LocostUSA.com

This project started a 6 months ago when I started looking for a donor. In mid August I found a 93' Miata, after driving it for a month it was time to start.

I plan on using as much of the Miata as possible, including the rear subframe, to build the 442.

Here are some pics of the before and after donor dismantle.

Here are some recent pics,

I am using a freinds welder until I get one.
Which welder are you guy's using, I been watching craigslist fo a good deal, 120v. or 220v ? miller, lincoln, hobart, century? What do ya think?

Nice donor!

I bought myself a Lincoln SP 125+ off craigslist. I don't really need anything bigger than that at home for this project, and I only have 110V available to me currently. I think it's also easier to use a smaller welder: they take up less space, they're usually cheaper, and for our project, the smaller wire (.023, .025) makes for a much nicer welding experience on thin metal.

-Matt "I wish my Miata had leather!" Rogers

Found a Hobart 140 on CL with bottle and cart for $300, its only a few years old and so far its working good, I just need a little practice. I started with .030 wire but switch to .023, heat setting at 3 and wire speed at 45, it seems to work a little better on 16 g. tubing, Any other suggestions ?

Practice, practice, practice.

Oh, that and clean every tube before you weld it.

Go get'em!

I was told that a 220v welder with 175 amps is needed to build a Locost. Sounds like that isn't the case. The 1" frame tubes are 16 gauge, right? Sounds like the smaller 125-140 amp welders handle this just fine.

You are correct. Just about everything on a Locost can be welded using a 110v mig or tig welder. 220 would be great to have because of the ability to do other bigger stuff, but many here have built their entire cars with smaller welders.

Something I've found with my welder (Lincoln power mig 180) and every other small mig welder I've used, is that the chart inside for the settings is off a bit to the cold side. To get good penetration with well fitted joints, I like to have my welder one or 2 settings hotter than the recomended.
Kristian

Turbo,
That is exactly what I found out, I'm using the 3rd heat setting and running at 45 on the speed dial. This gives me good penetration,

Feels good to make it 3-D,

Now that I have the rear subfame tacked in place, I'm ready for the engine mounts.

It's finally starting to look like something.

I was going to use the rear stock shocks but sounds like everyone is upgrading to something else. Where does everyone get there shocks? How much money are we talking?

I have been busy, just not very busy with the Locost. but here are a few pics.

I hope my engine doesn't set to tall, the sump hangs down about an 1 1/4".

The next item on the list is the transmission tunnel, then more diagonals, and soon wil be working on the front suspension whenever I get a quote back from Kinetic.

What is everyone using for shocks (spring rate,diameter, and length), is most people getting there supplies from Kinetic (front suspension, fiber-glass). I'm thinking of using brake/clutch assembly similar to what Chetco installed.

A few updates,

Next on the list is more braceing, finishing the rear tubes, monting points for roll cage, seat mounting, and front suspension when I scrape together some money.

The first of many minor setbacks, With only an inch of clearance between the tire and rear diagonal brace, after I get some shocks I will modify this.

That might still be doable. When the suspension is in full bump, how close does it get?

Use longer wheel lugs and spacer plates or get wheels with less offset.