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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: December 1, 2018, 1:02 am 
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i got the motor out yesterday, now comes the part where i have to outsmart the idiot that decided to leave out the woodruff key in the crank, so along with that i will build the motor stronger, faster and a little less boosty.

the plan is to use a cosworth timing sprocket on the crank with the keyway machined into it and cut a similar keyway in the crank, in addition i will use the dreaded friction washers on the camsthat should stop the [Fatherless Child] slipping!

now we come to the crank pulley, i do not think that one woodruff key will hold the pulley to the crank so i plan to add some round pins located like keys in three positions as i have read that the supercharger load will sheer the woodruff key on LS cranks and this is the accepted method of fixing it.

this may take some doing as my pulley is aluminum and the crank is cast but if the crank gets a keyway i can make a jig to do my drilling and a sacrificial mild steel collar over the crank so the drill stays straight then remove the collar and replace it with the pulley and drill it again with the jig, lining the jig up each time with the keyway. maybe i will see if i cant use an iron pipe fitting for the collar if it is similarly as hard as the crank.

i have ordered some parts, the cylinders are in very good condition and round, i will just give them a very quick hone, so standard bore forged pistons from wisco and some "H" beam forged rods, all to be balanced, the motor is not going to be a screamer but it is blown so heavy duty is best.

the bearings are perfect and show very little to no wear on the mains and rods but those idiot ford engineer couldn't design a block with a straight crank bore so it may be mix and match on the mains but again its blown so i could just install .001 oversized bearings to get the oil film up as a cushion against detonation, clevite do make them.

the block needs some work with a die grinder and a file to deburr it and chamfer the oil returns then a good cleaning.

we will see if the bearings when installed in the new rods have the right cleaences as they are like new but in a different rod may not be correct.

the head is not so good with 16 bent valves so a reconditioned head was sourced at a cost of $299.00 with cams and lash pre set, although, the cams will have to be removed to install it

i will be fitting a head stud kit and a main stud kit from ARP.

i have ordered an intake gasket from burton in England as it will save me having to make one because the manifold has changed because of the blower and the stock rubber seals won't work.

the timing chain and guides are in very good condition so i will keep them but the tensioner will be changed..

the idea is to build a very strong bottom end that will not fail under boost

anyone who has dabbled with duratecs and could offer some tips. please chime in.

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PostPosted: December 1, 2018, 2:18 am 
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supercharger load will sheer the woodruff key on LS cranks and this is the accepted method of fixing it.

Uh, what?
I thought LS was Chevy but you seem to be talking Ford? :?

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PostPosted: December 3, 2018, 12:07 am 
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I bought an almost-new GM V6 (3500?) a few years ago for like $50 after the key sheared off on the drive shaft. The drive shaft was dinged enough that a new key wasn't gonna fix it w/o cutting a new slot. Oh, and a couple of the pistons had smiles on 'em, the valves bent, etc.

Have to wonder what auto manufacturers are thinking with that key / half moon thing?

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PostPosted: December 3, 2018, 9:13 am 
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geek49023 said
"Have to wonder what auto manufacturers are thinking with that key / half moon thing?"

Every single little engineering change must be approved by purchasing. A beam counter just save .03 cents in machining cost Vs milling the full length of the crank nose for a sq. key.

And he got a bonus at the end of the year!

DaveW


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PostPosted: December 3, 2018, 9:54 am 
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davew wrote:
Every single little engineering change must be approved by purchasing. A beam counter just save .03 cents in machining cost Vs milling the full length of the crank nose for a sq. key.

And he got a bonus at the end of the year!

DaveW


Having once been the pastor for the SVP-Finance of Ford Mo Co (after he retired) I can tell you that I've met those bean counters. And the senior engineers (one came over to Fords from NASA). The Ford people told me that they know every problem on every vehicle before they're produced... and yes, it's always a cost thing.

Tim

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PostPosted: December 3, 2018, 10:24 am 
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*Mazda engineers :wink:

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PostPosted: December 13, 2018, 5:15 pm 
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as the title says i'm trying to outsmart the ford engineers but that is proving more difficult than at first thought.
there are two ways to get a timing sprocket, 1. from Burton Performance which is the outlet for Cosworth parts, the other is from Massive here in the U.S.A.but this is a smaller key than the Cosworth one.

i chose to get the Cosworth sprocket from Burton in England, thinking if it was good enough for Cosworth then it should be good for me, alas there is only one of these sprockets in existence outside of an engine, it was on the shelf at Burtons so i purchased it and they sent it by mail. the royal mail did their part of the journey to Los Angeles but then the USPS took control, well it was sent to Utah then to Rochester New York which is typical of the USPS but after several hours on the phone with hold times of 2 hours it was finally sent to Las Vegas Nevada and then to Kingman Arizona then to my local office so now i have it !!!!

i chose the 5mm key instead of the 3mm because i would be driving the blower off the crank pulley which must be located on the crank to obtain the correct ignition timing and to stop it turning under load so the larger key was used.

all i had to do was get a keyway cut in the snout of the crank, HAHAHA!!!it took me visits to 4 engineering companies before i got a price of under $400.00 but i did find someone to do the job of cutting the keyway in the crank plus the front pulley for $200.00 so i now wait to see if i will have a usable crank and pulley.

it is not surprising that no one offers a supercharger kit for the 2.3 duratec as to correct the missing crank keyway oversight of the Ford/Mazda engineers is a nightmare but if not done the supercharger load on the front pulley will undo the crank bolt.

i pity any Ford/Mazda owner with this engine in their car that has an AC compressor lock up as the compressor is driven in the same way as my supercharger with the added torque of a much larger pulley to turn the crank pulley backwards in relation to the rotating crank. (AC not working so now all my valves are bent and my pistons are damaged)

the rest of the engine is progressing nicely, the block is bored to my Wisco pistons and my forged H beam rods are waiting to be balanced, the King race (black) bearings are here and i have a reconditioned head with valves and new cams

i have ARP studs for the mains and head with ARP rod bolts, i have deburred the block as per the cosworth instruction manual but prior to assembly i will have the rotating and reciprocating parts balance.

at this time i am looking at oil pumps, Melling M330 is the stock pump but the Mazda 6 pump looks bigger, part # M352, if anyone has looked at this i would appreciate a heads up as i would like to increase the bearing clearances a little to give more of an oil cushion.

has anyone ever looked at using an inlet cam for the exhaust side of the engine, yes i know the slot in the end of the cam is wrong but i could set the timing with a dial gauge and degree wheel as the lift and duration are both larger than the stock exhaust cam and as with most supercharged engines would probably benefit form more exhaust cam or at least some advance and a bit of retard on the inlet but who knows, i'm flying by the seat of my pants here.

i have made one more consession to the god of supercharging in that i chosen a colder copper tipped spark plug in the Autolite 103

right from the outset, this was a backyard build using mostly stuff i had or was given for a few bucks like me using the factory PCM and a second hand supercharger which exceeded the mechanical limits of the motor, or at least the Ford/Mazda engineers and i must be honest, i never though that it would be so powerful or successful and would have recommended this route to performance to others had it not been for the crank key issue but i believe that when this hurdle is crossed all will be good.

just remember that should anything driven by the crank belt lock up you could destroy the valves, ( power steering, alternator, AC compressor etc )

the forged pistons, rods and the stud kits will only be installed because i had to take the crank out of the motor as apart from nicks in the pistons from kissing the valves all was good and with a little clean up could be reused, especially when you consider that during tuning the PCM i had an A/F ratio of around 18-1 and 5 plus grand on the motor, all that happened was it burned away the center electrodes of the plugs which caused the coil to break down and loose spark.

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PostPosted: December 24, 2018, 2:56 pm 
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so i started the rebuild.

first off, the crank main bearings are in a girdle, the girdle does not fit in the block, it came out of the block but it won't sit back on the registers and using the studs to pull it down won't give a good torque wrench reading, i've tried that and the setting is 45 nm. and 180 degrees.

as you are doing the last 90 degrees you can feel it step in and the nut goes loose, on removal, the steps/registers on the girdle have burrs on them.

i have carefully removed the burrs and now intend to warm the block and put the girdle in the freezer with the bearings installed so that it shrinks a bit, when i install it i will do it up cold then loosen it t, we don't want it expanding under torque, allow it to warm up to the block temperature and do it up to torque.

this is a real problem as i need to take the girdle off and on to measure the bearing clearences.

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PostPosted: December 24, 2018, 9:52 pm 
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Still as an engineering exercise I have to wonder what kind of torque one can handle w/ just the friction / clamping of the original snout bolt setup....

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PostPosted: December 25, 2018, 8:52 am 
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All the trouble you are having makes me appreciate my boat anchor pushrod carb motors that much more.
Still hope you get it sorted.

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PostPosted: December 31, 2018, 5:34 pm 
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Tim,

the friction washers that ford/mazda use seem good enough to hold a crank pulley on with a bolt torque of 100nm plus 90 degrees but as soon as you put a load on the pulley that it was not designed to carry in the direction of "undo" then you have a problem, once the bolt tension is released the load of the camshafts is exerted on the crank sprocket and away goes the cam timing and wether the bolt completely undoes or just looses clamping pressure then the friction washers are doing nothing as the sprocket and the trigger wheel move out of phase and kiss good night to your engine

MV8,

yes i know what you are saying but tuning any engine reaches a point of beyond the mechanical structure of the engine, this is where i am at the moment, i just have to find suitable ways to work around the short comings of the design.

back in the early sixties i ran a go kart with a triumph twin at the drags, on 50% nitro with a shorrock blower, having blown the cylinders right off the crank case i developed a tie down kit to hold the top half of the engine to the bottom, with 15 lbs. of boost and 50% it then stayed together, a good work around.

information about oil pumps.
it would appear that the 2.3 duratec with VVT uses a bigger oil pump than the ranger unit and is a direct replacement.

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PostPosted: January 18, 2019, 6:20 pm 
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i am now in the process of building the engine,

first off i deburred the oil returns in the block with a die grinder and also deburred the main bearing pads on the block and the main girdle.

i gently deburred the registers for the main girdle to allow the girdle to "slip" into position easier.

next the block was bored to 88mm and hot tanked to clean it, the oil galleries could not be opened as ford use avdel plugs which are not available so we are hoping they are clean, there was no debris in the motor when i stripped it.

the rods and pistons were then assembled this was a bit tricky as the wrist pins would not go into the small ends of the rods and required honing to suit.

the piston rings were then installed and filed to fit for a blown engine, well all but one piston as the oil scraper ring was broken in the box but a phone call to wiseco had one the next day and they were installed, these need to go in the block before the crank and girdle as access is restricted by the girdle and were fitted with arp bolts and new king bearings

next the mains, i polished the crank to ensure that there were no burrs on the journals, then a trial assembly with standard size king bearings but that was a washout due to the requirement of ford for selective bearings which are not available and the standard size gave too much clearance so the original bearings were reinstalled, its a good job that i noted their position before removal, this is a common thing with duratecs apparently and the old ones were in good shape.

there are no tangs on the bearings to locate them so they have to be installed using the factory measurements from the end of the block for the top halves and from the end of the girdle for the bottom halves

this was all fitted with arp studs and a torqe applied to the girdle to hold it level with the rear of the block as the nuts are tightened

next, the focus oil pump was installed together with the pickup tube, the tube required modifying to attach to the bigger focus pump due to the angle of the pump flange and hole spacing and took some messing with to clear the sump, the screen on the pickup fell out while i was bending the pipe so i silver soldered it back in place to prevent it falling out when in use.

the oil pump drive was next so the crank sprocket complete with friction washer was installed after cleaning and degreasing the end of the crank and locked in place with the new key and machined groove in the crank, the bigger oil pump still located the sprocket in the same place and the original bolts were plenty long enough to mount it.

so there, i have a complete bottom end with a little effort that should stand up to the boost.

it took a lot of fettling to get it together the way i wanted it but should be good, the only other thing was that i got the temperature in the room up to the required 20degrees C prior to taking any measurements and applying any torque to bolts

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PostPosted: January 19, 2019, 8:26 am 
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it took a lot of fettling
And no one can "fettle" quite like a Brit... :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: January 22, 2019, 6:45 pm 
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so i get to fitting the timing cover, this required cleaning the RTV off and giving it a thorough washing, well what do you know! the oil seal in the almost new timing cover went all wobbly from the solvent, mineral spirits, never mind, i have one in the gasket set.
yeah thats what i thought ha f'in ha!!! the new seal was fitted to the timing cover and installed on the block with RTV no gasket here, when i go to fit the pulley , it pushed the seal into the engine so i took it all off and cleaned it again.
before fitting i tried the seal in the timing cover, well i can push it through with my thumbs and it did not want the pulley pushed through the middle as it appeared to be old and dry, who knows how long this seal has been sitting around.

after a lot of research i discovered a chrysler seal part # duralast 223750 was what i wanted si drove to my nearest autozone 100 miles away and got the seal, this one is metal cased and not rubber cased so i will loctite it in place, its a better fit anyway.

so if you have a 2.3 duratec that needs a front crankshaft seal get this one #223750 from autozone.

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PostPosted: January 25, 2019, 3:47 pm 
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well its back together, now all i have to do is fit the flywheel and clutch.

no thats not all i have to do, the fuel gauge reads full before its full and empty before its empty because i have too short an arm on the sender unit and the throttle cable has had a fray in it for 5 years now so that has to be replaced and i want to check the weld around the wide band bung.

then i've got to poke it all in the hole and sort out the wiring because i have several plugs on the harness that no longer do anything, the EGR valve, the thermostat, the intake manifold flaps and solenoid and the ac pressure switch.

i still havn't come up with an alternative position for the knock sensor as its original location was picking up noise from the blower and retarding the timing, it was in the block right under the intake manifold.

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