LocostUSA.com

He put window film on the outside of the windshield? Wow. Wonder how many sweeps the wipers actually went across the film before ruining it. Kids tend to downplay their poor decisions, or leave out little details like how they never actually used the wipers.

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

Actually smartypants there are a number of companys making windshield film - for the outside. Here are a few:

https://www.tintworld.com/services/auto ... rotection/

http://www.clearplex.com/

http://www.ultimateshield.com/windshield-protection.php

This place sells the products either as precut for factory windshields, or in roll form for custom applications:

http://www.clearviewprotects.com/

I've sent them an e-mail asking if it can be applied over Lexan or similar.

This was news to me too. So I looked up Clearplex. Warrantees of 1 only year? A lot of complaints of wiper scratches. Many of the ones who said it was great, appear to live in low rain areas. It cautions about running wipers dry. Enough users said they would not apply it again, which is a red flag in my eyes. One guy who was a real supporter said it was great for Arizona sand protection but then added his car sees no rain. YMMV.

Hope it works for you.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

As I mentioned, the need for wipers on a Locost is fairly slight. But then I once undertook a three-day road rally in a vehicle with no top - and it rained most of the time. So I certainly like the idea of having something that can be used occasionally as needed. As for the warranty - it has to cover all conditions. It's not like they can say "warranty only applies to arid states". A month in some places will see exponentially more rain than a lifetime in a Locost.

I dunno. Maybe it sucks. Maybe the adhesive melts plastic. We'll just have to see.

So Clear Vue sez:

So are the Abarth bodies available to purchase? I'd been talking with Stinger about getting a body before he sold the molds and just stumbled onto this thread.
Thanks,
Chris
Petaluma, CA

I like driving in the rain sans wipers (the faster you go the better you see) but what happens to Clearplex when I apply my ten coats of RainX?

Hi guys. My partner and I (The illustrious Phongshader, some of you know him by) have recieved several inquiries about the body panels recently, so I thought that I should provide a bit of an update:

The first set of panels came out of the molds last year. They A - reminded us what a beauty this car is, B - showed us that we need to do some more reconditioning on the molds before offering them to the public, and C - showed us that the fitment on the panels and their relationship to the chassis is no simple thing. It is trickier than Locost fitments, and making the panels go together artfully and functionally will take skill.

Phongshader and I are not in the car business full time, and we've got jobs, families, mortgage holders and others to keep happy. Unfortunately this means that progress is slow on the first car. We aren't really into the real-time build diary thing, but we will release a bunch of pictures and information once we have the first car together.

Sure, sure, you say, but what about the bodys? Well as we said, they aren't ready for prime time. We don't want builders buying them, then badmouthing them due to fitment or finish issues, or finding that the project is too difficult for them where we've got unfinished bodys and frustrated people floating around. In short, we want to do the bodys, Mario Colucci and ourselves proud, and not sully the name.

So frankly we don't know exactly when of how we are going to release them to the public. At the very least, we want to have top quality panels as well as guidance ready to go out to builders whom we have confidence in to build their cars well. We may also offer the car as a roller, or as a package with chassis and suspension plans that we have confidence in. Frankly, we have no illusions that this will ever be the next big thing for one main reason - just as early lotus' were made to fit skinny, 5'-7" Collin Chapman, the Abarth was designed by and for smallish Italian people as a race car. In other words, if you're a plus-sized American person, bring a shoehorn, some Vaseline and make sure that you're on good terms with your passenger. We may be able to carve out an extra 4 inches or so over the stock seating measurements, but it'll still be tight.

So that's about it for now. I'll leave you with a picture of our proud test pilot showing off the first body set as it arrived at my shop.

You may want to look at modern FWD drivetrains and then widen the body to fit them without having to modify the drivetrain. That should make it easier for us lardasses to fit into. The drivetrain will also have an affect on the height of the rear deck. Bodies can be modified a lot easier than the drivetrain. Russ

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You meet the nicest people in a Locost Se7en.

Earlier you mention that most engines are too long for a longitudinal setup.
For a semi-"Correct" build I suggest using a reversed Fiat 850 engine and trans.
If you look trick heads are out there and since Fiat reversed engine rotation depending on displacement (Italian tax scheme) getting the gears right should be simple.
Performance will not stomp the local Cobra clone, it might only end up fairly similar to the original.
Not every car needs to be an overpowered death trap, some of us actually appreciate the art of carrying speed through the corners.
Dead 850/901's are not too hard to find and if rusted are CHEAP.
I expect their narrow track is close to correct as well.
Maybe you could post the original dimensions for research purposes?

I had a modded first year 850 Spider, not a good dragster but the engine wound up very well and cornering was far better than the simple design should have been capable of.
Remove a few hundred pounds of weight and any Driver as opposed to just lead foot hooligan should be very well entertained!

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If I must be a one-man PC free zone, so be it!

Another possibility for DOT approved glass.
Rezvani Beast roadster glass.
Not the original profile but does appear to have a nice curve and height.
I'm trying to buy one for my Dio Tipo, will report back with their response.

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If I must be a one-man PC free zone, so be it!

A good choice for drive train would be
1) fiat twin cam , 8 v head, 4 cylinder engine
2) adapter plate
3) porsche 914 side shifter transaxle, mid-engine.

this would fit the frame without widening the body.
HP with twin webers 145hp
only question is rear hub carriers and twin A arms

I can supply the drive trains

Another possible drivetrain.
Geo Metro GTI R13B.
If you use the original sideways set-up there should be plenty of room and the track may even be good at about 53".
Can be adapted to a longitudinal transaxle and the oiling system is car, not bike.

More detail, viewtopic.php?f=10&t=20418

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If I must be a one-man PC free zone, so be it!

Hi,

We talked about the Abarth on a Snowball or Melee run. I was trying to develop a microwave controlled zone microzone windshield method.

Fast forward a couple of years. The yacht glass guy in SoCal will make windshields for $2000 a piece ( you provide perimeter mold. ) $500 in lots of $100 ( big investment. )

My current project is a dimensionally correct Alfa Romeo TZ2 ( raced and beat Ferrari GTO in the 1964 Targa Florio ). The CAD for the frame is done; and I am moving to the body and glass now. There were 12 TZ2s made; plus a Pininfarina and a Bertone one off; and some prototypes. Lots of different glass variations. So I am going to try to master the art of windshield making in small numbers.

Do you have a CAD model of the windshield/s? If you forward it to me, I'll try to produce one with my new craft.

The cost of the glass is minimal. The cost of the heat is what it is ( low currently. ) How long does it take to weld up an accurate perimeter frame ( I don't know, but I do know that that process is the majority of the cost; and the tube frame of the TZ2 is 20 times more complex.)

Oh, the Yacht Glass guy in Dana Point sent some pictures of the molds they use, so much further along than a couple of years ago.

Mark