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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: December 1, 2018, 1:02 am 
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Joined: October 19, 2009, 9:36 pm
Posts: 2090
Location: meadview arizona
i got the motor out yesterday, now comes the part where i have to outsmart the idiot that decided to leave out the woodruff key in the crank, so along with that i will build the motor stronger, faster and a little less boosty.

the plan is to use a cosworth timing sprocket on the crank with the keyway machined into it and cut a similar keyway in the crank, in addition i will use the dreaded friction washers on the camsthat should stop the [Fatherless Child] slipping!

now we come to the crank pulley, i do not think that one woodruff key will hold the pulley to the crank so i plan to add some round pins located like keys in three positions as i have read that the supercharger load will sheer the woodruff key on LS cranks and this is the accepted method of fixing it.

this may take some doing as my pulley is aluminum and the crank is cast but if the crank gets a keyway i can make a jig to do my drilling and a sacrificial mild steel collar over the crank so the drill stays straight then remove the collar and replace it with the pulley and drill it again with the jig, lining the jig up each time with the keyway. maybe i will see if i cant use an iron pipe fitting for the collar if it is similarly as hard as the crank.

i have ordered some parts, the cylinders are in very good condition and round, i will just give them a very quick hone, so standard bore forged pistons from wisco and some "H" beam forged rods, all to be balanced, the motor is not going to be a screamer but it is blown so heavy duty is best.

the bearings are perfect and show very little to no wear on the mains and rods but those idiot ford engineer couldn't design a block with a straight crank bore so it may be mix and match on the mains but again its blown so i could just install .001 oversized bearings to get the oil film up as a cushion against detonation, clevite do make them.

the block needs some work with a die grinder and a file to deburr it and chamfer the oil returns then a good cleaning.

we will see if the bearings when installed in the new rods have the right cleaences as they are like new but in a different rod may not be correct.

the head is not so good with 16 bent valves so a reconditioned head was sourced at a cost of $299.00 with cams and lash pre set, although, the cams will have to be removed to install it

i will be fitting a head stud kit and a main stud kit from ARP.

i have ordered an intake gasket from burton in England as it will save me having to make one because the manifold has changed because of the blower and the stock rubber seals won't work.

the timing chain and guides are in very good condition so i will keep them but the tensioner will be changed..

the idea is to build a very strong bottom end that will not fail under boost

anyone who has dabbled with duratecs and could offer some tips. please chime in.

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PostPosted: December 1, 2018, 2:18 am 
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Joined: November 11, 2013, 4:47 am
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Location: No. Nevada
Quote:
supercharger load will sheer the woodruff key on LS cranks and this is the accepted method of fixing it.

Uh, what?
I thought LS was Chevy but you seem to be talking Ford? :?

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PostPosted: December 3, 2018, 12:07 am 
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Joined: January 31, 2012, 12:49 pm
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Location: Louisville KY
I bought an almost-new GM V6 (3500?) a few years ago for like $50 after the key sheared off on the drive shaft. The drive shaft was dinged enough that a new key wasn't gonna fix it w/o cutting a new slot. Oh, and a couple of the pistons had smiles on 'em, the valves bent, etc.

Have to wonder what auto manufacturers are thinking with that key / half moon thing?

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Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
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PostPosted: December 3, 2018, 9:13 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
geek49023 said
"Have to wonder what auto manufacturers are thinking with that key / half moon thing?"

Every single little engineering change must be approved by purchasing. A beam counter just save .03 cents in machining cost Vs milling the full length of the crank nose for a sq. key.

And he got a bonus at the end of the year!

DaveW


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PostPosted: December 3, 2018, 9:54 am 
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Joined: January 31, 2012, 12:49 pm
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Location: Louisville KY
davew wrote:
Every single little engineering change must be approved by purchasing. A beam counter just save .03 cents in machining cost Vs milling the full length of the crank nose for a sq. key.

And he got a bonus at the end of the year!

DaveW


Having once been the pastor for the SVP-Finance of Ford Mo Co (after he retired) I can tell you that I've met those bean counters. And the senior engineers (one came over to Fords from NASA). The Ford people told me that they know every problem on every vehicle before they're produced... and yes, it's always a cost thing.

Tim

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PostPosted: December 3, 2018, 10:24 am 
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*Mazda engineers :wink:

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PostPosted: December 13, 2018, 5:15 pm 
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Joined: October 19, 2009, 9:36 pm
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Location: meadview arizona
as the title says i'm trying to outsmart the ford engineers but that is proving more difficult than at first thought.
there are two ways to get a timing sprocket, 1. from Burton Performance which is the outlet for Cosworth parts, the other is from Massive here in the U.S.A.but this is a smaller key than the Cosworth one.

i chose to get the Cosworth sprocket from Burton in England, thinking if it was good enough for Cosworth then it should be good for me, alas there is only one of these sprockets in existence outside of an engine, it was on the shelf at Burtons so i purchased it and they sent it by mail. the royal mail did their part of the journey to Los Angeles but then the USPS took control, well it was sent to Utah then to Rochester New York which is typical of the USPS but after several hours on the phone with hold times of 2 hours it was finally sent to Las Vegas Nevada and then to Kingman Arizona then to my local office so now i have it !!!!

i chose the 5mm key instead of the 3mm because i would be driving the blower off the crank pulley which must be located on the crank to obtain the correct ignition timing and to stop it turning under load so the larger key was used.

all i had to do was get a keyway cut in the snout of the crank, HAHAHA!!!it took me visits to 4 engineering companies before i got a price of under $400.00 but i did find someone to do the job of cutting the keyway in the crank plus the front pulley for $200.00 so i now wait to see if i will have a usable crank and pulley.

it is not surprising that no one offers a supercharger kit for the 2.3 duratec as to correct the missing crank keyway oversight of the Ford/Mazda engineers is a nightmare but if not done the supercharger load on the front pulley will undo the crank bolt.

i pity any Ford/Mazda owner with this engine in their car that has an AC compressor lock up as the compressor is driven in the same way as my supercharger with the added torque of a much larger pulley to turn the crank pulley backwards in relation to the rotating crank. (AC not working so now all my valves are bent and my pistons are damaged)

the rest of the engine is progressing nicely, the block is bored to my Wisco pistons and my forged H beam rods are waiting to be balanced, the King race (black) bearings are here and i have a reconditioned head with valves and new cams

i have ARP studs for the mains and head with ARP rod bolts, i have deburred the block as per the cosworth instruction manual but prior to assembly i will have the rotating and reciprocating parts balance.

at this time i am looking at oil pumps, Melling M330 is the stock pump but the Mazda 6 pump looks bigger, part # M352, if anyone has looked at this i would appreciate a heads up as i would like to increase the bearing clearances a little to give more of an oil cushion.

has anyone ever looked at using an inlet cam for the exhaust side of the engine, yes i know the slot in the end of the cam is wrong but i could set the timing with a dial gauge and degree wheel as the lift and duration are both larger than the stock exhaust cam and as with most supercharged engines would probably benefit form more exhaust cam or at least some advance and a bit of retard on the inlet but who knows, i'm flying by the seat of my pants here.

i have made one more consession to the god of supercharging in that i chosen a colder copper tipped spark plug in the Autolite 103

right from the outset, this was a backyard build using mostly stuff i had or was given for a few bucks like me using the factory PCM and a second hand supercharger which exceeded the mechanical limits of the motor, or at least the Ford/Mazda engineers and i must be honest, i never though that it would be so powerful or successful and would have recommended this route to performance to others had it not been for the crank key issue but i believe that when this hurdle is crossed all will be good.

just remember that should anything driven by the crank belt lock up you could destroy the valves, ( power steering, alternator, AC compressor etc )

the forged pistons, rods and the stud kits will only be installed because i had to take the crank out of the motor as apart from nicks in the pistons from kissing the valves all was good and with a little clean up could be reused, especially when you consider that during tuning the PCM i had an A/F ratio of around 18-1 and 5 plus grand on the motor, all that happened was it burned away the center electrodes of the plugs which caused the coil to break down and loose spark.

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this story shall the good man teach his son,
and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by,
from this day to the end of the world.
but we in it shall be remembered.


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