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PostPosted: October 25, 2015, 12:37 pm 
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BBlue wrote:
Briggs, the Ranger output shaft is in line with the crankshaft center.

Bill


Awesome, thats good to know. Thank you.

Do you know how much higher the trans output shaft sits then the lowest part of the oil pan?

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PostPosted: October 25, 2015, 11:30 pm 
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I don't know if the Focus 2.0 and Focus 2.3 oil pans are the same, but I'm pretty sure that the ranger pan is deeper than either. My Focus 2.0 isn't in a great position to get an accurate measurement, but it looks to be pretty close to 8 inches-ish. Bottom of the bellhousing pattern to crank and transmission input/output centerline is ~7.25 inches.

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PostPosted: October 26, 2015, 8:41 am 
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The Ranger pan is 5 1/2" deep and extends 1 1/2" below the bell housing. The crankshaft centerline is about 4" above the oil pan. So about 9 1/2" from crank centerline to bottom of oil pan.

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PostPosted: October 26, 2015, 3:07 pm 
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BBlue wrote:
The Ranger pan is 5 1/2" deep and extends 1 1/2" below the bell housing. The crankshaft centerline is about 4" above the oil pan. So about 9 1/2" from crank centerline to bottom of oil pan.

Bill


Thanks bill. Looks like my Driveshaft will have a downward slope.

I'm also curious if the ranger and focus have different oil pans, I feel like the ranger should be bigger.

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PostPosted: October 27, 2015, 8:31 am 
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They do. Here is the 2.0 Focus pan.

Image

The Ranger pan.
Image

Another view of the Ranger pan.
Image
The pan on the left is a steel kit from Merry Olde for the 2.0. It's windage tray would not clear the 2.3 rods and was above the bell housing. All in all, a bad idea for our application.

A gratuitous photo of something you will probably need.
Image

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PostPosted: October 27, 2015, 11:43 am 
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That looks suspiciously like a Zecetc Focus 2.0L, rather than a Duratec Focus 2.0L, in Bill's first picture. I'll try to get a more accurate measure than my previous post, and maybe even a picture, of the Duratec Focus 2.0L oil pan, later this week. You can also see how Andrew (a.moore) modified a stock Duratec 2.0L oil pan to be above the bottom of the bellhousing flange, in his build log.

The sheet metal pan that didn't work for Bill's 2.3L Duratec, does seem like it could be a decent option for a 2.0L Duratec builder looking to keep the pan above the bottom of the frame, but not wanting to pay for the cast aluminum Redline pan or risk modifying a stock cast aluminum pan.

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PostPosted: October 27, 2015, 12:03 pm 
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Driven5 wrote:
That looks suspiciously like a Zecetc Focus 2.0L, rather than a Duratec Focus 2.0L, in Bill's first picture. I'll try to get a more accurate measure than my previous post, and maybe even a picture, of the Duratec Focus 2.0L oil pan, later this week. You can also see how Andrew (a.moore) modified a stock Duratec 2.0L oil pan to be above the bottom of the bellhousing flange, in his build log.

The sheet metal pan that didn't work for Bill's 2.3L Duratec, does seem like it could be a decent option for a 2.0L Duratec builder looking to keep the pan above the bottom of the frame, but not wanting to pay for the cast aluminum Redline pan or risk modifying a stock cast aluminum pan.


So the 2.0 pan does bolt up to the 2.3 just has some clearance problems?

I'm ok with welding cast aluminum, just have to do some heat treating before hand. Couple of other secrets my welder won't tell me. LöL.

The more shallow I can get the pan the better. Then in turn the lower I can mount my differential and the more level the axles will be. I know axle angle isn't as important as driveshaft angle but if I can keep things on the mostly level side, the better I'll feel about it.

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PostPosted: October 27, 2015, 5:55 pm 
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Look at my build - I took quite a bit out of the bottom of a 2.0 pan. The limiting factor was the bellhousing diameter.

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PostPosted: October 28, 2015, 7:17 am 
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CRAP! It is a Zetec. I think it would be best to edit my post to prevent confusion.

Briggs, I really don't see the value of making the pan significantly shallower than the bell housing. Yes, I would rather have the bell housing hit something than the oil pan, but I'd much rather have nothing hit anything.

Bill


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PostPosted: October 28, 2015, 6:57 pm 
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BBlue wrote:
CRAP! It is a Zetec. I think it would be best to edit my post to prevent confusion.

Briggs, I really don't see the value of making the pan significantly shallower than the bell housing. Yes, I would rather have the bell housing hit something than the oil pan, but I'd much rather have nothing hit anything.

Bill


As long as the pan sits flush with the bell housing thats all I'm worried about. Good to know I can get the oil pan flush with it.

Ill have a plate under the engine so not worried about it hitting anything it will also sit level with the bottom of the frame.

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PostPosted: November 10, 2015, 2:20 am 
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
Quote"When you say ford unit I assume you mean using a ranger transmission. Correct?[/quote]Based on the context, I'd say "Ford unit" means the starter. Basically stating that there were no changes in starter mounting between the Ford and Mazda applications of these engines, so it's easiest to use which ever starter matches the flywheel being used. I'm pretty sure this is in reference to use with an NC Miata transmission though."

"That's what I thought. I'm sure there's an easy solution out there for light weight flywheel when using the ranger trans. Just need to find something that's the same diameter and tooth count. Bolt patterns can be changed."

Sorry guys for the delay in replying.

In regards to what transmission I am using, it is a 5 speed T9 Transmission out of the Mekur, just uses a bellhousing readily available from the UK that matches the T9 to a Duratec block/crank alignment.
The Ranger transmission ratios do not suit 7 type/weight cars. My T9 Transmission has a BGH Gearkit (UK) fitted running a 2.46 1st gear, 1.-1. 4th gear and .86 5th. I am running a R160 Diff from a Subaru WRX Limited Slip with a 4.1 ratio. This a good compromise for various driving uses, 4.4 to 1 is good for track work and the 3.9 to 1 is good if you do a lot of cruising.
I am using a Mazda starter, flywheel and clutch assembly from a Mazda 3/6, they all just bolt straight onto the Ford Duratec using the Mazda Flywheel bolts. The Flywheel is solid for the Mazda unit which is the same on the Mazda 3 and 6.
I removed/machined quite a large amount of excess steel from the outer rim of the Mazda flywheel before fitting. There was a noticeable difference in response over the previously fitted Dual Mass Ford Focus unit when driving with the car. It was still very easy/tractable to drive, e.g. I am able to do a 2nd gear standing start 2 up with no problems whatsoever. I believe it would be very easy to remove more steel from the Flywheel with no determent to the drive ability of the car. The engine as it is now is very responsive to throttle movements
The NC Mazda Miata 5 speed are very hard to get here in Australia but that would be the perfect option as it bolts straight up to the Ford Duratec block with no modification and is a lot newer type of Transmission that the T9.
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PostPosted: January 16, 2016, 1:04 pm 
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I just got my shiny new engine home last night, a 2.0 Duratec from a 2008 Focus (with 6K miles on it). It came without intake and exhaust manifolds, which is okay because I plan on using either ITB's or possibly DCOEs.

On the inlet side there is a circular, machined flat with a protruding tube. I can see from photographs of a stock intake manifold that it has a matching port and that the tube from the head extends into the manifold. Can anyone tell me what that port/tube is?

I can find photos of engines with ITBs on them, but every photo I've found is taken from the front quarter and that part of the head is obscured. I can't see what is done with that port when you use a manifold that doesn't connect to it.

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PostPosted: January 16, 2016, 1:45 pm 
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On the flywheel end of the engine? Might it be the EGR you're looking at? My intake manifold hasn't been taken off yet. I've also got a Duratec to DCOE manifold and a set of GSXR1000 ITB's that I'm planning to use together. So even though we didn't manage to get together before you picked up the engine, you're still more than welcome to come over and poke around on my engine for anything you want to see.

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PostPosted: January 16, 2016, 7:24 pm 
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Might be the crankcase vent.

Tom

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PostPosted: January 17, 2016, 2:08 pm 
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Its for the EGR system. The port goes through the head, makes a 90 degree turn, and exits right above the flywheel to the EGR valve. If you remove the EGR valve you'll see the port - right next to it is another port that goes into the exhaust port for the #4 cylinder.

Unless you're using the stock ECU, remove the EGR valve and make a blanking plate.

Image

You can see the blanking plate I made from 1/4" thick aluminum. Interestingly Ford offers a cast blanking plate but it didn't appear to be available in the US when I did mine.

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