Ok I went down there today and took a look at them. When I got there, the parts guy had to take off so I didnt get a chance to get measurements off the parts but they have a kit for the uprights which come with the aluminum hub, spindle, and ball joints. It costs about $150 a side for that kit.
The ball joints are tapered style with 1/2" threads for the top one, and 3/4" threads for the bottom so it would be easy to get the weld on adaptors to make control arms for them. Looking at it, i may just drill those tapered holes out and use 5/8" rod ends instead of those ball joints.
They didnt know exactly what hub fits on the spindle but just by looking at one of them on a car, they look like 80's corolla hubs with the solid rotors. The 85/87 corolla GTS come with vented disks, and I have a couple of those struts with the hubs, brakes, and -3 lines sitting here in the garage. I just need to take them down there and see if they fit on the spindle.
One part I didnt like was the position of the tie rod end. It was a solid peice of steel that you bolt on the upright, and have a sloted hole for a 1/2 rod end to bolt on. It is rather low but I guess it will clear and I could bend it to move the bump steer, or make some kinda spacer to move its position.
Another part I didnt like was the fact that the upright was so small, meaning from the top ball joint position to the lower ball joint. Maybe about 7" or less. But thats why I would drill the holes and use rod ends instead of ball joints, that way I would beable to adjust the control arm angles a bit more.
I've see pictures of people using the toyota strut and cutting the tube, then welding the top and using a rod end. Something that was interesting though, on one of thier older legend cars, it looked like they just cut the spindle section off of the toyota strut and welded up a steel peice to make the upright. Now that is locost and may be something id do to save $400. The aluminum uprights look nice though and are damn light.
Decisions decisions.
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