LocostUSA.com

Nice looking build so far Tom - the details look great.

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-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

Thanks all, I really appreciate your comments and feedback.
JD, The aft ends of the trailing arms attach to T-Bird rear uprights (thence to a Mustang Cobra IRS pumpkin with Explorer ears.) The arms are set to run level and parallel at ride height (4.5") The pivots should be space out far enough so the arms clear the body sides. Heim joints will terminate the trailing arms. More pivot positions can be added later if needed.
JD, I screwed up on the name, here's the answer: Marcus, thanks for correcting my misnomer. I don't know where the "Tilley" came from...but I do have a Tilley hat
JD, I like that!
Marcus, the inside of the Terry hoop tubes measure 35.8" across. The roll hoop measures 42.6" from the car floor. This is 3" above my old helmet when the seat is 1.25" from the floor and minimal padding is used. I wanted some wiggle room on the height to adjust the seat mounts and position, get a new spec (taller) helmet, add some padding, etc. When all is said and done, I should still have 2" clearance above a new style helmet.
Piloti's, the orange soles would go nicely with Slotus green...
And that picture got me looking hard at pedal box placement. I'm thinking about using a two pedal / 3 master cylinder floor mount set-up from either Tilton or OBP (per Pegasus.) Does anybody have any experience with either of these or other suggestions? (The throttle will be drive-by-wire from GM with appropriate ECU tweaks.) I'm also pondering the kind of structure I need to properly mount the pedal and MC fixture. The pedal box location/structure will have a big say in how far back I can mount the motor. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

"I'm thinking about using a two pedal / 3 masteder floor mount set-up from either Tilton or OBP (per Pegasus.) Does anybody have any experience with either of these or other suggestions? I'm also pondering the kind of structure I need to properly mount the pedal and MC fixture."

I've got the Tilton unit installed in my car. Its not running yet so I don't know how it works, but fit and finish is excellent, pedal adjustability is good, and its fairly compact and easily fits in my footwell. For structure, the MCs mount right to the pedal assembly so you don't require any fabwork for them. Mounting the pedal assembly is a pretty straightforward affair and just bolts to the floor, I believe there are 3 bolts, maybe 4.

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Trochu Motor League

Trochu, thanks. I went back through your Build Log (very nice build!) and found the picture of your Tilton install (page 8.) Looks like what I need to do.
Looks like you built a "floor" sub-structure of 3/4" square tubing to bolt the Tilton unit onto. Is that correct?
Did you add sl^^ves to the tubing to take the compression of the bolts or?
Does your footwell firewall clamp between the MC's and the Tilton casting?
Thanks for the help.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Thank you.


That's exactly what I did. I went with 3/4" because I think it should be strong enough and it's a lower profile as I wanted the assembly as close to the floor as possible. I don't have a decent picture of the structure itself, pretty simple though, one bar running parallel to the footwell firewall and two running perpendicular to it.


So far I've drilled holes in the tube and thats it. I haven't made up my mind on how to finish it. I'd like to try using 1/2" washers which, in my mind, would distrubute the load to the tube side walls, thereby removing the need for sl^^es. The load is probably higher than I think it will be however and I probably should put some in.....


Maybe I have short legs, I'm 6 foot, but I placed the footwell firewall behind the MCs. I still have enought room though and it cleans up the engine bay. Here is a quick shot I took this morning.

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Trochu Motor League

It looks like it can also bolt up to the firewall. Would that work and still give enough pedal travel?

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

Yo, Tom, and Trochu, for that matter-
I'm looking at the picture of the floor-mounted MCs that Trochu posted and pondering, thinking out loud, kinda- Does that installation put the tubing and remote reservoirs in the cockpit somewhere? Or do the tubes from MC to reservoir go through the firewall when it's all done?

I can see plus and minus to either answer...
Leaky connection with it all in the cockpit and you'll get brake fluid on your shoes, seatcover, floor mat, your date's new fancy high heels (or her panties?), etc.
The pass-through on the firewall lets hot air/fumes into the cockpit. (which is likely drafty enough that it doesn't matter)
The pass through rubs holes in the tubes.
Refilling reservoirs leads to spilling brake fluid on something inside the cockpit where brake fluid doesn't belong. (See afore-mentioned "date's new shoes" or into the tachometer)

Counterpoints-
Iffen they leak, you'll know it before you run out of brakes!
You can check 'em without taking the hood off the car.
Fluid stays cooler.
It all stays cleaner than it would in the engine bay.

Dunno... Just wondering... Talk amongst yourselves...

JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

I put the remote reservoir tubes on the MCs to see how they would fit. I'm not planning on using them. The reservoirs will be mounted directly to the MCs, which are located inside the cockpit. There are +/- of putting them there vs the engine bay. I weighed the pros/cons and decided I'd rather have them in the footwell for ease of construction, keeping them cooler, cleans up the engine bay/doesn't get in the way of steering column/headers/or slave cylinder, can mount the reservoirs directly to the MCs and don't have to deal with remotes, which have a tendancy to leak, etc. If they aren't maintenance free, it was a bad choice, but I'm assuming they will be......

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Trochu Motor League

Fair enuff, and well said, Sir!

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

How about checking and filling them?

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Yo Tom-
That's a pic off the UK Locost site, note the "fairing" off the side of the nose. Perhaps filling in that gap in the nose on Car9 with something similar might not look too bad... Might even help with airflow...

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Hey JD, I like that. Might even help with hot air extraction behind the radiator. Besides, it would make the brick more aerodynamic
I'll file the pic in my "To Do" file. The flairs would probably easier to make than perfectly flat filler panels. I could use your pink foam moulding technique.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

my brake master cylinders are behind the instument cluster and easily accessable, dzus fasteners on the dash panel and three screws.

the fairings in the picture are because the IVA in England doesn't like bolt heads or nuts that stick out of the car, especially at the front, i di something similar on mine.

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this story shall the good man teach his son,
and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by,
from this day to the end of the world.
but we in it shall be remembered.

John, those fairings are a nice touch. I'm considering using something like that over the rear trailing arm front pivots, as they will be proud of the body sides about even with the dash. Should add a vintage look, too.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

the fairings are boat air intakes, and come chrome plated.

i sanded the chrome off though, too flashy.

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this story shall the good man teach his son,
and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by,
from this day to the end of the world.
but we in it shall be remembered.