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PostPosted: April 13, 2015, 9:37 am 
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Is this the correct way to wire an led push button so that the light is on off controlled with the switch function? I wired it up and I got 12v to across the relay regardless of the switch being pushed in or not. Led also stayed on the whole time.

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Here is the best diagram i could find for my button.

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PostPosted: April 13, 2015, 9:42 am 
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wire the LED between switch out and ground. ... 4>6 and 5>ground
If the LED won't come on, swap 5 and 6, the polarity going to the LED isn't shown on the drawing provided.

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PostPosted: April 13, 2015, 9:53 am 
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Have you got a mfgr's P/N for your switch so I can look up the data sheet? That diagram you referenced is for a 110VAC application. It shows no dropping resistors or blocking diode, required for the LED if not installed internally.

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PostPosted: April 13, 2015, 10:06 am 
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It is a part from amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MXU ... UTF8&psc=1

The part number stamped on the housing is QN22-A.
I found this based on the part number.

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PostPosted: April 13, 2015, 10:41 am 
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OK. It is a dedicated switch for 12V DC applications. The current limiting resistor would be internal and set up for 12V. No blocking diode is required for automotive use.

Disregard the 110AC schematic you posted.

Follow Oldjack's advice. It will get you there. Wire one LED terminal between output and chassis ground if you want the light to indicate the switch condition. Reverse the 2 LED wires if you need to. Wire it between input and ground if you want the light on all of the time.

Good luck

Note that some buyers of this Amazon switch have received momentary switches and not latching on/off like described.

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PostPosted: April 13, 2015, 11:04 am 
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Like so??

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PostPosted: April 13, 2015, 12:07 pm 
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Yep.

edit>> The picture provided is a double pole single throw. ... DPST in shorthand.
You can wire power to two line terminals and have one load terminal for the LED and one for the relay.

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PostPosted: April 13, 2015, 12:44 pm 
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oldejack wrote:
You can wire power to two line terminals and have one load terminal for the LED and one for the relay.


Not quite following but that's ok. Electrical isn't my strong suit.

i think my current switch got fried too. If i do a continuity test from 3 to 4, i don't have flow regardless if the button is pressed or not.

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PostPosted: April 13, 2015, 1:24 pm 
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Never mind. ... I needed to clean my glasses, the edit is incorrect.

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PostPosted: April 13, 2015, 2:07 pm 
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Also do any of you know where to get or what the connectors are called for these small plug leads?

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PostPosted: April 13, 2015, 2:23 pm 
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Quote:
edit>> The picture provided is a double pole single throw. ... DPST in shorthand.
You can wire power to two line terminals and have one load terminal for the LED and one for the relay.


No No No. It has a pair of independent NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed) contacts. Wire the power to one of the NO contacts and the relay to the other NO contact.

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i think my current switch got fried too. If i do a continuity test from 3 to 4, i don't have flow regardless if the button is pressed or not.
Try wiring to terminals 1 and 2. It should operate opposite of terminals 3 and 4. Since the switch should be a push on/push off, you won't really notice much of a difference.

Those terminals look like they are solder terminals.

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PostPosted: April 13, 2015, 2:49 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
Quote:
edit>> The picture provided is a double pole single throw. ... DPST in shorthand.
You can wire power to two line terminals and have one load terminal for the LED and one for the relay.


No No No. It has a pair of independent NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed) contacts. Wire the power to one of the NO contacts and the relay to the other NO contact.


Wait so don't wire it like i have in the drawing?!

I have seen the connectors like shown below. I just don't know what they are called or where to get them. Trying to make it easily disconnected and as water proof as possible.


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PostPosted: April 13, 2015, 9:05 pm 
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The name for the terminals are quick connect, Faston or push-on. There may be other names. Be careful as the they are not only width, but thickness specific. It is a tradeoff between breaking the wires vs. having the terminals shaken off the switch. I prefer the soldering in an automotive application. Be sure to secure the wiring close to the switch to prevent wire breakage over time. Others have other ideas.

My comment was to correct the DPST description by Oldejack, not your wiring. I thought you had said you shorted out the contacts for terminals 3 &4. If you try the other contacts, between 1 and 2, it might be OK. Give it a try.

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PostPosted: April 16, 2015, 9:53 am 
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ok so the rewiring worked. Thanks guys.

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PostPosted: April 16, 2015, 10:40 am 
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Good News!

It is sometimes difficult, as you know, to troubleshoot wiring issues over the 'net. Fortunately it worked out this time. :cheers:

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