ranger Forum.
http://www.turborangerforums.com/showthread.php?t=7940
It appears there is another thread which dives more deeply into the swap.
Looking at it this morning, I realize he was putting a Ranger cover on a Fusion block. There was also talk of which cam to use, which changes oiling. As I have never actually faced the problem, I can't get my head wrapped around the issue. There is a distinct possibility there are no oiling issues. All I can do is offer the standard "thoughts and prayers".

Bill


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 Post subject: Re: duratec timing cover
PostPosted: April 18, 2018, 9:24 am 
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Joined: February 8, 2014, 10:47 pm
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Location: Cornholio OR "Where the magic happens"
Oil passage might be for VVT?

Mr Hennessy, would you share which ECU you are using and what tools you twiddle it's bits with?

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 Post subject: Re: duratec timing cover
PostPosted: April 18, 2018, 5:12 pm 
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Joined: October 19, 2009, 9:36 pm
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Location: meadview arizona
well that might be what the oiling issue is but as i don't have vvt, i would assume that the passage is already blocked but i will look very carefully before i fit the cover.

as far as ECU, well i could write a book on the subject, the short answer is the factory ranger ECU but that won't help you or anyone else for that matter.

first is the PATS issue that all fords suffer from and their ability to completely forget the key codes at will, i say all fords but that is not strictly true, the ford ranger i used for my build is 2003 and like all fords made after 1994 uses a EEC V PCM, previous to then, from about 1984 they used a EEC IV, both of these PCM's have what is known as a J3 port on the back and 106 pin plug on the front in my case, the plug on the front sends and receives information for the engine to run.

about 2001 or 02 ford took the PATS module out of the vehicles, this was switchable to on or off, they then incorporated the PATS into the engine PCM with no way to disable it period, hence forth, if your PATS system forgot the key code you were stranded and only a tow to the dealer was the answer.

it would appear that once your car learns to forget your key code it will remember to do it.

there are various videos on youtube of this phenomina and ways to correct it or sometimes it will self fix but believe me it will remember how to strand you and will do it.

this is where it gets interesting, if you haven't gone to sleep yet,for some reason ford continued the EEC V into 2006 on base model rangers with duratec 2.3 engines, this too had the J3 port and for some reason ford deleted the PATS system in these vehicles.

you might wonder why i am talking so much about PATS, well when they incorporated it in the PCM any attempts to change or tamper with the workings of the PCM may arm the system and diable the car so before you go attempting to tune one you should really disable the PATS or fit a PCM without PATS.

as the hardware of the engine was essentially the same in the 2003 to the 2005/6 and the 106 pin plug is the same, it would be possible to use a 2005/6 PCM plug and play thus dissabling any PATS that would give you problems in the future, i have not tried this as i was not aware of it until recently.

ford PCM's use various types of hardware in the PCM and a thing called a "catch code" which is displayed on the unit, each catch code needs what is called a strategy which is the operating system some strategies can move from one catch code to another, i am simplifying this some what.

many of the ford PCM's have been decoded but there are so many that many still lie out there still to be decoded so the strategies to these catch codes are still a mystery, all though you could if you had a common engine try a strategy that is known to work with that engine or replace the PCM with a unit whose catch code is known to use a common stratergy.

example is 302 V8 in a mustang would likely use a PCM with a A9L catch code for which all sorts of tunes are available.

with the assistance of very clever others have incorporated a strategy into my 2003 PCM based on a 2006 ranger PCM thus disabling the PATS system, and now have a car that will start and run on a "tin" key rather than a chipped key in N/A form and will never ever cause a PATS arming again.

how that strategy was incorporated is at present a top secret, however i will say that if you remove the PCM and install it in another car the PATS will arm itself and the key code in the PCM is the same as the chipped key that i have but it will not disarm as the key is not recognized.but an other key could be coded in to the PCM, likewise any PCM from a 2003 ranger with a 2.3 engine could be installed in my car without the need for a PATS key should i have a failed PCM at any time for one reason or another.

there are no gimmick devices on the engine and no sensors have been modified save the knock sensor as it was picking up the supercharger noise and retarding timing as if it was an engine knock

i have been held up with other things to do on the car but will, i hope, to have a tune in the car within a week or two which will explore the potential of the supercharger within the limits of the pistons and rods now in the engine.

when this is done, i will make this available, note that all the other functions of the PCM remain unchanged which would be of benefit to anyone wishing to do my modifications to a 2.3 duratec ranger even with an automatic transmission, power steering and air conditioning using various tire sizes and final drive ratios and the factory instrument cluster where all the gauges work correctly.

my next novel will be War and Peace part 2, a detailed in depth history of obtaining planning permission and inspections of my front porch which only took a year to complete.

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 Post subject: Re: duratec timing cover
PostPosted: May 20, 2018, 1:17 pm 
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Joined: October 19, 2009, 9:36 pm
Posts: 2089
Location: meadview arizona
O.K. here is a rundown on my PCM modifications.

the trick piece is a Tweecer, this device when fitted to the J3 port of the Ford PCM enables the factory tune to be mirrored into the Tweecer.

the Tweecer RT is the particular model i am using as this one allows for changes to be made, it also will store 4 different tunes and revert back to the factory tune by the turn of a knob.

the time that it has taken to get to this point has been long and arduous due to the afore mentioned PATS and a lack of strategies that are known to work with this PCM catch code, but now we have cracked it, the door is wide open.

this endevor could not have been undertaken if it was not for the exceptional assistance of Mike Glover the inventor of the Tweecar and indeed others that have been enlisted with regard to code cracking and fuel and spark requirements for my particular set up.

there are no set tunes available as yet to run the M90 supercharger on a 2.3 duratec from anyone as far as i know, but this seems to be strange as it should be a common mod.

the duratec has a floor, a big floor in that it only uses friction washers to hold the timing gears in place and is a disaster waiting to happen, the washers are designed to grip the crank, sprocket and damper and prevent it from moving, i have to ask how a diamond encrusted washer will embed itself into a sprocket that is so hard that it can't be machined for a keyway and to get one with a keyway needs to have it spark eroded, fortunately Cosworth make such a device among others so all you need to do is have the crank machined with a keyway and likewise the damper as this is controlling the spark.

the crank machining will cost you around $150 as this is mostly setup time, alternatively the is a setup from Massive which has the sprocket and crank pre machined for a woodruff key but it is a smaller key at 3mm than the Cosworth one at 5mm, i do not know if Massive do a keywayed damper.

in my case the blower needs to be slowed down but i cannot fit a larger blower pulley due to hood clearance so i will be using a smaller crank pulley, these are available from Cosworth with a keyway to suit their 5mm key or with no keyway from others but are made of aluminum and i doubt if sufficient torque could be applied to the crank bolt without distortion when trying to tighten the bolt with friction washers.

GOLDEN RULE FOR A DURATEC REBUILD !!!! IF THE CRANK HAS TO BE REMOVED FOR ANY REASON< GET A KEYWAY CUT IN IT OR BUY A PRE KEYWAYED CRANK!!!!!

a new pre keywayed crank is available from Massive together with a sprocket.

crank = $365.77
sprocket = $79.93

if the above operation is not done , then you may have a disasterous failure, its called insurance, i know that some are getting away with it but if Cosworth see the need then they have a reason to do so.

i believe that this is the reason that supercharger kits are not readily available for the duratec, they have been in the past so i can only assume that some have got their fingers burnt and discontinued them in favor of a turbo set up.

i will be going with a Cosworth sprocket with the larger key 5mm, as i am also driving the blower, it is more expensive at $140.00 but again insurance.

while the motor is apart, i will also do some other improvements, a thick head gasket from Cometic at .051" instead of .018", forged pistons and forged rods.

the cams and valve gear will remain stock as i do not feel the need to spin the motor above 5000 rpm

the above changes should allow a little more boost at peak 8lbs. and slow the rise in boost a little to make it "softer" to drive.

the engine runs in closed loop most of the time so is quite economical and only makes boost if you get on it. due to the bypass system the cruising load of the blower is minimal.

so the advantage of using a factory computer and a Tweecer are in my opinion, parts replacement, starting with a stock factory tune the ability to have everything work from day one, no modification to the factory engine harness, total control over fuel and spark maps, ability to return to stock tune with the turn of a knob, all the things that the factory PCM offers like electric fans, rev limiters and the flexibility to run mass air with all the self tuning that closed loop offers.

you just stick it on the J3 port, download the stock tune and save it in the free software, reload the tune to the software with a new name, make the changes you would like and upload to the Tweecer, you will be uploading a modified factory tune with only the changes you have made, everything else stays the same.

yes there is a learning curve to tuning but the engine starts with no inputs from you other than making the needed engine connections and with a factory harness then turning the key, if the motor is stock or close to stock it will start, run and idle with an A/F ratio of around 14.8 - 1, how long does that take to achieve with mega squirt, then you can fiddle with it to your hearts content knowing you can always go back, even change injector size if your tune needs it as in my case.

you can check your changes in the software and datalog when driving, the hardest part of this to me was getting round PATS and learning the software.

in the future i will be adding some intercooling which will require a total re design of the intake manifolds and blower mounting, this will affect my tune somewhat but i can make adjustments to the tune in the Tweecer to compensate, being the factory based tune, moving the intake air temperature sensor to the boost manifold should then compensate for the cooler charge temps automatically in closed loop and my modifications should only need to be made in open loop boost conditions.

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this story shall the good man teach his son,
and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by,
from this day to the end of the world.
but we in it shall be remembered.


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