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 Post subject: Re: Bell Crank bearings
PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 6:07 am 
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Location: Zagreb, Croatia
my suspension "box" is above the floor plane of the frame..

you should first design the suspension, then go about designing the frame..

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 Post subject: Re: Bell Crank bearings
PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:04 am 
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Yea I thought I had my suspension planned out but definitely need to re-think some things on how exactly to go about it.

Ben


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 Post subject: Re: Bell Crank bearings
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 4:21 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2011 9:19 am
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Location: Denver Co
I was planning on going with these parts from McMaster which will be really cheap.

Per bell crank
1x 5905K28 = $7.20
2x 5909k49 = $1.10
2x 5909k36 = $2.97
2x 5909k63 = $4.66

I think they will move move nicely.

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 Post subject: Re: Bell Crank bearings
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 4:25 pm 
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Always Moore!
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA
What is the 5905K28 going to ride on?

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 Post subject: Re: Bell Crank bearings
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 4:29 pm 
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
a.moore wrote:
What is the 5905K28 going to ride on?


I am also wondering this, in theory if you could get an aircraft grade bold the right size it may work or you could get a liner/race for it and use an Aircraft or Mil-Spec bolt.

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 Post subject: Re: Bell Crank bearings
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 4:48 pm 
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Location: Denver Co
there will be a stepped post off of the chassis in which you would place the 5905k28 that will be sandwiched between 5909k63,5909k36 and 5909k49 at top and bottom. Let me see if i can wrap up the bell crank and post a pic.

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 Post subject: Re: Bell Crank bearings
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 6:01 pm 
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Location: Massachusetts
I thought the fellow using VW piston pins had a great idea... Maybe that was Kartracer or Kiki?

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 Post subject: Re: Bell Crank bearings
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:34 pm 
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Location: Denver Co
This is what i had in mind. Maybe a little over complicated

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 Post subject: Re: Bell Crank bearings
PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 11:54 am 
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Location: Denver Co
Do any of you guys have thoughts on using angular contact bearings like the one used in Mountain bike headsets?

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 Post subject: Re: Bell Crank bearings
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 11:08 am 
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Always Moore!
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA
I don't think your three piece design has enough contact area between the outer webs of the bellcrank and the center bearing. I'd be afraid of the bore for the center bearing failing in bearing.

I'd either make them from sheet metal and weld a tube to two pieces of sheet to support the the bearing or CNC it from one piece of aluminum.

I would also extend the trunnion for the mount almost all of the way to the red retainer cap. Having it partially load the needle bearing can't be good for it. It will also help to keep the upper thrust bearing and races in place. I'd also go out of the way to get that surface as smooth (and as hard) as possible since it is now acting as a bearing race.

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 Post subject: Re: Bell Crank bearings
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 11:18 am 
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when we did our FSAE car we used a design similar to what you are showing however we welded some thick wall reamed recieviers into the chassis. Into these short sections of the Hardened precision ground shafts (drillable in the middle) where inserted and retained with Circlip groves (ground in using a cutoff wheel). This allowed the needle bearing to work on a precision ground surface and was easy to remove. If I had it to do again I would probably use a Blind pocket and thread the center of the shaft to retain it with a bolt on the chassis side so it would be easier to assemble.

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 Post subject: Re: Bell Crank bearings
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 11:23 am 
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Location: Denver Co
a.moore wrote:
I don't think your three piece design has enough contact area between the outer webs of the bellcrank and the center bearing. I'd be afraid of the bore for the center bearing failing in bearing.

I'd either make them from sheet metal and weld a tube to two pieces of sheet to support the the bearing or CNC it from one piece of aluminum.

I would also extend the trunnion for the mount almost all of the way to the red retainer cap. Having it partially load the needle bearing can't be good for it. It will also help to keep the upper thrust bearing and races in place. I'd also go out of the way to get that surface as smooth (and as hard) as possible since it is now acting as a bearing race.


Yeah i have been looking at making a one piece design without adding a lot of cost since i want this thing to be really stiff. I may just have some sheet metal cut and welded with inner bracing. I did catch the issue you saw too with the trunnion mount. I increased it last night to align the upper bearings and for the cap to sit on. Thanks moore.

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 Post subject: Re: Bell Crank bearings
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 11:24 am 
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nocones wrote:
when we did our FSAE car we used a design similar to what you are showing however we welded some thick wall reamed recieviers into the chassis. Into these short sections of the Hardened precision ground shafts (drillable in the middle) where inserted and retained with Circlip groves (ground in using a cutoff wheel). This allowed the needle bearing to work on a precision ground surface and was easy to remove. If I had it to do again I would probably use a Blind pocket and thread the center of the shaft to retain it with a bolt on the chassis side so it would be easier to assemble.



Do you have a pic of this set up?? sounds interesting.

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 Post subject: Re: Bell Crank bearings
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 6:07 pm 
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Location: Denver Co
Here are the RP parts. These work really really smooth even when cranked down and also considering the bearings are riding on plastic. I think the only changes i am going to make from here is adding an o-ring top and bottom to keep gunk out and shooting to make it one piece or welded.

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