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The axle shafts listed for various GM 7.5 models are between 26-30" depending on the vehicle. I believe my shafts are the 26" models (I haven't measured). I would check out www.ringpinion.com, they have lots of shafts listed for the 7.5. Regardless, they are a couple inches longer so the newer models are going to be ideal for a 442.

Guys - I restored a 1959 Austin-Healey Bugeye Sprite several years ago and am now looking for my next project. I have joined your group and have been lurking for several months now, picking up a lot of good information. I am at the point where I could use some of your expertise and suggestions if you are willing to give them. I plan a 442 recreational driving (non-racing) build with an S-10 donor. Do you suggest a 1998 or newer for the disc brakes? Is there a choice of 6 cylinder engines and which one is the best fit? Can you find 6 cylinder donors with 5 speed transmissions? What model gives the appropriate rear wheel width for a 442? Any other S-10 donor considerations I should have? As you can tell, I do not know much about S-10's but I think this would make the most practical donor for my build. Thanks. Bandana ....o~'o

There are two v6's; a 2.8l and a 4.3l. The 2.8 has a narrow angle (60 degrees) between the cylinder banks while the 4.3 is basically a small block v8 with the end cylinders cut off (90 degrees between cylinder banks). The 2.8 would fit better and would have plenty enough power. Ask any Striker owner. The 2.8 was available with a 5 speed, but early 4.3's only came with an automatic - lower insurance costs was the reason I heard. I heard the 2.8's would plug the oil return galleys in the cylinder heads and starve the bottom end of oil. Don't know how true that is, though.
Disc brakes are always better - less unsprung weight - and on a car this light, every little bit helps.

I'm building a 442 with a 2.8. I bought a package deal from a 91 S-10 that included engine, tranny, rear axle and 4 wagon spoke wheels.. The 91 rear axle was 54 inches which is way too narrow. Then I picked up a 96 Bravada axle which is 59 3/4 and it seems to be just about right.

http://www.carnut.com/specs/rear.html

while not complete, this is a handy reference.

Michael,
That's terrific information. I thought I already had this all sorted out but apparently not. This Saturday I'm going to my local friendly recycler to pick up my S10 rear. I'm running a GM 3800 S/C and a 700 autobox (long story - don't ask).

I understood that any S10 diff could take a Camaro/Firebird diff, which is much stronger than the S10. I also understood that the stock S10 rear wouldn't stand up to much abuse. I like the idea of the Zexel Torsen switch. Of course I want to have disks on it.

The friendly recycler has a rear end put aside for me (apparently with posi). Can you give me the quick skinny to make sure I'm getting the right one?

Appreciate any help. I have loads of electrical/electronics/injection etc experience, but short on heavy drive-line work.

Geoff

I assume the GM3800SC your refering to is the L67 that came in Grand Prixs, Impalas and Monte Carlos. And that the 700 autobox is the 700R. Are you planing to use an adaptor of some sort? Im I'm not mistaken, the 700R has a chevy bolt pattern and the L67 is the BOP bolt pattern. As to whether the S10 rear will hold up is dependant on the what type it is. If it's a 10 bolt chevy rear it will hold the L67 stock power just fine. Stock the L67 series II is rated at 240HP and the L67 series III at 260hp. The series III only came in Grand Prixs. If you mod the L67 to over 300hp (easy to do) then a stock 10 bolt rear becomes iffy. A 12 bolt chevy rear, a ford 9" or DANA 60 would be better options.

If it were me I'd start with the S10 rear and if it doesn't ultimately work out then move on to something better. In a light car the S10 will prolly work out fine.

The L67 came in a bunch of other vehicles too: Buick Park Ave, Olds 98, Riviera, Bonneville. This one - a '92 Series 1- is out of a Park Ave, it bolts up just fine to the 700, there are no issues at all, I have a 700 housing I've been using for a dummy. Initially the engine will remain dead stock. I won't be racing it yet, just the occasional stoplight blast.

Is there a quick way to identify the "Chevy type" you're saying should be OK? At this point I'm not going to switch to another make unless there's a good reason. I just need to know how to recognize the appropriate axle from amongst a pile of them.

Geoff

check out this link

http://novaresource.org/axle.htm

And naturally the cover will have 10 bolts. Any of the units pictured would be ok.

Chevy bellhousing pattern (s10 4cyl pre 1994, all 4.3 and v8):
BOP Pattern (all modern 3.8, buick, olds,pontiac, some caddy v8):
60* pattern (also northstar iirc):

The BOP will almost match up to a chevy. the pins and 2 lower bolt holes line up just fine. It is the others that are off some.
As far as automatic overdrives go, the 2004-r had a dual pattern to it. 700r4 (4l60, later the 4L60e and 4L80e) is pretty much a chevy only. I've never seen one with a bop pattern myself. they both use a TV cable, NOT a kick down cable. the throttle geometry has to be right, or you WILL burn it up.

bowtieoverdrive dot com sells a kit to prevent that. but factory parts can be used to duplicate it, just get a throttle bracket for a quadrajet.

I may have misunderstood re the Chevy type. I thought we were talking about the rear axle. I've got the trans handled. If there's a specific rear axle I should be looking for, that's what I'd like to be able to ID quickly.

As I said, he's put aside a posi version, but I understand it may not be the strongest option.

Tyrod, that's a neat resource, I don't know if the Nova and S10s are the same, but I'll have a printout with me at the recyclers on Saturday.

Geoff

there is almost no chance that anything would interchange between a nova 10 bolt and an s10 10 bolt.

Thanks 53Sled,
The stuff on that site is pretty old too.

Geoff

Hi Folks,
I need some help identifying the rear end I got last week. It's supposed to be an S10, but it may be a little older than that. I pulled it apart and it's in great shape internally. All of the bearings look good and the diff is in perfect shape, although I won't be using it.

The end game is to put a Camaro posi in there and change to Jimmy disks. As you see it here, I've used some rust treatment, but I'm planning on getting it done by a local shop that has a service to dip it and bring it to clean bare metal.

For ID purposes only, the diff is a 3.41 - 10 bolt 7" ring gear and the cover is 10 bolts too. The axle seal's outside diameter is 2.652" and the axle sealing surface is 1.4" (axle). There are no markings at all on the seals. The axle's tube is straight all the way across, outside diameter is 2.6" + corrosion.

I haven't pulled the axle bearings out yet, as close as I can see the bearing # is JHI40T0 - MYATT USA.

Here are a few photos. The positions of the spring pads should be a decent clue. BTW the dimension between axle surfaces is 56.875", which is the reason to persevere with this diff.

Thanks all

Geoff

Hello all,
I got the rear axle back from the chemical dip guys and it looks really good. I can now see the stamped ID number on the right-front tube. It's stamped with dots so it's not easy to read.

With a double up magnifying glass I've got UBS C 293 1 for a number.

The pinion has 12 teeth and the ring gear has 41 teeth for a ratio of 3.41/1 so I don't know if the 293 1 part of the ID stamp actually mean it's supposed to be a 293/1. Possibly the gears were changed at some point.

Does anyone have a handle on these numbers?

Geoff