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I'm using a 240z engine and trans. The rear end in a 240z is IRS so the yoke in the trans only has to move a little to compensate for chassis flex and bushing movement. My car is set up for a stick axle but won't this make the yoke do a job it wasn't designed for? (Too much movement)

I'm only in the planning stages so I could still go with a Miata rear to match my Miata front hubs. Any input is welcome.

As long as it's a U-joint or CV joint, it should be fine. Now, if it's some kind of power coupling like they use on stationary machinery, you could have trouble. Honestly though, I've never seen that on a car other than the giubos used on some German cars, but they function like a U-joint anyway.

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Mike - Read my story at http://twinlakesseven.blogspot.com/

It's the seal that I'm worried about. I'm leaning towards Miata rear end right now anyway. I'm trying to reason out all the possibilities before committing to something.

As I recall, the 240Z basically used the same tranny as the 510, and the 510 wagons were equipped with a stick axle. You should be good to go. Don't let analysis paralysis stall your progress.

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Mike - Read my story at http://twinlakesseven.blogspot.com/

Oh god, how did you know? I tend to over analyze most things. I've made a couple definite decisions though. I've only had the project a couple weeks and I've bought an engine, just decided on the Miata rear, I've got the paint color and quite a few other things decided. I'll be buying a couple things a month and be building all winter. I've seen lots of 7's but didn't know I could build one. It's exactly what I've been looking for.

Alright now, here's a biggie! If you post where you live, someone may live near you that has already done this. We don't want your city and street address, just the general part of the country you live in would help us help you! OK!

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Mike - Read my story at http://twinlakesseven.blogspot.com/

I live in Minneapolis MN. I welcome anyone with an interest in locosts or fabricating to stop by my shop. I can private message my number. I have shop space for rent also.

You should be fine with a live axe instead of IRS. The key is to make sure the yoke is sticking far enough out of the trans that it doesn't bind or put a thrust load on the output shaft anywhere in the range of axle movement. A lot of yoke are about 4" long and you're perfectly ok to have an inch sticking out. Make sure the rear seal on the trans is in good shape and plow forward.

Pictures and questions are your friends here.

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Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216

I used to build driveshafts for a living. Almost everything that uses a slip-yoke into the back of the transmission needs the yoke an inch from bottomed at normal ride height. A lot of sporty cars can get away with a half inch, but it may cause difficulty installing it.