LocostUSA.com

Is this the correct way to wire an led push button so that the light is on off controlled with the switch function? I wired it up and I got 12v to across the relay regardless of the switch being pushed in or not. Led also stayed on the whole time.



Here is the best diagram i could find for my button.

_________________
My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

wire the LED between switch out and ground. ... 4>6 and 5>ground
If the LED won't come on, swap 5 and 6, the polarity going to the LED isn't shown on the drawing provided.

_________________
"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett

Have you got a mfgr's P/N for your switch so I can look up the data sheet? That diagram you referenced is for a 110VAC application. It shows no dropping resistors or blocking diode, required for the LED if not installed internally.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my active Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE
or my archival Locost build log: over HERE

It is a part from amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MXU ... UTF8&psc=1

The part number stamped on the housing is QN22-A.
I found this based on the part number.

_________________
My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

OK. It is a dedicated switch for 12V DC applications. The current limiting resistor would be internal and set up for 12V. No blocking diode is required for automotive use.

Disregard the 110AC schematic you posted.

Follow Oldjack's advice. It will get you there. Wire one LED terminal between output and chassis ground if you want the light to indicate the switch condition. Reverse the 2 LED wires if you need to. Wire it between input and ground if you want the light on all of the time.

Good luck

Note that some buyers of this Amazon switch have received momentary switches and not latching on/off like described.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my active Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE
or my archival Locost build log: over HERE

Like so??

_________________
My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

Yep.

edit>> The picture provided is a double pole single throw. ... DPST in shorthand.
You can wire power to two line terminals and have one load terminal for the LED and one for the relay.

_________________
"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett

Not quite following but that's ok. Electrical isn't my strong suit.

i think my current switch got fried too. If i do a continuity test from 3 to 4, i don't have flow regardless if the button is pressed or not.

_________________
My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

Never mind. ... I needed to clean my glasses, the edit is incorrect.

_________________
"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett

Also do any of you know where to get or what the connectors are called for these small plug leads?

_________________
My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

No No No. It has a pair of independent NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed) contacts. Wire the power to one of the NO contacts and the relay to the other NO contact.

Try wiring to terminals 1 and 2. It should operate opposite of terminals 3 and 4. Since the switch should be a push on/push off, you won't really notice much of a difference.

Those terminals look like they are solder terminals.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my active Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE
or my archival Locost build log: over HERE

Wait so don't wire it like i have in the drawing?!

I have seen the connectors like shown below. I just don't know what they are called or where to get them. Trying to make it easily disconnected and as water proof as possible.

_________________
My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

The name for the terminals are quick connect, Faston or push-on. There may be other names. Be careful as the they are not only width, but thickness specific. It is a tradeoff between breaking the wires vs. having the terminals shaken off the switch. I prefer the soldering in an automotive application. Be sure to secure the wiring close to the switch to prevent wire breakage over time. Others have other ideas.

My comment was to correct the DPST description by Oldejack, not your wiring. I thought you had said you shorted out the contacts for terminals 3 &4. If you try the other contacts, between 1 and 2, it might be OK. Give it a try.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my active Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE
or my archival Locost build log: over HERE

ok so the rewiring worked. Thanks guys.

_________________
My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

Good News!

It is sometimes difficult, as you know, to troubleshoot wiring issues over the 'net. Fortunately it worked out this time.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my active Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE
or my archival Locost build log: over HERE