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PostPosted: June 29, 2018, 5:40 pm 
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Location: Atlanta, GA
Last time I went to the track I found a puddle of diff fluid under the car. It's coming from the pinion seal and from what I've seen in youtube videos on how to replace it, it looks like you would have to pry it out with a screw driver? Problem is that there is no side access to the yoke/pinion so is it possible to pull it out with a hook type tool from the driveshaft tunnel? Really hoping I don't have to cut the frame to access it :|
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PostPosted: June 29, 2018, 6:59 pm 
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what axle are you using,

when you remove the pinion flange will you be replacing a crush washer and or will you need to reset the pinion preload?

the seal should just pry out or if you can get a self tapper in the seal and pull it out with vice grips.

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PostPosted: June 29, 2018, 7:15 pm 
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john hennessy wrote:
what axle are you using,

when you remove the pinion flange will you be replacing a crush washer and or will you need to reset the pinion preload?

the seal should just pry out or if you can get a self tapper in the seal and pull it out with vice grips.


I'm not sure what axle it is, I didn't build the car. Maybe a dumb question but by axle do you mean the drive shaft?
I'm assuming the new seal will come with a crush washer? I was planning on checking the torque of the pinion nut before opening it and then torque it to the same number + 1/8 more. That's what I've read.
The self tapper and vice grips sounds like a good idea. Also might try an adjustable seal puller.


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PostPosted: June 29, 2018, 7:55 pm 
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The pinion preload could be shimmed or crush sleeve depending on the make of diff.
I have changed pinion seals and successfully reused the same crush sleeve. You will need to take a chisel and mark the nut position on the pinion shaft before removing it, marking both the nut and the shaft.
Then impact the nut off, remove the pinion seal, install the new seal, and put the nut back on so the marks line up exactly. If you go past the mark, that's no good.
I have a slide hammer that you can put a sheet metal screw in the end. Make a hole in the seal with an awl, thread the slide hammer with screw into the seal and hammer it out. It may take a couple of different positions to get it out.

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PostPosted: June 29, 2018, 8:34 pm 
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horchoha wrote:
The pinion preload could be shimmed or crush sleeve depending on the make of diff.
I have changed pinion seals and successfully reused the same crush sleeve. You will need to take a chisel and mark the nut position on the pinion shaft before removing it, marking both the nut and the shaft.
Then impact the nut off, remove the pinion seal, install the new seal, and put the nut back on so the marks line up exactly. If you go past the mark, that's no good.
I have a slide hammer that you can put a sheet metal screw in the end. Make a hole in the seal with an awl, thread the slide hammer with screw into the seal and hammer it out. It may take a couple of different positions to get it out.


Thank you. I was wondering how I'm going to take the nut off without having a parking brake but an impact gun might be what I need as you said.


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PostPosted: June 29, 2018, 9:37 pm 
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First things first: Make sure your differential vent is not plugged. There is a vent somewhere to prevent pressure building while the fluid/air expands with heat. If it's plugged, and they often are, it will cause enough pressure to blow past the seals. If you do find the vent is plugged, unplug it and then check for leaks again. Chevron seals can usually handle being over-pressured without being damaged unless they are old/hard. Replacing that pinion seal is going to be tough, if not impossible with the rear end in the car. If the pinion flange is wider than the opening (which it appears to be in the pic) you may not be able to slide it forward enough to clear the splines. Also look into the crush sleeve. As mentioned, it can be done w/o replacing it but you MUST do it correct or you will burn out your ring/pinion.

Cheers.

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PostPosted: June 29, 2018, 11:18 pm 
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C10CoryM wrote:
First things first: Make sure your differential vent is not plugged. There is a vent somewhere to prevent pressure building while the fluid/air expands with heat. If it's plugged, and they often are, it will cause enough pressure to blow past the seals. If you do find the vent is plugged, unplug it and then check for leaks again. Chevron seals can usually handle being over-pressured without being damaged unless they are old/hard. Replacing that pinion seal is going to be tough, if not impossible with the rear end in the car. If the pinion flange is wider than the opening (which it appears to be in the pic) you may not be able to slide it forward enough to clear the splines. Also look into the crush sleeve. As mentioned, it can be done w/o replacing it but you MUST do it correct or you will burn out your ring/pinion.

Cheers.

You might be right about the flange being larger than the opening. I guess there's only one way to find out.
I will check the breather but I think I remember filling it up few months ago and it started to leak before I even drove the car.


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PostPosted: June 30, 2018, 2:59 am 
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https://www.amazon.com/Bardahl-3119-Gear-Additive-Plus/dp/B002QET15S
I don't believe in this stuff, but some people do.

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PostPosted: June 30, 2018, 8:54 am 
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duc1098 wrote:

Thank you. I was wondering how I'm going to take the nut off without having a parking brake but an impact gun might be what I need as you said.


Get a piece of angle iron and drill two holes that match the holes on the pinion flange. The angle iron keeps everything from spinning.

I made one from a 36" long piece of angle iron and a ~20" long strip of steel. There is a hole in the end of each and the strip bolts somewhere in the middle of the angle iron. It can accommodate any bolt pattern and any diameter from a pinion flange to a flywheel. It has been very useful over the years.

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PostPosted: June 30, 2018, 9:04 am 
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horchoha wrote:
https://www.amazon.com/Bardahl-3119-Gear-Additive-Plus/dp/B002QET15S
I don't believe in this stuff, but some people do.


It's not a small leak, it leaves a puddle minutes after filling it up.

a.moore wrote:
duc1098 wrote:

Thank you. I was wondering how I'm going to take the nut off without having a parking brake but an impact gun might be what I need as you said.


Get a piece of angle iron and drill two holes that match the holes on the pinion flange. The angle iron keeps everything from spinning.

I made one from a 36" long piece of angle iron and a ~20" long strip of steel. There is a hole in the end of each and the strip bolts somewhere in the middle of the angle iron. It can accommodate any bolt pattern and any diameter from a pinion flange to a flywheel. It has been very useful over the years.


Only challenge is getting the angle iron in there in that tight space. First I have to see if I"ll even be able to get the flange out of that tight opening.


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