LocostUSA.com

Just keep on filling it with a pint jug till full.

Bob

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Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16640&p=187700#p187700

Mancave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/mypic ... ow/mancave

So is there any issue with plumbing the bottom of this tank to one of the heater hose ports and blocking the other one? I could also join the two ports and add a tee to the expansion tank.

Additionally, I assume I can tee off the highest hose on the engine and run it to one of the upper ports correct (not the one on the fill neck). Correct?

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

I don't know much about cooling systems. but I tried many different cooling arrangements in my car that failed to keep the engine cool. I had the most problems when trying to use one of the heater inlets and blocking off the other one. The simplest system worked the best--lower hose to the pump inlet, upper hose to the thermostat outlet. A Speedway filler pipe is fitted to the upper hose.

any other thoughts here?

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

Other thoughts? Okay, here's one.Maybe you don't need it near the engine. My car (a Locost with a small industrial diesel engine and a Lola Mk1ish body) has a Civic radiator leaned back about 40 degrees for body clearance and the filler cap is well below the thermostat cover (which is also the water egress for the engine). I drive the car nose up on a steep ramp to fill the cooling system via the radiator cap, idle it and blip the throttle a couple times to burp it, and keep the overflow bear* full to its belly button when cold.

I run it back up the ramp to check it every spring and the radiator has never been low, though the overflow bear needs a splash now and then. I suspect the impeller in the water pump breaks up any little bubbles small enough to go through the plumbing, and they percolate out in the relative stillness of the radiator header, float to the top, and get cycled out the filler cap when the water warms and cools. YMMV and yours doesn't have a conventional filler-on-top radiator, but I'll bet** if he'd had a ramp nearby, Nick47's car would have filled and cooled just fine without the extra filler in the hose.

*Honey bear overflow bottles are a local tradition. I picked it up from my friend/accomplice Sharon who used them on her ultralight aircraft--they are quite handy because they're extremely light and you can mount them with a zip tie standoff around the neck. Available from Kinetic Vehicles, part number p00h.
**Though I wouldn't bet against Nick47 if he says he tried it and it didn't work.

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Locost builder and adventurer, and founder (but no longer owner) of Kinetic Vehicles

Yeah i am going to have to do some jacking of the car up and down to make sure the system is full. The stock b16 doent have a bleed screw.. you just put fluid in and wait a few minutes... i dont like that nor do i like that it is an open system.

I think i will try to make a tee off the heater hose and loop them together. If not i can try a few other ideas from here.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

I skimmed the article which is a great effort but not entirely correct on a few items.

If the filler point tank is going to provide flow through the turbo jacket then they should be in series between the two heater hose connections or you could connect the jacket directly to the heater hose connections and tee one off before it steps down in size to the filler point tank. For flow, two connections are required; necessary for the turbo, not for the tank.

Would have replied sooner, but not everyone can post to forums everywhere they go.

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So looking at the attched pic... the blue nipple goes to the over flow tank and the other one goes where? Any used (tee off) or unused coolant port on the intake manifold? I don't really know where the highest point is so maybe just best guess it?? I think the one i higlited is the best one

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

they look like expensive hoses for the coolant, and do they flow as much as a rubber hose?

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this story shall the good man teach his son,
and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by,
from this day to the end of the world.
but we in it shall be remembered.

almost all of them are regular rubber hoses.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

The cap needs to be at the highest point in the system so any air is bled out during the normal expansion cycle.
The cap holds pressure, not temp operated.
Yes you still need an coolant recovery bottle to keep air out of the cooling system.
(helps prevent corrosion)(and blowed gaskets)

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Honey anyone?

Yes it is at its highest point and the over flow only comes into play if you don't want coolant on the floor but what I need to know is where does the other outlet that I highlighted need to tee into?

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

The way you have it located, the lower connection needs to tie into the coolant system at the next highest place if you don't want to trap more air. The upper connection can be blocked off.

And there is another consideration with the coolant on the floor. When the system cools down it will suck in air. if you set it up the way I mentioned, there will be air in the tank, but not in the system. Next time it heats up, there will not be any overflow on the ground.

There are other ways.......

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

John,

You are suggestion to do as in the pic?? Right now the lowest connection on the expansion tank is routed to the heater hose inlet on the block.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

??

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.