With the IRS your have the choice of equal length half-shafts or centering the pinion. IIRC my offset was ~7/8". I figured moving the engine and diff, might help a small amount to balance out, a driver with no passenger. I did have to widen the tunnel to accommodate the pinion flange as it was forward of the rear bulkhead.
For a low power car, I was successful cutting and splicing the RX-7 axles with my 120V Welder. They ran without issue for over 6K miles at which time I sold the car. You can see the way I did it here:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=4145&start=37Form another comment of mine elsewhere:
Quote:
I cut a piece of splice tubing in half longitudenally so I could align the axle halfs into a Vee block to center the halfs for welding. The real splice was slid onto one of the axle pieces and the 1/2 tube was on the other. This way the splice and 1/2tube were kept centered in the vee block and the axles were centered in them. I had about .005 clearance between the axle and the ID of the splice to make this happen.
I did check runout of the finished assembly and found it to be less than 1/32". I figured that would be close enough for me as wheels, which run the same RPM, are often this much out of round.
BTW, JD did a similar thing with his Ford V8 build. He did have a failure early on. As I recall, it was because he didn't use a tube over the welded joint . He fixed it by adding one and never had a problem, even running big fat racing tires. YMMV
_________________
Chuck.
“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman
Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log:
over HEREOr my Wankel powered Locost log :
over HEREAnd don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766
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