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PostPosted: March 30, 2016, 7:28 pm 
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JerryH wrote:
Is anyone running DCOE's on a two litre Duratec? I've been debating the Webers with Megajolt ignition vs. ITB's with Megasquirt. I just put together a spreadsheet showing the costs for all the components for each approach. A Microsquirt with the ITBs, ignition module, the high pressure fuel system stuff and all the ancillaries adds up to about a thousand dollars more than the Webers with Manifold, ignition, linkages, etc. A basic MS3, built from the kit is slightly more, and an assembled MS3 adds another couple of hundred. It makes for a compelling argument for the carbs, especially since I don't like the idea of the high pressure fuel system in the car, and I have access to some expert help for setting up the Webers.



Im gathering the bits to do the same thing on a 1.6 Miata engine. I have the Webers, and found a Mazdaspeed manifold. Now Im thinking about ignition and its looking like the Megajolt with an EDIS 4 and a crank trigger will be the simplest/cheapest way to do what I want to do. You might already have the 36-1 trigger wheel and an EDIS if youre using Ford bits. Turns out the 2000 Protege has the right trigger wheel for me. If thats the route you choose maybe we can figure it all out together


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PostPosted: April 24, 2016, 5:20 pm 
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Location: Seattle area (Woodinville)
Quote:
Im gathering the bits to do the same thing on a 1.6 Miata engine. I have the Webers, and found a Mazdaspeed manifold. Now Im thinking about ignition and its looking like the Megajolt with an EDIS 4 and a crank trigger will be the simplest/cheapest way to do what I want to do. You might already have the 36-1 trigger wheel and an EDIS if youre using Ford bits. Turns out the 2000 Protege has the right trigger wheel for me. If thats the route you choose maybe we can figure it all out together


After much hemming and hawing, and a course change, I've decided to go with the Webers. The best price I was able to find on what I was satisfied are genuine (now made in Spain) was on Carbs Unlimited at $740 for a pair. They arrived last week, and are indeed the genuine article. http://www.carburetion.com/weber/weber.htm

After one failed attempt at getting a manifold (out of stock, probably won't be restocked), and figuring out the actual cost of others from the UK after exchange and shipping, I'll probably buy one of the Quad 4 Rods manifolds. I was balking at the price, and the short runner length. But now that I've been reminded how heavy the DCOE's are, having a very solid mount seems like a good idea.
http://quad4rods.com/index.php?page=sho ... mid=100041

After more research I'll probably use just the ignition side of a Microsquirt for controlling the ignition. It's not that much more expensive than Megajolt and will save me some money if I decide to change to EFI down the road. And you can use the DCOE's as throttle bodies so that is covered as well.

By the way, in the arguments about genuine vs. counterfeit/copy Webers - nowhere have I see that the Chinese copies don't actually work as well as the genuine ones. And in one case, the outfit selling them is actually licensed to use the name.

And I now have a set of Hayabusa ITBs that are looking for a new home.

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PostPosted: April 25, 2016, 12:11 am 
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Location: Seattle area (Woodinville)
Some general info from Ford Racing
https://performanceparts.ford.com/downl ... istory.pdf

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PostPosted: April 25, 2016, 8:21 am 
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Location: Falls Church, VA
good info

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PostPosted: April 27, 2016, 12:24 am 
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Location: Seattle area (Woodinville)
What's the large plastic cover on the intake side of the crankcase, just below the intake manifold? The cavity beneath looks like it might be a fluid passage, but the hose fitting on the cover does not look like it is intended for high pressures.

I can find a couple of photos of the cover replaced by a flat plate on line.

Update - It's funny how I can stare at something for hours, and in my mind for weeks (or in this case months), ask a question, then (possibly) figure it out. Is it intended as a heat source for the intake manifold? Something that I can remove and forget?

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PostPosted: April 27, 2016, 9:02 pm 
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If I'm not mistaken, you're referring to the crankcase vent, that sends piston blow by gasses from the crankcase back to the intake manifold to be re-burned. It should be pretty low pressure.

Back in the day, those gasses were not re-burned in the intake, but were just vented under the car with draft tubes. Made the cars stink.


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PostPosted: May 4, 2016, 4:33 pm 
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Location: Darboy, WI
Here is that Duratec assembly manual:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gk34jrwm93ru6 ... c.pdf?dl=0

Don't forget that now the 2.3 ecoboost is in the Mustang, it's another transmission source.


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PostPosted: May 5, 2016, 9:19 am 
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Joined: February 28, 2009, 11:09 pm
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Location: Connersville, Indiana
RossD wrote:

Don't forget that now the 2.3 ecoboost is in the Mustang, it's another transmission source.

What is known about this transmission?

Bill


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PostPosted: June 2, 2016, 10:52 am 
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Hi guys,
Just wanted to say this topic has been an extremely helpful resource in my project build, thanks to everyone who has contributed! i'm new to message boards so please excuse me if i do anything incorrectly.

one quick question, anyone know of any US based companies which do performance cranks for the 2.0l duratec? im looking for a steel forged, knife edged crank keyed cranks.

Also i think it'll be great if we could compile a list of suppliers of performance parts for these engines , especially for companies within the US; most of the suppliers referenced here are from the UK.

Thanks guys!


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PostPosted: June 3, 2016, 12:22 pm 
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BBlue wrote:
RossD wrote:

Don't forget that now the 2.3 ecoboost is in the Mustang, it's another transmission source.

What is known about this transmission?

Bill
I believe it's the same basic Getrag MT-82 used in the V6 and naturally aspirated V8 2015+ Mustangs.


barim wrote:
one quick question, anyone know of any US based companies which do performance cranks for the 2.0l duratec? im looking for a steel forged, knife edged crank keyed cranks.
To the best of my knowledge, the only supply of forged 2.0L cranks are those manufactured by Mazda for the 2009-2015 Miata.

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PostPosted: June 4, 2016, 7:12 am 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I'm sure cosworth makes one but it will be $$$$.

I need to get the ranger engine and Trans into my build. I'll be welding the focus oil pan soon.

If I was to buy a 2.3 Mazda engine and build it I shouldn't have any issues bolting the ranger transmission to it, right?

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PostPosted: June 7, 2016, 6:20 am 
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Location: Connersville, Indiana
Right. However, you may need to use Ranger flywheel, starter and clutch package. Not all components are interchangeable.

Bill


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PostPosted: October 19, 2019, 2:28 pm 
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Location: Seattle area (Woodinville)
My engine, from a 2008 Focus, came with the four coil-on-plug coils and their leads, but without the unit that the wires plug into that mounts to the top of the coolant outlet on the rear of the block. I haven't been able to find that unit on the websites for parts suppliers, such as 1A Auto and Rock Auto. I'm temporarily grounded because of a health issue so have have been unable to get to a Ford dealership to talk to their parts guys.

Can someone tell me what that part is?

And - more searching finds a photo of a 2009 Focus, without that unit, and with small diameter wires from a wire harness to the COP coils. That seems to imply that I could trigger my coils directly from my EFI ECU.

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PostPosted: October 20, 2019, 4:30 am 
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Jerry,

off the drivers side of the valve cover, there is an engine wiring connector. I think this is what you are describing. It probably is for the coils, injectors, and a few sensors around the head and intake.

No expert on this newer stuff, but it is typical of ford to drive the coils directly and individually from the ecu with no module. The coils are supplied power in RUN and START directly, with the ecu grounding each coil as needed to discharge/fire.

For your standalone aftermarket ignition, you need the coil connectors to build a harness but I think the connector has way more capacity than you need. Ask for the coil connectors/harness up to the connector. Even if new connectors and pins are reasonably priced, the crimper may not be.

Another option may be to retrofit and EDIS system with remote coil instead of individual coils. Depends on finding the right plug wire boot design to fit the valve cover and head cavity.

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