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PostPosted: October 13, 2015, 8:53 pm 
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Joined: August 18, 2015, 12:41 pm
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Location: Seattle area (Woodinville)
stumbled onto this while researching megasquirt. DIY auto tune has a six switch combination rocker switch and circuit breaker panel on sale for about $85. It appears to be almost identical to a Moroso part, which is about twice as expensive.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/circ ... p-564.html

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PostPosted: October 15, 2015, 10:27 pm 
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Joined: July 17, 2015, 1:56 am
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Location: Morrisville, PA
JerryH wrote:
stumbled onto this while researching megasquirt. DIY auto tune has a six switch combination rocker switch and circuit breaker panel on sale for about $85. It appears to be almost identical to a Moroso part, which is about twice as expensive.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/circ ... p-564.html



Look into rocker panels for boats and maritime use. you may find cheaper new and used

Example 1

Example 2

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PostPosted: October 15, 2015, 10:50 pm 
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I can understand breakers in an aircraft, but for a car, not so much. A fuse or breaker opens because of excess current, and having a breaker open doesn't fix the problem any more than a spare fuse would. If the headlights go out in the middle of no where, having breakers just allows you to keep checking that, yes, there's a short that's preventing the lights from going on. They look cool but that's about it, as they're more expensive and are heavier than simple fuses.

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PostPosted: November 3, 2015, 10:50 am 
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KB58 wrote:
I can understand breakers in an aircraft, but for a car, not so much. A fuse or breaker opens because of excess current, and having a breaker open doesn't fix the problem any more than a spare fuse would. If the headlights go out in the middle of no where, having breakers just allows you to keep checking that, yes, there's a short that's preventing the lights from going on. They look cool but that's about it, as they're more expensive and are heavier than simple fuses.


Yeah, I need to rethink this. I was thinking of breakers for just a few crucial circuits, particularly headlights, where being able to reset one might make the difference in getting home. But I'm not going to route my headlight circuit through the switch anyway, I plan to use a relay.

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PostPosted: November 3, 2015, 11:58 am 
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You could always go super simple but keep the best of both worlds. Try a "fuse" breaker...

ImageImage

It's a self resetting fuse. Use them in car audio all the time and I plan to use a couple of them in the critical circuits (Fuel Pump, Headlights...) while leaving the ultra-critical (ECU, tablet...) on regular fuses.

If a fuel pump fails, you're going to know it a couple of different ways and this is just a final safety, but if the ECU shorts, I wouldn't want to keep hitting it with voltage before I found the cause.

Cheers!

K "shocking" S

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PostPosted: November 3, 2015, 12:08 pm 
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JerryH wrote:
KB58 wrote:
I can understand breakers in an aircraft, but for a car, not so much. A fuse or breaker opens because of excess current, and having a breaker open doesn't fix the problem any more than a spare fuse would. If the headlights go out in the middle of no where, having breakers just allows you to keep checking that, yes, there's a short that's preventing the lights from going on. They look cool but that's about it, as they're more expensive and are heavier than simple fuses.


Yeah, I need to rethink this. I was thinking of breakers for just a few crucial circuits, particularly headlights, where being able to reset one might make the difference in getting home. But I'm not going to route my headlight circuit through the switch anyway, I plan to use a relay.



Not all of the rocker switch panels have breakers if you just want the look of the switches. A few of the Flee-Bay switch I have run across are just a set of weather sealed (IP52??) switches with LEDs and little picture decals to indicate what was on ( Lights, Fogs, Horn, est est...)

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PostPosted: November 3, 2015, 1:09 pm 
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Breakers do allow for fixing a protective device (fuse or breaker) without having to carry spares. This is good when you have identified and fixed the fault, or the fault was due to an errant screwdriver. It will get you back on the road. As has been said, they are typically more expensive units. Just make sure they are DC rated breakers for the voltage and current, not AC breakers.

As for the self-resetting breakers, I'm not sure that they have much value in our vehicles. Let's say there was a fault that caused a spark and then flame. The breaker tripped, then you put out the fire. Then the self resetting breaker cooled down and closed again, starting the cycle all over again. Not such a good idea. They have their places, but not in my car.

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PostPosted: November 3, 2015, 1:46 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
As for the self-resetting breakers, I'm not sure that they have much value in our vehicles. Let's say there was a fault that caused a spark and then flame. The breaker tripped, then you put out the fire. Then the self resetting breaker cooled down and closed again, starting the cycle all over again. Not such a good idea. They have their places, but not in my car.
It's been stated often that all these cars are unique and built to the level of their respective builders. I've worked in car stereo for years, doing multi-battery, multi-amp arrangements. Playing with 1000A of DC is nothing and I have melted more battery/welding cable than most people will ever see in their life.

If I had a fire, or even a short, large enough to create smoke, the first thing I'd be doing is disconnecting the battery, via the Battery Disconnect Switch (everyone installs one of those in their build, right?).

There'd be zero chance of the fire restarting because of a breaker resetting!

To each their own.... Build On!!!

K "zaaaaaappppp" S

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