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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 17, 2016, 11:20 pm 
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Location: Seattle area (Woodinville)
a.moore wrote:
Its for the EGR system. The port goes through the head, makes a 90 degree turn, and exits right above the flywheel to the EGR valve. If you remove the EGR valve you'll see the port - right next to it is another port that goes into the exhaust port for the #4 cylinder.
Unless you're using the stock ECU, remove the EGR valve and make a blanking plate.
You can see the blanking plate I made from 1/4" thick aluminum. Interestingly Ford offers a cast blanking plate but it didn't appear to be available in the US when I did mine.


Thank you. And thank you for posting the photo.

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PostPosted: January 17, 2016, 11:41 pm 
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Driven5 wrote:
On the flywheel end of the engine? Might it be the EGR you're looking at? My intake manifold hasn't been taken off yet. I've also got a Duratec to DCOE manifold and a set of GSXR1000 ITB's that I'm planning to use together. So even though we didn't manage to get together before you picked up the engine, you're still more than welcome to come over and poke around on my engine for anything you want to see.


Hi Justin. I would like to come over and see yours some time. Things kind got away from me before the holidays. Now I'm trying to get a rolling chassis before I start work on a new deck in the spring. And this is competing with a bathroom remodel that my wife is determined is going to happen before the deck. Always something.

Jerry

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PostPosted: January 19, 2016, 11:52 am 
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a.moore wrote:
Its for the EGR system...You can see the blanking plate I made from 1/4" thick aluminum. Interestingly Ford offers a cast blanking plate but it didn't appear to be available in the US when I did mine.


While poking around looking at Duratec performance parts yesterday I noticed that Massive Speed System sells an EGR blanking plate for just over thirty bucks. The primary drawback appears to be that it's anodized bright purple.

http://www.massivespeedsystem.com/_mass ... 97348.aspx

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PostPosted: January 19, 2016, 12:23 pm 
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JerryH wrote:
The primary drawback appears to be that it's anodized bright purple.
You have got to love the color schemes they come up with for aftermarket parts.

What color would you like it to be?

K "shameless plug" S

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PostPosted: January 19, 2016, 10:14 pm 
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JerryH wrote:
The primary drawback appears to be that it's anodized bright purple.


A quick dip in sodium hydroxide solution will eat the anodizing away and let the color leech out.
Wash in a degreaser, rinse in plain water, then follow up with preferred polish of choice, or paint.

Dimensions won't change enough to care about.

Or, use the gasket to make a blanking plate with the drill press and jigsaw. :)

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PostPosted: January 20, 2016, 1:19 am 
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Regular easy off oven cleaner demolishes anodizing in short order dose not corrode the metal.


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PostPosted: January 20, 2016, 10:18 am 
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Thirty bucks for a scrap piece of aluminum with two or three holes drilled into it is not a drawback?

Bill


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PostPosted: January 22, 2016, 7:27 am 
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Quote:
The primary drawback appears to be that it's anodized bright purple.
Well now, Pilgrim, what ya got against purple??? (Note icon to left...)

Just kiddin... :mrgreen:
:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: January 23, 2016, 1:06 am 
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Speaking of Duratecs, does anyone know of any manuals or resources for rebuild information? :-? All the manuals I have seen so far say that Ford does not have rebuild procedures for them. Apparently Ford deemed them disposable?


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PostPosted: January 24, 2016, 11:11 am 
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There was a manual from the production line that was floating around for awhile. It wasn't really a how to - just how stuff went together and what torques to use.

Considering the cam sprockets and harmonic balancer is not keyed, I think you're right in suspected these were supposed to go together exactly once.

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PostPosted: January 24, 2016, 11:50 am 
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You mean this one?...http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/general-technical-chat/521297-repair-manual-engine-duratec-he.html

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PostPosted: January 25, 2016, 3:20 am 
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Perfect - thanks! A good place to start. I will pick up the specific cam tool and TDC pin soon.


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PostPosted: February 1, 2016, 7:17 pm 
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hi I am new to the forum, I am just wondering if anyone has successfully used a duratec 2.3 from a 2007+ for ranger. I plan on pulling the entire engine, automatic transmission, wiring harness and computer. I have hptuners software so I am wondering if I could use it to disable the pats system and if I really need the fuel pump from the ranger. is there something I could do to trick it either in the software or????

if anyone cares to share how they wired the efi engine for standalone operation that would be awesome. I have 2 chevy vegas one has a chevy ls1 efi I just finished wiring up the other one I plan to use duratec 4 cylinder. any help is greatly appreciated!


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PostPosted: February 3, 2016, 1:55 pm 
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so a 2005 focus 2.0 with a blown trans popped up in my area. I could pick up the entire car and have the pats key, antenna and everything I need here for the engine.

DO you guys know if the focus computer is capable of controlling the ranger automatic transmission?

I see most are using manual trans on the forums


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PostPosted: February 20, 2016, 5:14 pm 
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Is anyone running DCOE's on a two litre Duratec? I've been debating the Webers with Megajolt ignition vs. ITB's with Megasquirt. I just put together a spreadsheet showing the costs for all the components for each approach. A Microsquirt with the ITBs, ignition module, the high pressure fuel system stuff and all the ancillaries adds up to about a thousand dollars more than the Webers with Manifold, ignition, linkages, etc. A basic MS3, built from the kit is slightly more, and an assembled MS3 adds another couple of hundred. It makes for a compelling argument for the carbs, especially since I don't like the idea of the high pressure fuel system in the car, and I have access to some expert help for setting up the Webers.

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