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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: November 14, 2017, 2:13 am 
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Joined: August 11, 2013, 6:03 am
Posts: 573
Location: CNY
Self tapping screws and a slide hammer are how I do in-place seal removals on equipment/engines.

When putting the new ones in, clean the crank nose with solvent, and wrap some electrical tape on it in a nice overlapping spiral leading from the seal surface out to the snout end. Oil the tape lightly and slide the seal over.
The tape saves the seal edge from getting cut on anything, and you just pull it off carefully when done.

You can also use a shim made from a disposable plastic SOLO style cup, wrapped around the nose and overlapping itself. Just be sure the cut edges aren't razor sharp. The cup shim method usually works best for large bore seals like a rear main.

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PostPosted: November 14, 2017, 2:55 am 
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Joined: November 11, 2013, 4:47 am
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Location: No. Nevada
Crank seals showed up early so I should have everything I need to do the service before install.
Got the cam cover off and all looks fine.
16V, bet a valve job is expensive, and I don't even want to look at the price of new cams.

But I have to say, the more I get into this the more I want to get back to my simple British cars.
For the effort I've put into this Miata so far I could have R&R'ed at least two LBC's or even pre-80's Chevies.
Just reinforces my prior thinking that any Miata/FI powered cars I build will be for sale and Alfa or Brit powered will be the keepers. :)

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