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Well, I'm rapidly getting to the point where I'll need to design suspension around the powerplant, so here goes.

As a recap, the project is a middy with a FWD trans from a Sentra SE-R Spec V mated to a Mazda 13B.
Special features will include rear wheel steering, provided by the HICAS rack from an R33 Skyline.

I already bought a pair of WJB WA518516 front hubs+bearings for an 05 Maxima, thinking I was going to use Miata uprights re-bored to fit the bearing.

I've since realized that for rear steering to be feasible, I'll need to go custom uprights.

The 07 Sentra has a sealed bolt-on hub+bearing+flange assembly, WJB WA513298.

Both have the right splines to match the axles I have to use.

The uprights are likely going to be made from 6061-T6 for weight savings.

I know mjalaly is running aluminum uprights with a Honda bearing+hub, and doesn't seem to have any issues. I also have serious envy of his original upright design.

It seems most people prefer cartridge style hubs for ease of bolting up and not dealing with bearing bores or stress analysis.

What do you guys see as the pros and cons for each?

I'm in analysis paralysis right now, kinda stuck between the two, but leaning towards using what I've already bought.

_________________
Walt
06 RX-8 Shinka
04 RX-8 GT
06 325xi
Some people never have anything except ideas. Go do it.
Emissions & fuel economy haven't exactly been areas of strength for past rotary power plants, but absolutely no one with a soul has ever cared.

The only thing I'll add (which likely won't be an issue for a light car), is to make sure the hub assembly bearing can handle loads of slicks/racing if you choose to do so. Otherwise throwing new hubs at it after every track day gets really expensive.

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Build log: viewtopic.php?t=9291

I wouldn't exactly go that far - you need to worry about stress analysis with both designs. The cartridge hub has high localized stresses at the bolt holes. You need to figure out a way to evenly distribute these or else you're asking for a failure.

I don't think there is really a clear cut reason to go one way or another. Pick whatever is available for your axles and what you can actually build. If a cartridge hub isn't available you'll need a lathe. Depending on the housing thickness, bearing type, and the amount of heat you dump into it, you may need to machine it undersize and cut it to final size with a boring bar after everything is welded.

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-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

I guess what I meant was "not as much stress analysis", since the DIY cartridge uprights I've seen tend to be box steel and built to withstand anything.

As far as fabrication, I have a lathe, bridgeport, surface grinder, and a recently acquired FADAL 4020HT VMC.
One of my friends has welding certs and his own shop, so I can outsource critical structural welding to him.

I think I'll have a go with what I have currently, and see what happens.

_________________
Walt
06 RX-8 Shinka
04 RX-8 GT
06 325xi
Some people never have anything except ideas. Go do it.
Emissions & fuel economy haven't exactly been areas of strength for past rotary power plants, but absolutely no one with a soul has ever cared.

*Now* you get the Fadal, after all that work on the bellhousing adapter...

Yep. The four most precise bored holes were done by hand.
It did do the outer/inner contours, and the rest of the required holes though. I only had to countersink and tap on the manual equipment afterwards.

_________________
Walt
06 RX-8 Shinka
04 RX-8 GT
06 325xi
Some people never have anything except ideas. Go do it.
Emissions & fuel economy haven't exactly been areas of strength for past rotary power plants, but absolutely no one with a soul has ever cared.