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PostPosted: January 7, 2016, 2:45 pm 
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Looking over my state composite vehicle statute - It makes no mention towards distance necessary between the two headlights.

My question is, has anyone mounted their headlights in the nose cone opening itself? I was leaning towards using square lights, and aside from the obvious concern about potential air flow blockage across the radiator, I can't find a good reason not to do so.

After reviewing some of the early 90's saturns, there is no more than 14-16" between the low beams in some instances and light output on those is just fine for night driving.

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PostPosted: January 7, 2016, 5:20 pm 
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I've have yet to see it done properly. Get to it!! Haha

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PostPosted: January 7, 2016, 5:32 pm 
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I think if executed properly, it could end up really well. Be able to retain the sleek front profile without two headlights poking up over the fender.

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PostPosted: January 7, 2016, 5:49 pm 
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The center of the headlights must be at least 22 inches from the ground with the car unloaded, and mounted side by side, symmetrical to the vehicle center line and as far apart as practical. That is fed (which the inspector may push) and state.

Having said that, I think inside the shell looks great. Maybe 50-90mm servo projectors for hi.lo with a single filament!

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PostPosted: January 7, 2016, 8:51 pm 
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Historically many cars have hidden or lowered their headlights (think Fiat X19 or Porsche 928). How about some small projector type headlights mounted on the ends of stalks that retract into the nose cone or front of the engine compartment when not needed?

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PostPosted: January 8, 2016, 9:43 am 
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Contacted the DMV inspectors office about this yesterday, actually got a prompt response from them. it seems it depends on whose inspecting the car. Technically, they would be mounted at the outer limits of the cars body, thus being wide enough to accomplish the "as wide as possible" portion of the statute.

That being said, they cited the 22" federal minimum, which is going to kill me on this idea. From the best of my doodling, the top of the nose cone opening will only be about 20" off the ground to begin with.

I also though about the idea of fender mounted lights. Having driven cars with directional headlights, its nice once you get used to it. Although I would be concerned with the large amount of vibrations said features would experience, and the unsprung weight a headlight assembly would add.

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PostPosted: January 8, 2016, 10:14 am 
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You could always install temporary lights to get through inspection then swap to the nose lights afterwards and hope you don't get stopped by the fuzz.

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PostPosted: January 8, 2016, 11:53 am 
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That being said, they cited the 22" federal minimum, which is going to kill me on this idea.
Just one more way building a Book Locost in a SEMA state is a whole lot easier. We must meet the requirements of the year the car replicates. 1960=no FMMV laws, No NHTSA laws, No EPA, etc. Yeah there are some use-restrictions but what they give is a lot more than they take. This is a hobby. Very few of us actually use the car for daily transportation.

States that have not adopted this yet can make it difficult.

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PostPosted: January 8, 2016, 12:22 pm 
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Unfortunately, CT seems to be the first or second to adopt fun-ruining policies.

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PostPosted: January 10, 2016, 11:09 pm 
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1055 wrote:
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I also though about the idea of fender mounted lights. Having driven cars with directional headlights, its nice once you get used to it. Although I would be concerned with the large amount of vibrations said features would experience, and the unsprung weight a headlight assembly would add.


Based on some input from a friend of a friend that has built many Super 7 clones, I would strongly advise against this. They keep a healthy supply of front fenders ready-made and painted because they tend to suddenly and violently rip off often, depending on the nature of driving and how windy it was that day. That said, they bolted their composite fenders onto a metal frame, and the points of failure seemed to always be at the stress point of the fastener. After some research by wicky, he discovered that one is supposed to use a flexible adhesive to attach fenders to a rigid frame, like windscreen sealant (unless a like material is molded into the fender itself, which could then also be used as a mounting point).

My point is, make sure you are properly and reliably mounting your fenders before considering adding the extra weight of headlights. Even if the bouncing beams at night wouldn't bother you, it would be a difficult drive home should they suddenly disappear into the abyss next to the road in the middle of a nighttime cruise.

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PostPosted: January 17, 2016, 10:06 pm 
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I actually just finished mounting mine, not in the opening but to the nosecone with a back up plate on the inside. I like the way they turned out but I might need to add a few layers of glass to the nosecone for stiffness. Me thinks they're going to vibrate a lot


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