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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: June 3, 2011, 5:52 pm 
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Joined: July 13, 2010, 5:35 pm
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Location: Kansas City
I have now purchased the Haynes 2nd edition book in hard cover, and the Newer book as well. I think I've picked up enough reading everyone's build to fire up the mig.

First, I built a pretty flat and level table. Then painted it white. Nothing fancy

It is very simple, 2x4 and appearance grade plywood. shaved off little bump that the level caught on.
Pre-drilled holes in the corners for the screws that will hold it to the base.
I then made a base from 4x4 posts. Squared up with 2x4 (and have a shelf) and plywood sides. sturdy, and plenty rigid.

Then, I put heavy screws into the posts, below the table top. Using a new made in the USA level ;) I slowly raised it up until it was about perfect.
Then, drove in the deck screws into my pre-drilled holes. They helped quite a bit. I didn't have to put much pressure on the drill, so the table stayed put.
Quick test after and it was still level.


Camera is lost somewhere, so I'll have to add pictures when I locate it. I think my kid hides things I need on purpose.

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Last edited by 53sled on June 8, 2011, 10:59 am, edited 4 times in total.

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PostPosted: June 3, 2011, 5:52 pm 
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Joined: July 13, 2010, 5:35 pm
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Location: Kansas City
I downloaded google sketchup plans called McSorley-Rorty Hybrid. I can print them off at work on big paper, but I had to go back and write in the measurements.
Everything seems to match fairly close to the 442 chassis in the Sketchup library. I don't have much experience with 3d drafting software, so this was very easy for me to mess with without spending alot up front.

I did extend the build table another 5" to accommodate the length at this stage. (48x 101"). No, I have not sat on the table and made noises. I have been working 7 days a week so only had 30-45 minutes of me time each evening, after the baby is put to bed.

After attempting to sit in a book frame, I'm sure that there is no way even a diet would make it work. At 6'1" 250, sacrifices must be made.

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Last edited by 53sled on June 8, 2011, 10:39 am, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: June 3, 2011, 5:53 pm 
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Joined: July 13, 2010, 5:35 pm
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Location: Kansas City
I stared the base. tacked in lightly, then flipped it over to tack the bottom. Square and flat so far, only a feeler gauge can tell.

Going to look at a not running but almost sr20det swapped 240sx. I hope 205 (rated) hp is enough!

I know I need to upload progress pictures. You will just have to wait.

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Last edited by 53sled on June 23, 2011, 3:18 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: June 3, 2011, 10:44 pm 
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Joined: July 26, 2010, 10:37 am
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Location: Tennessee
I think something is amiss here.


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PostPosted: June 3, 2011, 11:38 pm 
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Location: Phoenix arizona
errrr 53 sled...whatever your sniffing ...stop it...its killing your braincells


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PostPosted: June 4, 2011, 3:48 am 
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Joined: June 4, 2010, 10:47 am
Posts: 179
Queit you guys, he even thinks he is the Stig.

Lets give him some time and see who he thinks he is tomarrow.

That ain't no ordinary glue that boy is a sniffin!

Lick your finger and make sure your not down wind of this one!



Mark.


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PostPosted: June 27, 2011, 10:28 pm 
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Location: Kansas City
I had to cut up some trees, and do a little roof repair on the old shop. Also took in a couple rescue dogs.

Image
Image

So I haven't made much progress. But, my friend scored a 240 with sr20det swap for a donor. It needs some work, but it will scream.

Image
Image
Image

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PostPosted: June 28, 2011, 7:21 pm 
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Joined: September 26, 2009, 8:25 pm
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Location: Park Hills, KY
Hahaha! You hope 205 is enough hp? 118 is pretty damn quick...150- 175 would be on par with some of the faster cars I've driven/owned....205 will be plenty...


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PostPosted: June 30, 2011, 11:50 am 
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Location: Kansas City
krepus wrote:
Hahaha! You hope 205 is enough hp? 118 is pretty damn quick...150- 175 would be on par with some of the faster cars I've driven/owned....205 will be plenty...


I was looking for a cheap little b2200 or something simple. This just sort of fell into our laps. Only $1k, needs a new turbo but has a front mount ic, aftermarket header so turbo is up, forward and out of the way for a hanging pedal box already, I've seen the 240 irs used on a seven type car. Just going to take a little re-engineering. AKA, tack tack, grind, cut, tack, tack, grind, cut measure, tack, hammer, grind cuss, tack.

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PostPosted: June 30, 2011, 2:24 pm 
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Location: Park Hills, KY
Hard to say no when it falls in your lap... I read an Aussie's build log using the ca18det and 240 rear, can't remember the site for the life of me... there is also a fella on here that may have used the rear... I think he used a redtop sr.... i'll try to find his log and drop the link...


Linky 1: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=2664&hilit=racelogic

Linky 2: http://dlukoszek.tripod.com/index.html

Hope you find some good info, good progress with the build!


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 Post subject: Not much to report.
PostPosted: August 30, 2011, 4:49 pm 
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Location: Kansas City
Finished repairing the roof and ceiling from tree/ water damage and built a privacy fence. $2k from my fun money :(
Found some miata spindle/hubs on ePay. I can at least mock up the front end now. I have a steering rack to cut up and practice shortening, its a rear steer but good enough to cut on, and has long inner tie rods. might be able to salvage something.

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PostPosted: December 14, 2011, 2:03 pm 
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Location: Kansas City
Not much progress, I have a solid axle, spindles and brakes from a nissan truck and am using a 240sx motor and 5 speed for mock up. It may not be the lightest ever made, but I want it to be easy to complete. Someday I will make an aluminum frame and use miata stuff. Maybe.

The ka has to mount pretty far back to clear the intake and still offset to the right, I need as much room as possible. an sr20 is just as wide using stock intake.
I also have to notch the passenger footwell to clear the right side hydraulic clutch slave.
Driver side exhaust makes me think I either need to mount master cylinders down low, or up in the scuttle to leave room for the turbo, steering shaft, and etc


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PostPosted: December 14, 2011, 9:02 pm 
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Even a slightly hopped up ka would be a great little motor... Well, I guess not really "little" but not the biggest engine we've seen shoved into one of these things, either...


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PostPosted: July 31, 2012, 10:50 pm 
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Back from the dead, I just ordered the bits and pieces needed to build control arms, 4 link. Went out to a Scion FR-S launch track day and got my mojo back. Sold a motorcycle and those dollars were on fire in my pocket.

Next stop, the metal yard for tubing and sheet. I figure 3/4" .188 wall is heavy enough to tap for 1/2" heims? .374 ID, have to drill out to 29/64 which leaves .149" wall in the threaded areas. Surely that will be strong enough for rear end arms as well. my worn out 2.4 maybe has 120hp left, and no way will it shear a 1/2" grade 8 bolt. My welds would fail first.

I'm using chrysler screw in lower ball joint, es150 tie rod uppers.

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PostPosted: July 31, 2012, 11:27 pm 
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53sled wrote:
I figure 3/4" .188 wall is heavy enough to tap for 1/2" heims?

Exactly what I used for the upper A-arms, and it wasn't fun. Get a really good tap. I went through 3 cheapie hardware store plug taps and one tap handle. Also, don't try drilling out the center hole to 29/64ths with a hand drill. For the trailing links I stayed with tried-and-true welded threaded ends.

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