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PostPosted: February 12, 2021, 11:13 am 
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300D50 wrote:
For anything Ford and modern, get a copy of Forscan to do the immobilizer stuff.

Cheap, and does what it says on the tin.


Agreed, Forscan, while a bit daunting at first, can do quite a lot with Ford systems.
Did some minor reprogramming on my wife's Flex & my former F150. There's some that can be done in 'easy' mode & it's just toggles on/off type things. Advanced mode requires editing the code & definitely takes some care to do properly. Helped that there was an extensive thread on the F150 forum on the subject when I had my F150. Couple guys were digging deep into the code & adding top-trim features to lower trim trucks.

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PostPosted: February 12, 2021, 1:31 pm 
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I used Forscan to "activate" the GPS nav system (several hundred $$ option) in my 2015 Escape. I did have to modify my BT code reader to get both low and high speed codes. I never did figure a way to activate the DRL. I doubt a nav system would be in your car though, Maybe yes?

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PostPosted: February 12, 2021, 1:38 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
I used Forscan to "activate" the GPS nav system (several hundred $$ option) in my 2015 Escape. I did have to modify my BT code reader to get both low and high speed codes. I never did figure a way to activate the DRL. I doubt a nav system would be in your car though, Maybe yes?

I used it to reconfigure the running lights on both cars. Foglights as DRLs on both & changed the lane change blinker on the F150 to 5 blinks (7 with a trailer connected).

Sorry for the thread-drift....back to Econoline engine swap talk. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: February 13, 2021, 2:54 pm 
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You might look at the GM "High Feature" V-6. Available as either transverse or Longitudinal, it's a 60* v6 so narrower than some in spite of the DOHC setup. Aluminum block & heads. I drive a 2012 Equinox which is a little over 4K lbs, and that little motor (3.0 liters) steps right out! Recently drove out to Oregon from Missouri towing a flat bed trailer (11-1200 lbs), came home carrying an almost complete Miata based Locost... could hardly tell the difference over the Cascades and the Rockies. Very impressive little powerplant! Available in 2.8 to 3.65 Liters.

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PostPosted: February 15, 2021, 11:20 am 
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The LFX is a stout motor. Have seen a few swaps into Miatas & it's a cheaper option than the LS/Coyote.
IIRC, the Camaro or ATS were the preferred options, as they had 3-pedals from the factory.
Otherwise, just about any of the 6AT options would likely suffice. Malibu, Impala, Camaro, Equinox, Traverse, Colorado all had it as an option IIRC.

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PostPosted: February 16, 2021, 6:20 pm 
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Please forgive the ignorant questions guys, but I struggle mightily with electronics.. If I did source the GM V6 High Feature engine and Automatic tranny from say a 2012 Equinox/Colorado/Impala/etc, what is to be done to trick it into running in a 60 year old Econoline? Does someone make/mod my needed engine harness? Is the tune/reflash on the ECU easy? Getting around the anti-theft stuff has been figured out? Years ago I put a GM "Ram Jet" 350 crate engine in my F100... it was a 4 wire hook up... so easy!

If I go forward with this, I'm almost certain to go V6/Auto (easier than the 4cyl to get the power I want)... I just need to learn about the various hurdles of a given year/model donor to get it to run in the old truck.

:cheers:

--ccrunner

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PostPosted: February 16, 2021, 7:13 pm 
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"If I did source the GM V6 High Feature engine and Automatic tranny from say a 2012 Equinox/Colorado/Impala/etc, what is to be done to trick it into running in a 60 year old Econoline? Does someone make/mod my needed engine harness? Is the tune/reflash on the ECU easy? Getting around the anti-theft stuff has been figured out?"

I'm afraid I can't help you there. I commented on the High Feature as a (Very) satisfied owner. I learned about cars in the fifties and sixties when things were MUCH simpler, and I'm very much averse to Ones and Zeroes. There must be a source of knowledge on this subject somewhere out there for those like us! :roll:

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PostPosted: February 16, 2021, 8:10 pm 
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CC - i bought my supercharged Ecotec wiring and computer from CBM motorsports in California. Their products and services are excellent

If it were me, i would start with an engine management system and pick the engine that it works with. Fitting a big 4 cyl vs V6 or even a small V8 will have the same challenges. If you can get a good "plug and play" wiring/ecu combo, you can just focus on the fabrication aspect of things.


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PostPosted: February 16, 2021, 8:23 pm 
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I cannot give any specific advice. Definitely you will need the PCM and the engine wiring at a minimum unless you trash it all and go a 3rd party PCM, an even bigger task. Maybe grab the ignition key and the associated theft deterrent devices. Here is where it may be good to just buy a donor vehicle. Do a lot of research. Find someone who can program out some of the functions such as EGR, the security system, and emissions related things. Modern vehicles are very complex. I am going thru the wiring needs of a '95 Camaro 3.4l V6 and 4l60E trans into my MGB GT. It is an older system than one you'll find in a high value system, and I suspect an easier task. It is not an easy task for a novice to sort out by themselves. Try doing a wider search for websites where people have done a swap with the engine you want. It may be specific to the year of the donor.

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Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

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PostPosted: February 16, 2021, 10:24 pm 
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ngpmike wrote:
I learned about cars in the fifties and sixties when things were MUCH simpler,
I'm a little newer than you Mike. I'm from the 70's and 80's, things were still simple until the mid 80's, then there were throttle bodies, O2 sensors, and computer electronics. So I guess I'm on the fence between carbs and fuel injection. I must says wiring wise, the carb system is way simpler, now if I could find that point file and matchbook matches................

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PostPosted: February 17, 2021, 1:19 pm 
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300D50 wrote:
For anything Ford and modern, get a copy of Forscan to do the immobilizer stuff.

Cheap, and does what it says on the tin.


Could you expand on the immobilizer notion, and what Forscan does?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: February 17, 2021, 2:36 pm 
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Forscan is used for deeper diagnostic/testing/editing of options on a lot of 2000+ year Ford/Mazda vehicles.

If you have the advance license key, you can reprogram the PATS on some models, to deal with the whole "Oh crud, I don't have 2 keys!" problem, add in new remotes, turn on walkaway locking mode, add keys, delete keys, make valet keys, etc.
Also allows the re-init of the security for some models, so you can gather parts piecemeal instead of getting key+coil+pcm+immo packages.
Mind you, any PATS stuff does require physical access, and a working physical key to turn the cylinder, and you also have any "wait XX minutes" delays the hardware in the car enforces on those actions.

Valet keys have a different tip on the blanks, at least for Mazda.

I've used it on 04/06 RX-8's for key programming, and it's worked well. Buy a blank key with transponder chip, have it cut to the bit code at the locksmith or copied at the hardware store, then save the $100+ dealer fee and DIY.

Needs either a J2534 spec cable, or a good ELM style USB one to function.

Depending on the vehicle, it can also be used do things like reset airbag codes, train TPMS sensors, reload ECU/PCM as-built data (useful to change VIN in a junkyard part to match the car, or your new-builds VIN).

Really full featured, and doesn't rely on any dealer/OEM software that "fell off the truck".

I think my license was $50 for lifetime updates.


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PostPosted: February 17, 2021, 3:38 pm 
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@300D50
Thank you for that info. Unfortunately, all my donor electronics are 1994 Mustang OBDII.

Sorry for the thread hijack.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: February 21, 2021, 7:29 am 
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ccrunner wrote:
This is for a Non-Traditional build.. I'm thinking of modding a 61-67 Ford Econoline truck to suit my needs. They came stock with an inline 6 (iron), and I'd like to replace that with a little aluminum inline 4 cylinder (or V6?)/ automatic.. ...Stock, the truck is about 2500 lbs..

Why do this? I want the engine moved out of the cab so that I can have 3 seats, and I want some of the vehicle's weight moved toward the rear of the truck (they're notoriously light in the back). I want a small engine package, more power than the stock 6 can give, and I want the reliability and low maintenance of a modern engine. The truck will be used for light duty work, and will likely never see more than 1500 lbs total hauling/towing.

I really just want the torque.

Finally, I'd much prefer an auto tranny with overdrive.. there's an easy way to work this in too?

So any ideas? Am I looking at forced induction? Diesel? Will normally aspirated get me the perfomance (torque) I'm after?

As always, thanks for your insight-

--ccrunner


We used to have the van version. Technically it is a three seater. The engine cover is seat shaped and I used to ride there all the time, especially in winter since the heater box is not so great.

The engine compartment is very narrow. It would require widening for anything but an in-line.

Beam axle front with drums and leafs, plus the master cylinder is a real odd-ball. Definitely redesign to use a common oem dual circuit with remote reservoir and separate the brake pedal.

For the output goals and over drive, I'd find a late 80s F150 with a 300 six and AOD. Cams, intakes, and headers are available for this engine.

For more info on these, checkout the dawgstrip on youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbdu2q ... A7KaKBvDEg

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