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PostPosted: September 19, 2017, 9:45 pm 
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Joined: June 28, 2016, 9:21 pm
Posts: 42
Hi all,

I am trying to figure out how the panhard rod bracket is attached to the axle. Looking from the picture, it feel like it is welded on the back of the trailing arm bracket. And the way it is set up the bolt is going into a blind hole. The bolt is going into the axle tube. There is no way to put a nut. So they just use some material of the bracket and some of the axle tube and tap threads for the bolt. This looks dangerous cuz you can easily drill hole though axle tube and even if you don't drill thought, the tube structure is weakened.

Is there any better way or I just simply misunderstand the design intent?


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PostPosted: September 19, 2017, 11:19 pm 
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Joined: January 11, 2017, 11:06 pm
Posts: 187
Location: Alberta
Just my guess here, but if I were to build it like that I would D&T the far side of the mount where it welds to the trailing arm bracket, as well as the bracket itself. It's not like there's a lot of tension on that bolt, so the combined thickness of the brackets would be enough to keep me happy. The other option of course would be to weld a nut inside the bracket.


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PostPosted: September 20, 2017, 12:42 am 
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Joined: July 29, 2006, 9:10 pm
Posts: 3160
Location: Oregon, usually
Turn the panhard rod bracket so the bolt is vertical.

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PostPosted: September 20, 2017, 1:05 am 
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Joined: July 4, 2006, 5:40 pm
Posts: 1994
Location: Novato, CA
Blind nuts can be welded in place. That's what I did. One caution: Keep the mount at the axle midpoint or higher, or else the Panhard rod will contact the RU tube before the axle does, reducing the already minimal clearance.
Attachment:
weldedaxle.jpg


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PostPosted: September 20, 2017, 3:26 am 
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Joined: April 26, 2008, 6:06 pm
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Location: Under the weather. (Seattle)
As noted by Nick, there is either a nut welded on the inside of the bracket between the bracket and the axle tube, or the extra thickness of the bracket in that area is simply threaded.

Beyond that, the bracket going around to the outside of the Panhard bar to put the bolt into 'double shear' is doing netx-to-nothing without a top and bottom wall boxing it in...Much like unsupported half of the coilover bracket. The way Nick's puts the bolt into double shear is FAR superior.

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PostPosted: September 20, 2017, 12:01 pm 
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Joined: June 8, 2010, 8:02 pm
Posts: 621
Location: White Rock, BC, Canada
Use a proper nut. Most steels you are going to use are too soft to take a good thread and will be weaker. Threads will also have been cut, not rolled, so weaker again (rolling threads is like forging them).
Blind nut, weld nut, or just enough room to sneak a loose nut and wrench behind will work. My bolt is vertical so a simple nut and bolt work.
Cheers.

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PostPosted: September 20, 2017, 1:09 pm 
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Joined: May 27, 2006, 9:46 pm
Posts: 1954
Location: BC, Canada. eh?
Here are a couple of pics of mine (the too-long bolt in the axle-end mount has been replaced, by the way!). I, too, went with captured nuts (1/2" NF) inside the brackets, fully welded around their bases, at both ends. Note that the axle end of the panhard rod is angled to meet the mount properly. At the other end, it's straight, as the mount itself was able to be welded in at an appropriate angle. The whole thing has been cleaned up & painted since these pics were taken. All bolts are Grade 8 1/2" NF.

Attachment:
panhard at axle small.jpg


Attachment:
panhard at frame small.jpg


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PostPosted: September 20, 2017, 3:53 pm 
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Joined: July 4, 2006, 5:40 pm
Posts: 1994
Location: Novato, CA
While I agree with Cory that a nut is always better than tapped threads, this bolt is loaded almost entirely in shear. So long as the bolt is supported and you have a way to ensure it can't come out, you're probably fine. I would still use a nut.


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