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Seeking recommendations on lube, sealant etc for rebuilding engines and transmissions.

I have Red Line Liquid Assembly Lube to apply to moving parts prior to the rebuild.

looking for sealant to be applied between metal cases (RTV type sealant)
A good Anti-Sieze too.

Quality products are more important than cost here within reason.

Thanks in advance.

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As an adhesive sealant, I've always had very good results from two products. One is a black sealant from Toyota and the other is called The Right Stuff. I apply these with a disposable acid brush with the bristles cut short to give them more stiffness.

For anti seize, I use Pematex brand silver, but apply it and then wipe off all excess. It's works very well with the thinnest of coats.

Tom

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Though really expensive (~$20 a tube) the stuff from Honda dealers is really good. There may be a retail equivalent but I don't know what it might be. Also, once you break the seal, plan on using all of it or tossing it out. Even after the cap is put back on, the stuff seems to keep curing from the open end down.

Best anti-seize I've used has nickel in it and is intended to prevent galling with stainless fasteners - which is real problem. It's called "Nickle-Graf"

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Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
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My local Honda dealer doesn't even carry or use their own sealant because it's too expensive. They use the retail equivalent, which is Permatex Ultra Grey.

Permatex Ultra-Copper has been my favorite for engine and transmission sealant. The Right Stuff works great, but only recommended if it's a joint that's not serviced regularly. Because it produces a very strong bond, the parts are very happy together and like to stay that way.

Ron

Hylomar.
Easiest source at a decent price is your local Harley dealer.

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Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket. I think this is the base sealent for cases and it's what I used to seal crankcases on motorcycles which you split to get the crank in and out. Airplanes also have motors that you split the crankcase on. That is a severe use. most engines have one piece blocks, but not 2-stroke motor cycles or opposed cylinder engines like airplanes and also Subaru, and air cooled VW, Porsche.

That stuff doesn't completely harden.

for anti-seize I used the the traditional "Anti-Seize" product. I think that's what it was called, I still have the same can I bought int he 70's. It's good for at least 1500 degrees or something like that...

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+1 for Permatex Aviation grade. It's a brown, thick goo that you put on with a brush (there's one attached to the lid). It tends to stay "sticky" and not form a rubber-like "gasket" but it damn sure seals. It worked on an MG... How's that for a testimonial?

I've also had good luck with the Permatex Gray RTV stuff. Our local Ford dealer supplied it to their techs for their use, I heard about it from there. Good stuff...


JDK

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Thanks for the advise guys, I remembered I have the Permatex Aluminium Anti-sieze which I used for all the suspension components and like the brush on application and it has worked great so far.

I have ordered the Permatex 80017 Aviation Form-A-Gasket, for the engine and transmission cases.

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For must of my hardware I use Loctite anti-seize. It also does a good job on SS hardware. For my exhaust studs and gaskets, I use Fel-Pro C5-a Hi- temp anti-seize. The C5-a is so good that I've used the same exhaust gasket after removing the header three different times. And the gasket still does not leak. I believe it only comes in one pound cans and you will probably have to get it at an industrial supply. Dave W

I like Yamahabond or ThreeBond 1124 for gasketless sealing.

https://www.amazon.com/Three-Bond-Sealant-Liquid-1184A100G/dp/B007TWXI1K

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The permatex ultra grey is what I use as a mechanic. It's the best all around sealer I have found. This is used when there is no gasket (or for corners when there is a gasket). The aviation goo is not that useful on modern engine IMO as it works best(only?) with paper gaskets. I also use 3Ms weatherstrip adhesive to hold gaskets in place.

I used to use permatex black silicone adhesive sealant (note: not ultra black) for engine gaskets. It works great; better than the ultra grey. However, since it isn't designed for oils I worried they would change the formula and have it not work at all. So I no longer use it on customer vehicles, but if I had a tough sealing job that other sealers were failing at I'd still use it. I've used it in the past to seal older engines that were considered impossible to keep the oil in.

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I used to use (and still use) Permatex Black for anything where oil retention is specifically required. It firms up, but never gets completely hard (stays kind of like firm rubber). It also sticks to absolutely everything, and is immune to gasoline, oil, brake fluid, antifreeze, etc. If you get it on your jeans, get used to the look - it will be there until they go into the trash.

Back when we did a lot of off-road rallying, we always carried a tube of the stuff. On one occasion, we holed the sump on my Mini, and used a big blob of the stuff, from the outside, to seal it, with a piece of thin cardboard stuck on over top to help keep crud out. You know, we never did fix that sump, and it never leaked a drop, even after years of rallying & racing (I was waaay too poor in those days to afford a replacement sump!).

On another occasion, we got a rip in our gas tank (a Ford Cortina, that time) about 2"-3" long, going over a sharp rock. We were waaay out in the boonies, with our precious fuel pouring out on the ground. Again, we pushed a blob of Permatex Black into the hole, and it sealed it. For good.

Even more amazing, IMHO, was on my 1977 Yamaha TX-500 motorcycle. That bike had about a dozen chains in the engine - they all rattled unless they were tightened once a year or so. To do so required removing the engine's left side cover and, after a few years, replacement gaskets became extinct. Instead, I started using the Permatex, and it always sealed the side case, even with no gasket at all, despite holding back several liters of sizzling hot oil, under 75-80 PSI pressure.

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Slightly off-topic, I have the perfect use for this Permatex Black. My expensive new engine, freshly rebuilt, leaks oil from somewhere along the right hand side vertical edge of the timing chain cover. Fixing it the right way would mean - ugh - removing the pan and the head... No. I'll try applying a thin coat of this stuff all along the parting line and hope for the best.

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

I suspect you'll be pleasantly surprised! Try to smear it (push it) into the gap with your finger (wear a glove, unless you want everything you own to have permanent black smears!), and it will work. The stuff's incredible. My tube (years old, now) is called Permatex Gasket Maker, and is dark brown (almost black) in color. My racing buddy & I have always referred to it as "gorilla snot".

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Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/