LocostUSA.com

Hi everyone!

I´m building a Miata based Locost and am in the beginning of building the rear suspension ..

I´m wondering if the Miata rear uprights can swap sides, without any negative consequences?

Since the top A-arm mount is shifted to the front it would be beneficical to packaging if I could move the offset to the rear instead ...
The space could then be used for the shocks ..

Any input is highly valued!

How they should go;


How I want to use them;


And a general overview;

I did that with Midlana for two reasons. It shifts the upper pick-up point, done for the same reason as you. It also points the E-brake cables toward the rear so they have a bigger bend radius to head forward. No problem.

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

I think I would be concerned with brake torque jacking on the rear suspension?

It's been done many times. There is no change to jacking or anti-squat since the irs virtual swing arm (VSA) doesn't change. It would be a factor if it were ball joints top and bottom to where the axle made an arc with suspension travel in the side view.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Recommend for all of the above reasons. Caught me at a perfect time as the rear fenders are off for winter repairs.

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My build http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7370

That was easier than I imagined!

Perhaps my google-fu is going bad, I couldn't find any info on the topic, strange when ther's cars driving around built that way..

Thanks everyone!

Your build was a real inspiration when I started my own, so thanks for that! Strange that I never noticed you flipped sides on the uprights....

I see that you've put some miles down, have you had any problems with the rear diff mounting? I've gotten the impression that mixing hard and soft mounts can be a bad thing, and solid mounting the front while keeping the stock Miata upper bushings should really test that theory to the extreme..

Westfields come that way (time warp to 2007 posts).

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1770

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

I am another that swapped uprights in the rear. No issues yet.

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Build on

Chris
Build: NA Miata based +221 Se7en

Thanks for the compliment. Got lots of pics and happy to share.

For the diff I've had zero issues with the mounting design from a structural standpoint. It's been rock solid. The things that I have corrected since the original build is making enough room to mount a 1.8 Torsen diff, ensuring the mounting angle of the diff is 100% parallel with the transmission output, and providing a little more clearance for installation/removal.

I'll see if can update one of my posts to tell the story. Lots of lessons learned to share on that one.

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My build http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7370

Thanks for the compliment. Got lots of pics and happy to share.

For the diff I've had zero issues with the mounting design from a structural standpoint. It's been rock solid. The things that I have corrected since the original build is making enough room to mount a 1.8 Torsen diff, ensuring the mounting angle of the diff is 100% parallel with the transmission output, and providing a little more clearance for installation/removal.

I'll see if can update one of my posts to tell the story. Lots of lessons learned to share on that one.

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My build http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7370

I´m going 2002 1,8 Torsen (but started with a 1.6, which can be seen in the pics above, not much clearance to the front), and Bofi Racing poly bushings for the top .. I´ll probably go solid mount in the front, the worst that can happen is a cracked third member, which sounds unlikely .. If you haven´t had any problems with the weak 1,6 diff I guess a welded 1,8 should remain intact ...

Would love to see an update of your build thread!
One thing that has bothered my some over the years is the chart of miata uprights measurements and a-arm attachement points you posted in a excel screen shot a while back .. I tried to convert to metric (because living in Europe) and plot them in sketchup, but I couldnt get them to really match up .. I think there is something off with the rear part of the chart ..

Hi. I have a similar problem. How did you convert? and how many numbers after dot did you use? did you try online converters like https://oneconvert.com/?