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I'm posting a short version of my making a proximity alarm for my car for those that haven't seen the write-up on my build log.

One of the biggest surprises the first day I drove the car was how much attention is attracts. I didn't mind the looking but the too close and touching made me uncomfortable.

Many car alarms have an optional add on proximity alarm that triggers, usually in two stages, if a person comes close or reaches into the car. I didn't need or want all the features that most car alarms have so I purchased the proximity module and put a simple system together.

The module is a DEI 508D. It is used by a lot of the mainstream alarm makers like Clifford and Viper. I was lazy and bought it locally for $69 CDN. It can be had online for half that. Other parts required are two relays and your choice of noise makers. One for a warning beep and the other to say "Get lost".

The inner and outer zones are adjustable. I've been experimenting with adjustments and mounting locations. It seems to be exactly what I wanted. At this time I'm only using a very small buzzer for the outer zone and an 80db buzzer for the inner zone. That may prove to be adequate. When the car's licensed and on the road I'll see how it works in real situations before deciding on a final installation location and alarm loudness.

Ron

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They say a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. By the time you finish the car it'll feel like you've done it on your knees.

Man, that is exactly what I have been looking for but never could find it. Do you have any wiring diagrams worked up yet? How do you turn it off and on without setting it off? I see they are about $30 US on line. Russ

Wow here is one for $15!!!! http://www4.dealtime.com/xPO-Directed-P ... -Car-Alarm

Has anyone considered adding a hidden GPS that can call you when the car has been "compromised" and tell you where it is in real time? A biz acquaintance suggested it's quite possible when he saw the car I'm building. It would be even more fun to talk to the intruder in the car. I never followed up on the suggestion, but I can if it's of interest.

Geoff

I'd like mine to just explode into a ball of flame.

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The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer

Russ, 15 bucks I would have ordered it online if I'd seen that, what a deal.

It's "blind" towards the front of the car so I'm going to put a switch by my headlights to control it.

Sorry, no wiring diagram. My mockup is the closest I have to a wiring diagram. Basically the proximity sensor has two outputs. Each goes to the coil in a relay and each relay controls whatever you want to put power to. My relays are overkill for the tiny buzzer loads but can handle horn or siren loads if I decide that I want to say "go away" more loudly.

Ron

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They say a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. By the time you finish the car it'll feel like you've done it on your knees.

Many years ago (in the points & condenser tune-up days), I'd load up a condenser and place it on the metal parts counter for the Parts Guy to match for me. I ran out of guys that would pick it up pretty quickly. That would be less destructive than the ball of flame, but probably just as illegal.

Those were the "Good Old Days", formerly known as "These Trying Times".

Geoff

It's a bit expensive, but you can use a GPS phone that constantly tracks the car, or tracks once it receives an SMS from you. Initial costs are around $200 for the phone, and then $25 a year for service. I will definitely be doing this.

The nice thing is that phones have a nice little backup system called a battery, that lets the phone continue running for days even with the main power from the car cut off. The only way to disable would be to either find the phone (easily hidable somewhere) or encase the car in a RF shield to prevent GPS/Cell signals.

i know its not as safe (talking about GPS not proximity) but why not just make hidden cutoff switches. One for ignition and one for fuel pump. On my old Wrangler trail rig i did this and stuffed them in the foam under the seat. There is no way anyone was going to find them to start the car. Hidden switches are cheaper (locost ) then $500 a year (200+25/mo)

Back on topic... i love this idea! i think i will look this up when my car is ready to roll on the street (soon! cant wait!)

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2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970

That's one of the things I'm doing, my donor car requires you to push the clutch in to start the car, even if it's in neutral. So my plan is to adapt that switch to be hidden, you have to press the switch to start the car, otherwise the starter is basically disconnected entirely (if I'm understanding my donor cars wiring well enough).

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Build Log (not much there yet): http://lotus.reddeth.com
442e frame, 3.4l Camaro donor

Maybe we should be asking if anyone has any info re the statistics on stolen/recovered 7s. If I was set on stealing a 7, I'd have a plain van, a set of ramps and a winch inside; I wouldn't even think of trying to drive it away. With 2 guys that knew what they were doing, I'd guess that the actual time stopped could be less than 20 seconds.

It doesn't matter how many "no start/no crank/fuel cut" switches (or even noise makers) the car had, it would be gone. I had heard (not confirmed) that in England a 7 (or similar) has to have a tracking device just to get insurance - period. I think that's not a bad idea.

The reason the Wrangler didn't get stolen is as likely to be that it's a Wrangler, not so much the hidden switches

Geoff

I have an alarm with a proximity sensor. I fully understand that if a thief wants the car bad enough, they will get it. I just want to slow down and impede the lookie-lou's who may get in and/or fiddle with stuff. But if they want it bad enough, it'll be gone.

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The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer

The biggest thing about security is deterence. The more things that a thief will have to do to steal the car the bigger the chance that he/she will get caught. If your vehicle will be a royal pita to take they will likely move on. But yes if they want it bad enough there is nothing you can do to be 100%

In today's world, cars & bikes are stolen to order. I nice new BMW or Mercedes stolen at 5am (with a correct ignition/door/entry key) is in a shipping container by 8.30 and on its way overseas the same day. A couple of months ago eight high-end '09 Toyota SUV s were stolen in a small area of Toronto, all inside a couple of hours. Nobody has reported any of them being found yet.

Possibly having some basic deterrence may help with a potential joyrider, but I don't think it's real smart to be planning for the best possible scenario.

FYI, the ignition switch on my build is in a horrible place, out of sight and a little hard to get to. In parallel, I've wired in a remote control, operated from the key fob, which also controls fuel delivery. It's quite easy to do and that's my VERY short term deterrence. The car will never be left in a place where a casual "looker" can have any time alone with it.

If you leave it alone long enough, often enough, especially in the same unsecured location, regardless of how many switches and buzzers you have on it.....expect it to be stolen, then you won't be surprised when it is. This includes your underground apartment parking garage, a great place to steal a car.

Geoff

You guys keep talking gps... all the service stuff... blah blah. Cops can track cell phones, hide a boost mobile or other prepay phone, then its a one time fee and will stay good for years. When stolen give cops the number and they can track it. But like you guys said.... if they really want it, they'll get it.

If mine gets stolen, I'm really out $6500 of actual money ($5700 build + LSD + ITB's + MegaSquirt. I never count my time or I'd put a dollar figure on that too - then it's not worth actually doing anything). It's insured for more than that. I'd take the cash and build another.

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The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer