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Thinking I just started my build... the current owner wants $400 for a 3.4L Chevy V6 plus tranny (assume it's the 5-speed T5).

For now, I can start mocking up the frame around those bits.

Later, I can swap the cast heads for some later-gen aluminum heads running fuel injection (ie, the stuff run on millions of GM 3400 motors).

Any words of wisdom on this setup? I'm heading out to look at it on Saturday, probably to buy it.



Thanks!

Tim

I take it your going to megasquirt, and later on swap to a modified fwd intake since the rwd intake ports won't line up with the aluminum heads.

It will be a T5, most likely a "world class" using atf rather than gear lube. The trans will be rotated 18 degrees toward the driver on the bell housing. I suggest you leave it that way if possible and modify the shifter as necessary.

There is a lot of extra weight in the rwd flywheel that should be removed.

All cams are flat tappet hydraulic, so a modified profile is cheap. The cams sold by Edelbrock are designed for heavy, factory installs and too mild.

If you decide to modify the existing heads with porting, do not remove the fins in the ports, as it will reduce the flow.

The fwd timing cover and water pump are much more compact if you want to switch.

That is correct -- I would use the aluminum FWD heads, with the FWD intakes (upper and lower if I recall correctly) controlled by MegaSquirt or something like it. Unless of course I can get the same HP cheaper using the stock iron heads. I realize that the Stalker people suggest buying a new intake and going with a Holly carb.

However, my inclination is to simply use the stock setup until I get the car on the road, unless I literally can't do anything that would get the car on the road. My belief -- stated elsewhere -- is that the car should be on the road in 2 years or less.

Thank you for the tip on the flywheel.

Yo, Tim-Geek!
Congrats on finding a donor! That's cool...

And I think the "use the stock setup" is the way to go. It's the simplest route to getting the car done, so you can start driving/testing/adjusting the 12 million things you'll want to tinker with and then you can start modding the engine!

Good luck with the build!

JDK

I hereby request that you be my patron godfather (the pizza kind, not the movie kind) and remind me that the object is to get the car "done" to the point that it is drivable... NOT to sit around pondering rivets versus screws versus glue, or the merits of inboard shocks versus traditional locost-style outside thingys.

Now, if I can only come up with a "handle" for the significant girlfriend for use here.....

Oh, the responsibility... Don't worry, Tim, I'll be with you through thick or thin (crust)... I'll give you a pep(eroni) talk from time to time...
(I'm sure there's more, but I can't stand it any longer! )

JDK

And in this case, you don't wanna know how the sausage was made, or what has gone into it?

*Sound: Airplane, going into a dive, followed by loud crashing noises*

Aaaannnnnnddddd there we go! Straight into the gutter again... It usually only happens that fast when James or maybe Kiwi Dave is around. Congratulations!!! New record, I think...

You sound like a crusty veteran now....

Yes, the intake is a two piece assembly. I installed the edelbrock intake for a fellow with an s10 around 1992, with the 4 barrel top. IMHO, your much better off with the original efi for overall performance. I've never been to the stalker forum to know what they recommend,but then I've been working on v6-60s long before Brunton was selling stalkers.

Well, I will feel free to contact you when I can't get it started!

I like efi/fuel injection. I plan on going that route no matter what.

Tim

With the motor and tranny safely in my possession today, I now turn my sights to the last of the "really big things that determine how you weld the pipes: the rear end.

(The other things seem to be motor, transmission, and of course, the width of butts that will ride in the thing.)

IF I go with a Haynes chassis -- which is +2 in width, and +4 in length I think -- it would dictate either a Miata rear set up for IRS, or an S-10 for solid axle (not to mention modifying the plans for a solid rear end).

Questions / thoughts:

IF I put a Miata rear end under this, it is my impression that the "lowest" gear ratio I can get in a stock unit is 4.10. The engine / trans had a 3.23 while in the Camaro. If I put a 4.10, I think that the first TWO gears would be functionally useless expect for use in tractor pulls and burnout contests. And by the time I find one with a "posi" (using that term generically to mean "non-open" rear end, I'm talking some real serious bucks. IF I go IRS, are there some options for a carrier / hub / pig that doesn't make me run like a stump pulling tractor, all for a reasonable ("locost") price?

If I put an solid axle in there (and putting aside the "Solid versus IRS" thing for a second) then yeah, I have to modify the Haynes plans (probably can find those plans online), or simply go with a McSoreley design, etc. Oh yeah, if I get a non-open "posi" version, it looks to be some bucks involved. The Stalker guys seem to all buy an S-10 2wd rear axle and later add the Quaif (or whatever).

Anyway, once I get this piece determined and in-house, I will then measure my butt, take a guess at the g/f's butt, and start drawing and mocking up in wood.

(please note-- she told me that she prefers "Seven of Nine." Henceforth, 7/9 will be her name here. Resistance is futile ya know.)

I initially used a Haynes plan, when I couldn't find a Merkur I started to modify the frame and it worked out quite well.
From the rear cockpit portion back, it is not much different than any other frame here, so a conversion to a live axle is very simple.
Also the 3.4 fits very well with room to spare.
The frame is 2 inches wider and 1 inch taller than book but I do not believe it is 4 inches longer.
It is a nice alternative to the many Miatas builds out there, so jump in and have some fun.

Al

The aussie miata diff is 3.636:1, as is the old 80s rwd 626.
The 6 speed miata is 3.909:1.
The aussie ratio is available new, but it isn't cheap at $575 from this source:
http://miataroadster.com/mazda/mazda_ri ... 11148.aspx

I think Rust_bucket installed one: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=12844


http://fixjunk.com/solomiata/solomiata/Drivetrain.html

With your ratios (3.75/2.19/1.41/1.00/0.72) and miata sized wheels and tires, it should be outstanding overall. You can always use the donor 1994 up miata's diff as-is, then swap it later.

With the efi intake and dis instead of a distributor, the hood line can be nice and low, without a bulge.

The entire rear axle / diff thing isn't cheap at all, any way I cut it. I think it would be cheaper to buy a junker with a good rear *something* and scrap it out, and then sell the rest! I mean, $800 for a "posi" (non-open) S-10 rear?!?!

Thank you for your assurance on the ratios. I hear many who say that their first gear is useless, and I'm trying to avoid that.

And yes, I'm noticing that my hood line will be lower if I keep EFT, either in its current form or when I make a hybrid motor out of it (FWD heads, intake, perhaps pistons, etc). But that won't happen until I've got it one the road, or unless I can't do anything else for a while.....

The 2 year clock has started.