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PostPosted: May 17, 2016, 4:11 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I am running out of room for the coilover when I adjust the front suspension. I came up with this idea which affords me plenty of room even though the picture doesn't show how much room there really is. Do you think it would be strong enough if i made it from 1" x .120" tube? I am not sure how to accomplish the bend yet but I can figure it out. Ideally the bend would be as close to the UBJ as possible still leaving room for the threaded tube adapter. Would it be strong enough if i cut a tube and welded it back together at the desired angle?
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PostPosted: May 17, 2016, 5:39 pm 
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Joined: April 12, 2012, 11:56 am
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Location: Pemberton, BC
I have seen U shaped upper control arms (Speedway?), so I'm sure they can be made strong enough. But, your whole wheel adjustment process will change. You can't turn a tube that isn't straight. You'll need to adjust the rod end and clevis separately.
Also, looking at your shock mount, I think your wheel rate will be too high. These shocks are around 500 lb/in; I recall that we discussed this before, but can't remember the outcome.

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PostPosted: May 17, 2016, 8:43 pm 
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Martin, you are remembering correctly. The spring rate is 46x lb/in but my MR is .73 because the spindle is very similar to the Mustang II. I realize that I would have to remove the rod end bolt in order to adjust that tube but I think most of the small adjustments would be done with the straight one (within a small margin). I have some room for adjustment now but I am limited in the amount of camber and or caster that I can add due to the small space.

I have seen some bent arms but I don't recall seeing any that have a rod end on one side and a clevis on the other. Is having a "joint" at both ends asking for trouble?

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PostPosted: May 18, 2016, 12:32 am 
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Joined: July 29, 2006, 9:10 pm
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Location: Oregon, usually
Mnot wrote:
I have seen some bent arms but I don't recall seeing any that have a rod end on one side and a clevis on the other. Is having a "joint" at both ends asking for trouble?
Yep. You'd be using the jam nut on the clevis to carry the torque load from any misalignment--if it wouldn't work with a ball joint on each end, you need to give some serious thought to where the load is going.* If you use straight tubes (no torque) there's no prob, and indeed it's quite common...presuming the clevis is only used for adjustment and isn't part of the suspension travel. The hot rod guys occasionally use clevises on four bar and hairpin suspension, where the clevis pivots with every bump, but I think that's a bad idea myself.

*The Kinetic upper ball joints use a clevis, and wouldn't work with a ball joint on each end, and I gave it some serious thought (and some testing too). I'm not saying it can't be done, I'm saying you might find unexpected loads if you dig, and it's particularly likely if your clevis attaches at an angle to any loads. In summary, it's not a no-brainer, so I guess you better use your brain.

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PostPosted: May 18, 2016, 12:42 am 
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Joined: August 27, 2005, 1:04 am
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Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
Your idea is similar to what I built for my car. I'm going to have to redo them with the curved tube at the front for more clearance to the spring, and a bit longer to match my new lower arms, but they've held up good for several years of autocross and about 600kms of street use so far on less than ideal roads. The tubes are 3/4" x .065" wall.

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PostPosted: May 18, 2016, 8:33 am 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Kristian, one key difference between yours and my proposed designs is that mine has the clevis at the UBJ. The clevis is the questionable part of my design. I have another set of ball joint holders that I could cut the clevis tab off of and then weld the tube directly to it similar to yours. its good to know that you have had so much success with yours, thanks

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