LocostUSA.com

I'm stuck, anyone know where I can get one? I'd prefer not to go the resistor route but will if I can't find one.

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Trochu Motor League

Pop the existing flasher apart and take a photo of the board inside.

You should be able to trim the sense resistor inside (small triangular file works good) if it's a flat piece of metal, and get it to stop hyper-flashing.

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Walt
06 RX-8 Shinka
04 RX-8 GT
06 325xi
Some people never have anything except ideas. Go do it.
Emissions & fuel economy haven't exactly been areas of strength for past rotary power plants, but absolutely no one with a soul has ever cared.

This would be the ideal situation, but I am electronically challenged....

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Trochu Motor League

Hm, looks different than the Hyundai ones I used to modify...

Can you snag a pic of the bottom side of the board?

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Walt
06 RX-8 Shinka
04 RX-8 GT
06 325xi
Some people never have anything except ideas. Go do it.
Emissions & fuel economy haven't exactly been areas of strength for past rotary power plants, but absolutely no one with a soul has ever cared.

You should be able to buy an electronic flasher that will work with LED lights from just about any auto parts store, probably for less than $20 too.
Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172

It would seem some of the "simplest" things on the build are tripping me up the most.

So I bought a five prone LED flasher from Canadian Tire as I couldn't find a Cougar specific unit. This is what I have:


and this is where I'm currently at

I'm no wiring guru, any thoughts? I've tried a variety of combinations, but nothing yet. Does this make sense:
-57-Black connects to prong "E";
-460 Y/LB connects to "H";
-298 P/O connects to "B";
-S252 LG/W to "I/L"; and,
-C215 LG/O to "I/L".

Any thoughts on if this flasher unit will even work or did I buy the wrong one?

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Trochu Motor League

Try this.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

fwiw, I agree w/mv8

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Thanks Miatav8! I'm looking forward to giving that a shot tonight.

Chuck, coming from the smartest guy on the board, its gotta be worth something.

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Trochu Motor League

I plugged it in as indicated and both signals work but when I switch on the hazards nothing happens, except cancelling out the signal lights if they were on. When I hold it I can feel it trying to switch and can hear faint clicks occasionally. Does it make any sense that the signals work and the hazards do not? Looking at the diagram, it would appear that the wiring overlap considerable. I put a meter on "H" and am getting 12 volts with the hazards on and zero with them off. Bad flasher? Also, if I hold the hazard switch halfway down, one light flashes but thats it.

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Trochu Motor League

Switch H and L wiring connections at the flasher. If the hazards work now but the turn signals do not, the problem is with the flasher. Hopefully your earlier connection attempts did not damage it.

It doesn’t cancel; it is actually a single flasher with two separate, isolated, parallel circuits/pathways through it. It is just a question of how many lights are connected, so having the turn signal on and hazards on at the same time just means there are parallel paths to the selected turn signal lights.

Traditionally, there have been two flashers in order to isolate turn signals from a hazard circuit where they are all connected.

Not sure what you mean by considerable overlapping wiring.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

When you test with MV8's swapping T and H wire suggestion, be sure to have the ignition on. That controls the turn signal side, not the hazard side. The hazards need to work all the time.

Are you saying that all the lights turn on but do not flash off? That "if they were on" part that confuses me".



May be just the overlap of the switch actuation inside the switch assembly and you are actually temporarily actuating on of the turn signals. I would suspect this if it is only one particular light that flashes. If so, then IMO, nothing to worry about.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I switched the wires on the H and L connections and low and behold, the hazards now work but the indicators don't.

Its possible I damaged it. Probably best that I can't find the receipt and be temped to return it because "it doesn't work".

I'll pick up a new flasher today and try again this evening.


Nope, if the turn signal was on, and I attempted to utilize the hazards, everything went off. If the hazards were turned on, the signal lights wouldn't work.


Not sure if I know what I mean either, but I'm thinking the indicators/hazards use alot of the same wiring, so if the indicators work and the hazards don't, its likely not a ground issue or something like that, its likely the flasher.

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Trochu Motor League

Probably bad flasher.


Assuming all the wiring is in place while measuring, I don't yet understand, why you have 12 V on "H" and all the lights didn't come on. Something is fishy......

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Bought a new flasher, unfortunately I'm experiencing the exact same result. Could I be doing something wrong with the grounding wire? The reason I ask, from the female plug, there are two black wires coming what would be the E connection. Currently I have them both grounded, which seems to make sense to me, but why would Ford run two grounding wires side by side to a ground, wouldn't one wire suffice?

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Trochu Motor League