I'm splitting this off from the Longitudinal transaxle thread because I want to go into more detail about this and not ruin that thread.
I said "Regardless of what you find in the VW/Audi world, making it run outside the donor car is the limiting factor.
Slappynuts said "Easy as pie, I specialize in these engines.If anyone has any questions, go ahead."
"For the drive by wire cars, all you need to do is plug in the engine side of the harness to the ECU, and then hook up the power ground, K line and the 6 wires for the throttle pedal. Its not a big deal at all. That will get it running. Ideally you will need a few more simple things hooked up as well. This is in case you want to save a couple hundred bucks at the expense of an afternoon. "
"No, all the engine sensors are one harness that attaches to the big plug on the ECU (very similar to the ford ecoboost packages). The big plug is all engine sensors and outputs. There is about 10 wires that need to be hooked up from the small plug depending on if you plan to use the cluster or not. The ecu is very similar to this, and this is what the harness will look like. The difference will be that you will still be able to use a VW cluster if you want. "
"I have done a few Nissan engine swaps, and it is very similar. In the case of the VW engine, you will need to add 6 wires for the DBW pedal and code out the immobilzer in the ECU (I do a couple of these a week, so its not a big deal). What you get with this is a wideband ECU with awesome data logging and tuning capabilities. The last car I street tuned with a stock longblock and upgraded turbo made 415whp using E85 on a dynojet. Weeeeeee
"
There are so many cool new engines that put out a lot of hp NA but I keep being told you can't use them for swaps because they need to see input from X sensor or Y sensor so you can't use them outside. VW is one of those companies and engine families that I'm told it won't work with and then along comes Slappynuts.
My '04 Honda S2000 engine only requires that I keep the key & sensor package to be able to start and run it. There is also a minor mod you can do to the ecu to eliminate the anti-theft.
I'd looked into the GM & Ford worlds because they sell standalone engine/ecu/wiring packages and found they were mostly V8 or turbo engines.
A little further digging shows that many are using HPTuner to get rid of VATS & the rear O2 sensor (although I'm not sure why you need to get rid of the rear O2 sensor, especially if the car has to be made street legal) and are able to use a variety of GM, Ford & Dodge engines.
HPTuner is pricey and they have some sort of "credits" system to get even more money from you.
The picture below is the Bosch ecu that Slappy posted and shows the engine wiring harness plug in and the chassis plug in. Interestingly the Bosch ecu can't be tuned by HPTuner.
So Slappy we simply don't need to hook up the chassis plug at all to make the VW/Audi engines work?
Does anyone know if GM or Ford would be that simple?
Well I mean as long as you keep the key & sensor someplace intact?
At least on GMs the super high pressure fuel pump for Direct Injection appears to be mounted on the engine. I'm guessing it's just the standard fuel pump to get the gas to the high pressure pump.
Here is an interesting read on a V6 into a Miata and this thread very clearly illustrates why you want to load your pictures directly into the Locost forum and not use a 3rd party system with linking.
http://www.mazdatalkforum.com/viewtopic ... 0efd30af11