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 Post subject: miata clutch adjustment
PostPosted: November 14, 2017, 3:16 pm 
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Is anyone using wildwood master cylinders for clutch masters?. If so how did your adjustment go? I cannot get this car in gear. Brand new clutch assembly

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PostPosted: November 14, 2017, 3:35 pm 
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did you prime the master before installing? brakes/clutch will bleed just fine even w/o the cylinder primed but it can still be full of air.


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PostPosted: November 14, 2017, 3:39 pm 
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What are the bores on the MC/SC?

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PostPosted: November 14, 2017, 4:00 pm 
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hfmaxi wrote:
did you prime the master before installing? brakes/clutch will bleed just fine even w/o the cylinder primed but it can still be full of air.

no I didn't, but i have moved about 1/2 qt of fluid through the system bleeding.

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PostPosted: November 14, 2017, 4:01 pm 
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300D50 wrote:
What are the bores on the MC/SC?

Both are 3/4" . I am assuming thats what the slave is. It is new OEM

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PostPosted: November 14, 2017, 9:23 pm 
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even if you have moved that much fluid through it you could still have air in the master cylinder. I also found that my 3/4" master cylinder would overthrow the slave cylinder so I had to put a stop behind the pedal so that the slave would move the right amount.

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PostPosted: November 14, 2017, 9:39 pm 
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FieroReinke wrote:
even if you have moved that much fluid through it you could still have air in the master cylinder. I also found that my 3/4" master cylinder would overthrow the slave cylinder so I had to put a stop behind the pedal so that the slave would move the right amount.

Chris, ok I think you hit on something. So tonight I went out with my assistant, and pushed more through it and jot air out. @#@$@$%%@%@$#???!!! REALLY?!!!. Wgeres that come from? I think I got it I can push the slave back into the cylinder and push fluid back to the res. so now from a total rest position. Do you know how far that slave actually pushes?. I did start it and try 1st gear. It's like it wanted to. When I push on the pedal the slave pushes out about an 1" or so but will not go back as far as alllll the way in, like if you push it in with your hand.

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PostPosted: November 14, 2017, 10:30 pm 
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Now with the system closed, presumably bled i can pull the fork back and push the fluid back into the res. then push on the pedal and its weak by hand until the slave pumps up. and the slave only returns like 1/2'. not all the way back to rest. is this new slave junk?

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PostPosted: November 15, 2017, 7:19 pm 
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Last night I saw a video on clutch bleeding. The guy took the slave and held it in a C clamp. so the piston couldn't move, then bled the master as normal. I did this today. YEAH it worked!!.. HA!. fooled you, it did not :BH:. I think its time to buy a new slave. Its like it doesn't push hard enough on the fork to release the pressure plate. Ok I know its not doing that. open for ideas guys.

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PostPosted: November 15, 2017, 7:41 pm 
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How are your lines ran and what size are they? I never had issues with a clutch bleed until owning a Spridget. They used 1/4" line and the master cylinder can't move enough fluid in one pump to push the air bubbles past the high spot where the line runs across the firewall.

Found a vacuum bleeder gets a decent amount out but for the last bit you always need to get a helper to pump and hold the pedal while you crack the fitting where the line attaches to the master cylinder.

Might be worth trying something similar.

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PostPosted: November 15, 2017, 8:47 pm 
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a.moore wrote:
How are your lines ran and what size are they? I never had issues with a clutch bleed until owning a Spridget. They used 1/4" line and the master cylinder can't move enough fluid in one pump to push the air bubbles past the high spot where the line runs across the firewall.

Found a vacuum bleeder gets a decent amount out but for the last bit you always need to get a helper to pump and hold the pedal while you crack the fitting where the line attaches to the master cylinder.

Might be worth trying something similar.

Good question. My line is the same as my brake line. -3an i think. It fits right on the factory slave. Last night i was on Miata forums and this is a very common problem. Here is the kicker, no one ever finished a thread to say how they fixed the problem. Unbelievable. I also watched a couple you tube on Miata fork movement and they all show the slave in a full retracted position, moves forward about 1or so, and back again. my slave doesn't do that. It pumps up like a brake, moves about an 1' and back but not full retract. I can pull it back by hand at least an inch. its like this thing needs a return spring. Maybe the wildwood master doesn't work like the factory master. IDK.

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PostPosted: November 15, 2017, 11:24 pm 
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Looking at a 99 shop manual, the diagrams (sect 5-10) show the clutch, trow-out bearing, pivot arm and slave cylinder all directly connected. The fingers on the clutch cover are your return spring. If you are able to to move the pivot arm much at all (excessive slop), then your trouble is probably in the bell housing.
1. Bad throw-out bearing
2. Bad clutch cover (fingers weak or worn)
3. Something with the pivot arm or it's fulcrum point
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PostPosted: November 16, 2017, 9:20 am 
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waltj wrote:
Looking at a 99 shop manual, the diagrams (sect 5-10) show the clutch, trow-out bearing, pivot arm and slave cylinder all directly connected. The fingers on the clutch cover are your return spring. If you are able to to move the pivot arm much at all (excessive slop), then your trouble is probably in the bell housing.
1. Bad throw-out bearing
2. Bad clutch cover (fingers weak or worn)
3. Something with the pivot arm or it's fulcrum point
Walt

Thanks Walt, The pressure plate and fingers make sense for the return. I am going to see if the fork came off the pivot somehow today, and probably by a new slave. This clutch has zero miles on it.

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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 2:57 pm 
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a.moore wrote:
How are your lines ran and what size are they? I never had issues with a clutch bleed until owning a Spridget. They used 1/4" line and the master cylinder can't move enough fluid in one pump to push the air bubbles past the high spot where the line runs across the firewall.

Found a vacuum bleeder gets a decent amount out but for the last bit you always need to get a helper to pump and hold the pedal while you crack the fitting where the line attaches to the master cylinder.

Might be worth trying something similar.

Do you remember how much bigger of line you went to for that clutch. I think this is something I need to try. Right now it’s brake line size. What is that -3an?

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PostPosted: November 25, 2017, 11:57 am 
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I use 3/16" / 3AN everywhere. I would not go larger. I think it makes it worse.

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