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Well after casually searching for a F20C for over 6 month the right deal finally came along. Today I picked up a non running F20C with Transmission, ecu harness and header for $1000. I am so happy with the price, I have not found anything like that for less than about $3000. The reason I want the F20C is having the 2.0 rather than the 2.2 will allow my to run in DMod rather than Emod. Doing so enables me to drop the cars weight from 1750 to 1420 with driver.

The 110k mile engine was a non runner with reported timing issue, the guy sent me a video of the engine turning freely so I pulled the trigged and picked it up today. Initial inspection looks good, the spark plugs have not been fired and the oil filter is dry (brand new). This leads me to believe that someone changed the timing chain and did not set up the timing properly so it would not fire. Hopefully I can just do the timing correctly and it will work.
These are the worst valves do they need to be replaced?There was a little surface rust on the cams but it is already all cleaned off.Before installing I will use my other lightweight flywheel and get a new 4 puck solid clutchBell housing is dirty but the trans seems to be in good shapeBrand new unfired spark plugsyou can see there has never been oil in this filteryou can clearly tell the timing cover has been removed.

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

I'll bet 1 cam is 180 out

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Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216

I am going to take the cover off an inspect the work. If they got the timing wrong who knows what else they messed up. Hopefully it will be an easy fix.

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

Anyone that applies RTV like that isn't capable of doing anything precisely. I think you're on the right track.

Plus who knows how much squeezed out on the inside. Last thing you want is for it to end up in the oil pick up or somewhere else.

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-Andrew
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I agree. I think I am actually going to take my time and do a full rebuild. Get it all nice and clean and probably increase to compression. I will talk to my tuner. It might be worth building it for E85 not sure how much compression I can add. I think 12.5:1 is a safe bet for pump gas. Not sure if I can increase that if I plan to run E85. Time to do some research.

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

I made more progress on the engine today, mainly stripping and cleaning.

All the ancillaries are removed

It looks like the car was run with too much oil which regularly came in through the intake. Lots of tar like deposits all the way to the valves.

Here is the pile of added lightness.... so far

_________________
2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

My leak down tester arrived and the 1st cylinder was about a 30% loss and it got worse from there. Huge amounts of air leaking from the exhaust valves and some from the cylinder so I decided to strip her dpwn completely.

There is significant scoring in 3 of the cylinders

The pistons are badly burnt and need to be replaced

The valves all need replacing.


The good news is the crank, connecting rods and cams all seem to be in great shape. At this point I think adding them to the other engine is going to be a better option than rebuilding this one especially as I plan to keep one as a spare anyway.

_________________
2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

I was hoping for better news.
Still a decent buy for the parts

_________________
Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216

The good news it I basically have everything I need to de-stroke the 2.2 liter so not really a problem. I think the engine could be repaired but it needs the cylinders to be resurfaced, new oversized pistons, new valves, cleaned exhaust port, upgraded retainers, plus there are several sensors, coil pack, starter etc missing.

The F22C I am currently using runs great so I think de-stroking it will be a much cheaper option. I also plan to increase the compression to 12.5:1 (from 11.0:1), run E85 and add a solid 4 puck clutch to save some weight. The hope is that it will make about the same power or a touch more despite the decrease in displacement.

While I have the engine open does anyone have a recomendation for easy upgrades I should complete that wont break the bank?

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

Don't use the 2.2 valve springs. They are a different part number and supposedly "softer". The forums say you need the 2.0 springs in order to rev like you want to.

Also the cams are different so if you want to rev it then you need the 2.0 cam as well.

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Yes, I planned on using the cams, I didn't realize the springs were different though thanks. So I need the AP1 cams and springs combined with the AP2 retainers.

_________________
2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558