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PostPosted: October 17, 2016, 3:15 pm 
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So I am helping a friend refine his suspension geometry (kit car) and I want to see if you guys had any suggestions on an upright with the following requirements (not set in stone).

widely available (currently he is using Karmann Ghia spindles in the front and solstice uprights in the rear)
upper steering arm attachment (rear mount)
use on all 4 corners or at least same side front and rear
removable bearing hub unit
lightweight

The karmann Ghia upright is a mess and you can only get .38 non vented rotors for it and very little caliper options available (like 1 once I design a mounting bracket for it), he also is worried that the solstice rears will only be available for a few more years since they are being snatch up so quickly.

any thoughts?

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PostPosted: October 17, 2016, 10:31 pm 
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Why not Solstice all the way around?

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PostPosted: October 18, 2016, 8:53 am 
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he is afraid that it wont be available much longer since it seems to be harder and harder to get.

Maybe mustang II?? Miata??

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PostPosted: October 18, 2016, 7:43 pm 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
The Mustang II ones will, in all probability, continue be available for the foreseeable future. They work, they're available in various amounts of drop spindle (brand new, too!), they're plentiful, and they're cheap.

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PostPosted: October 18, 2016, 9:16 pm 
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As I understand it other GM cars also use the Solstice uprights plus they will be available new from GM for many years to come so in a case of an accident where the insurance company is buying new ones it won't be a problem getting some.

Since he already has 2 that would seem to make it the cheapest way.

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PostPosted: October 19, 2016, 10:17 am 
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He actually has the front solstice ones too. He is so worried that he wont be able to find them in the future (and for cheap) that he is trying to avoid them.

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PostPosted: October 19, 2016, 10:29 am 
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So how often is he planning on needing new uprights and why?

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PostPosted: October 19, 2016, 10:32 am 
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he builds kit cars. I am helping him with the brakes and realized there were very few options unless he changed the upright. He wants me to improve his handling too. This would solve both problems.

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PostPosted: October 19, 2016, 10:40 am 
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So he's going to want to build this suspension over and over on other cars, that makes sense. I was thinking a one off and wondering why change when you've already got it.

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PostPosted: October 19, 2016, 10:49 am 
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Any chance of a custom upright? I know it's a tired subject but always worth another look?


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PostPosted: October 19, 2016, 10:52 am 
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Bobber wrote:
Any chance of a custom upright? I know it's a tired subject but always worth another look?


yeah! but that cost thing :BH: .

otherwise i would just give him my design and go to town.

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PostPosted: October 24, 2016, 11:49 am 
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Do you guys know of an off the shelf Lower control arm ball joint that fits the rear solstice upright? I am trying to avoid reaming the upright if at all possible.

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PostPosted: October 25, 2016, 6:52 am 
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I looked (im using them too) - ended up using solstice BJ on the bottom. I had to machine a sleeve to press it into. The older GM ones (Camaro , S10 etc) are the same taper but shorter. The Solstice is thicker and needs a taller BJ. I used a ES150R tie rod for the upper - had to ream with 7* reamer. It has a 3/4" shank. I used the ES150R for the tie rod ends in the rear too.


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PostPosted: October 25, 2016, 8:17 am 
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Sean in CT wrote:
I looked (im using them too) - ended up using solstice BJ on the bottom. I had to machine a sleeve to press it into. The older GM ones (Camaro , S10 etc) are the same taper but shorter. The Solstice is thicker and needs a taller BJ. I used a ES150R tie rod for the upper - had to ream with 7* reamer. It has a 3/4" shank. I used the ES150R for the tie rod ends in the rear too.


bummer but thanks for the info!

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PostPosted: October 25, 2016, 10:55 am 
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the C5 and C6 corvette use the same ball joint, so they are easy to get - about $60 on amazon.

When I reamed the uppers, I made a fixture and did it in my bridgeport milling machine. You need to go slow and use a lot of pressure and lube. I bought an X-Kut reamer on ebay - it was very well made. It takes a lot of pressure because you are cutting a large area at once, especially as you get near the end. I think it would be difficult to do with a hand drill. If you go too fast it will heat up which hardens the aluminum surface and makes it very difficult. The bottom of the tierod is perpendicular to the face of the upright, so an angle block can be used to fixture those.


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