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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 18, 2016, 1:59 pm 
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KB58 wrote:
ARWdohcV8 wrote:
...So I went the afternoon of the previous day and did all of the tedious and time consuming work iN the enine bay. When we showed up the next day we were only there for an hour and we were done...

Or you show up the next day and the engine's gone with a note on the hood, "thanks for disconnecting everything for me!"


Or just the opposite, you pick your part, go to the office get a bright red dye pen and write the number the office gives you all over your part.
Come back the next day and if you are lucky the part is already out sitting in the office waiting for you because some guy removed because he didn't know what the dye pen was for.

Al

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PostPosted: March 18, 2016, 4:46 pm 
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we just finally had pick and pulls legalized again in CT a couple years ago.. most yards are slow to catch on. as of now, there are only three statewide that will let you.. and none of them let you bring jacks or jackstands in..

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PostPosted: March 18, 2016, 5:03 pm 
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1055 wrote:
as of now, there are only three statewide that will let you.. and none of them let you bring jacks or jackstands in..


I used to go to a LKQ u-pull lot in Durham (aka "Derm"). It was helpful for some things, ie, taking pics of in-place assemblies and finding that rare nut/bolt/part, in general I didn't like it.

Why? Well, first I had to haul my tools around 1/2 a mile back to the car I was working on. I had to count on having a gantry available, and oh yeah, how do I do that while dealing with a wheelbarrow full of tools? Course nasty gravel under the cars, which were jacked up high enough so you can get under 'em but that made 'em really high to pull stuff out the top. No power tools allowed. Curfew was 6 pm, but damn it's hot in NC during the day, ya know? Oh, and these weren't LKQ's first-line junkers, they were pretty much older "cash for clunkers" vehicles where the engine was junked prior to setting 'em back there.

I ended up figuring that I was making about $5/hr pulling parts somedays.

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PostPosted: March 18, 2016, 5:59 pm 
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Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
We used to have a really cool junkyard local to me that used to do a sale every spring where anything you could carry out the gate was $75. My brother and I talked the guy into letting us drag stuff out for $150 one year, so we built a trailer with a Ford 9" and a front Dana 44, then piled a bunch of stuff on an old hood. The guy came out back and saw what we were doing and told my brother to put down the transfer case before he changed his mind. The next year there was a tbird with a 5.0 in the yard, complete car. I went up front to ask if it was ok to drag heavy stuff out for double price again. The guy looked up from the counter and started to say yes, until he recognized me. A few years later and the cash and carry sale was $100, but I brought a pack frame and got the rear diff, spindles, brakes, steering, pedals, etc for my locost all in one trip. My brother and I spent most of the day packing tools and equipment in and the (new) owner was watching and wondering what we were up to. The nearest Pick-n-Pull is 2.5 hours away, but I've always liked going there and scrounging for parts, especially when I have the whole day and my brother to help me. My transmission came from there on a 1/2 price weekend, as well as a few engines and lots of other random bits and pieces. That place used to be really good, but now they nickle and dime you for every nut and bolt attached to whatever you're buying and the price ends up way higher than what the board says it should be, plus they charge a core on almost everything now.
Kristian

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PostPosted: March 19, 2016, 12:51 am 
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Went to my local P&P today looking for Ford EDIS ignition parts.
Found them, but they are over $80.00 with the core charges.
Yah, core charges on solid state electrical items! :roll:
I can buy the same parts for $50.00 on feeBay with free shipping, and not get my hands dirty.

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PostPosted: March 19, 2016, 1:00 am 
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KB58 wrote:
ARWdohcV8 wrote:
...So I went the afternoon of the previous day and did all of the tedious and time consuming work iN the enine bay. When we showed up the next day we were only there for an hour and we were done...

Or you show up the next day and the engine's gone with a note on the hood, "thanks for disconnecting everything for me!"


:BH:


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PostPosted: March 23, 2016, 12:49 am 
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Not really wanting to start another thread but wondering if we have a list of engines that have the majority of their bulk behind the axle center-line?
Could originally be rear or front engine.
Looking to replace a VW Bug drive-train with more power and RPM.
The lighter the better.
Simpler electrics are better too.

Have been looking at bike engine but car is easier.

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PostPosted: April 2, 2016, 10:24 am 
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RichardSIA wrote:
Not really wanting to start another thread but wondering if we have a list of engines that have the majority of their bulk behind the axle center-line?
Could originally be rear or front engine.
Looking to replace a VW Bug drive-train with more power and RPM.
The lighter the better.
Simpler electrics are better too.

Have been looking at bike engine but car is easier.


Could you explain a bit further? Still looking to remain rear engine?


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PostPosted: April 2, 2016, 11:23 am 
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The lighter the better.
Simpler electrics are better too.


I don't know if you can easily find anything lighter than the original 'Bug' motor, but for ease of swap the best that comes to my mind would be a Subaru or the old Corvair. The Corvair would also get the nod for "Simpler electrics". The 'Vair' engines spin "The Wrong Way" so some transaxle mods are needed to use the VW trans, or you could uses the whole Corvair drivetrain. The Subie driveline would give you a 5 or 6 speed transaxle, but with the engine behind the axle you would need to reverse rotation. This appears to be doable as someone (not sure who) does have a fix for the Subie-to-Beetle swap.

Good Luck! :cheers:

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PostPosted: April 2, 2016, 11:36 am 
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ngpmike wrote:
Quote:
The lighter the better.
Simpler electrics are better too.


I don't know if you can easily find anything lighter than the original 'Bug' motor, but for ease of swap the best that comes to my mind would be a Subaru or the old Corvair. The Corvair would also get the nod for "Simpler electrics". The 'Vair' engines spin "The Wrong Way" so some transaxle mods are needed to use the VW trans, or you could uses the whole Corvair drivetrain. The Subie driveline would give you a 5 or 6 speed transaxle, but with the engine behind the axle you would need to reverse rotation. This appears to be doable as someone (not sure who) does have a fix for the Subie-to-Beetle swap.

Good Luck! :cheers:


http://www.subarugears.com/

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PostPosted: April 2, 2016, 11:43 am 
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Thank you, Jack. That's the one I was trying to remember.

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PostPosted: April 2, 2016, 11:46 pm 
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I need to end up rear engine.
I was hoping one of the newer drive-trains might work since so many of the newer cars appear so short at each end.
Not a real fan of the Bug engine and the Corvair is probably a bit too long as well as weight too far back.
Hoping to move the weight a little further forward with a drive-train that is nearer to the axle center line.

What I've had a chance to look at in the salvage yards so far tend to be very tall and ridiculously complex.
Will probably end up bike engine.

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PostPosted: April 3, 2016, 12:50 pm 
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RichardSIA wrote:
I need to end up rear engine.
I was hoping one of the newer drive-trains might work since so many of the newer cars appear so short at each end.
Not a real fan of the Bug engine and the Corvair is probably a bit too long as well as weight too far back.
Hoping to move the weight a little further forward with a drive-train that is nearer to the axle center line.

This describes a FWD drivetrain relocated to the rear. As far as height goes, that's true of any engine other than opposed engines or bike engines (somewhat).

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PostPosted: April 3, 2016, 1:19 pm 
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Hoping to move the weight a little further forward with a drive-train that is nearer to the axle center line.


The weight moves forward but the CG moves closer to the rear wheels so you get more rear bias, not less.

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PostPosted: April 3, 2016, 6:28 pm 
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Have you thought about the engine/transaxle from a Toyota Previa van? They are laid over somewhat.

Tom

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