With the ignition in the normal on position, the coil should be powered through the resistor. This reduces the voltage a bit which increases the life of the points.
When you turn your ignition to 'start' then you need the coil to be powered directly, giving it the full 12V. This allows for a stronger spark for starting. That or it compensates for the drop in general system voltage due to the starters drain. It's probably a bit of both.
Not knowing what parts you have, I can't say where you would connect them. Going on the assumption that you are not running any kind of ECU... Take a feed that is live when the ignition is on, probably from the fuse box, run this to the resistor (which should be mounted on the chassis somewhere to act as a heatsink) and then run that to the ignition coil.
For the starting circuit, there should probably be a takeoff on the starter solenoid to supply full voltage to the coil during cranking.
Do you also need help with the other side of the circuit(the distributor, points & condenser)?
This is just how I would attack the issue. Not knowing exactly what you have, it's hard to say much more. Hope it is of some help
Tom...
edit: Just found a nice diagram showing the above circuit on another forum...
http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21100