LocostUSA.com

I'll figure that part out later if I go with these axles. There isn't enough info on the site. They say full bump/loaded is 45 degrees. Only other info is the travel is 2".

I'm going to look for more torsion axles to see what I can find.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

You know I'm a newb when it comes to this so I'll ask you to draw that out for me. Nothing fancy just some lines so I get the idea of what you mean.

I'm hurt Marcus... Gotta give me some credit....

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Here's a picture of the axle style I used for my trailer. They have brackets welded on to mount them. I notched my frame rails from the top after building the deck of the trailer, dropped the axles into the notches, and welded them into the rails. I used 1.5"x3"x.125" tube for my main rails and 3500lb axles to haul my locost. Here's a link to a bunch of info from a manufacturer of these axles.

http://l.b5z.net/i/u/6149609/f/Trailer_ ... mation.pdf

Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
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Joshua, you read that wrong somewhere! I'll try to draw something tomorrow. It's the sort of thing you see on a lot of landscapers and lawn mowing guy trailers. There's the bed of the trailer and then a railing a foot or 18" higher that goes around it and that helps to keep it from sagging. They often don't really have any diagonals so when they are overloaded they still sag or bend permanently, but sort of between the legs holding up the rail.

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
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Ok. I see what you mean now. I'm just picking. Thanks for the reference, makes it easier.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

I would build a clamshell snowmobile/bike style trailer. Pull the carts out and inflate a mattress. Closed up-it Pulls nicely because you are not creating dirty air that puts drag on the trailer. Secure and dry when parked. Not to high that it is above the car. Not to long that it's going to sway your car in crosswinds or have leverage in corners

Or even a modified Teardrop camper trailer

Edit: sorry wrightcomputing, I just went back and opened your reference and ....

I think this is the route I'm going to go. Pointed nose, about 5 feet tall. Gas shocks to lift everything up.

Now when building a frame like this with nothing structural. 1/2 box or even angle iron? Just enough to give some ridgity and something to rivet the aluminum to. Needs to be light enough for the gas shocks to lift.

Might go by one of those fiberglass pool places and see how much they would charge to build a shell, box minus the bottom and front. Should be light and strong enough.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

I'm still on my trip, but I saw this and had a little time to post. Here's a pic of the Stalker trailer I took a picture of last week.

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Very nice, thanks for the picture!

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Have any of you guys used this type of axle on a trailer? They offer a 4" drop kit. Pretty pricy at a bit over $600. They also offer electric brakes as well.

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Suspens ... RD545.html

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

I've never seen an axle like that before. It doesn't really look like it has much of an advantage over a regular torsion flex axle to me. It might use a 4" drop axle, but the pictures look like the axle centerline still ends up pretty much right at your deck height, which is where mine ended up with my straight torsion axles. The only advantage I can see is that you would be able to run smaller wheels without running into clearance issues while keeping your trailer's track width to a minimum. When I built my trailer, I ended up using 16" wheels for a front wheel drive car to get clearance around the torsion arm and get the tires in close to the deck. If I go down to 15" or 14" I will have to push my fenders.out to cover them.
Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
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I need to search more for your axle. I only found ones that ran the full width of the trailer. I couldn't find any like the one in the pic you posted.

Do you have a link to the site you bought yours from? The ones I found were around $450 including the hubs and electric brakes.

With those, using the same wheels I have now on my trailer (14"). I had 8" of clearance from the bottom of frame to the ground. I've widen the trailer to 78"/6.'6". I'm trying to decide if I want to mount the wheels inboard or outboard.

I should prob post up my latest design I did. I figured since I plan on building a Locost might as well make it long enough to haul it as well. By the time the Locost is done I plan on having an older truck used for towing things. An older Chevy pickup with a 5.3 vortex would be nice.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

I'm in Canada and got my axles from a place called Princess Auto. It's pretty much the Canadian equivalent of Harbour Freight. I think I paid about $350 for a pair of 3500lb axles (a left and a right) with no brakes. Here's a set like mine on eBay.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/291030697121
The only difference I can see is that the torsion arm doesn't sit level without a load, and mine does.
Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
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Thanks for the link..

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

I only paid $500 for my single axle car trailer. If you are looking at $400 Fri the axle it might just be worth buying a used one off craigslist if you can find one and save yourself a lot of hassle.

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
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