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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 7, 2017, 10:24 pm 
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Joined: March 6, 2017, 2:10 am
Posts: 11
This is what my grandfather is half way through finishing! I love the orange it looks awesome, very well done. And I see the kids are loving it too


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PostPosted: March 9, 2017, 6:12 pm 
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Joined: March 6, 2017, 12:44 pm
Posts: 41
Wow you got pasted safety with no wipers or defrost. I mite have to bring my car to your shop. i wanted a bug deflector not a full windshield but the shop i found wants wipers and defrost. your car looks like tire melting fun with that V6. be adding your build log to the list i have to read.


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PostPosted: March 10, 2017, 1:47 am 
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Joined: August 27, 2005, 1:04 am
Posts: 1414
Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
Thanks guys. Yup, no windshield needed in BC. There's nothing in the motor vehicle act or regulations that says you need a windshield, only that if you have one it has to be in good shape and safety glass. Shop around for a shop that local hotrod guys go to, and they will hopefully be more accommodating than most others.
Kristian

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viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172


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PostPosted: March 10, 2017, 12:06 pm 
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Joined: April 12, 2012, 11:56 am
Posts: 662
Location: Pemberton, BC
Kristian is correct. The rules state, that if you have a windshield, you will need a defroster and wipers. But you can avoid that by not having a windshield.
Make sure that you pick an inspection facility that you can work with. Once you have sent in the paperwork, and the inspection is not going your way, you cannot change inspectors.
Your inspector may (and probably will) ask for a structural inspection. This can be done by an approved auto body shop, but again, get your ducks in a row early on.

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Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"


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PostPosted: March 10, 2017, 6:54 pm 
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Joined: March 6, 2017, 12:44 pm
Posts: 41
thanks i have to talk to shop i have picked. i think he well let it pass if no law is broken. he has all ready told me to look for a way to do what i want and show him its ok for him to pass it that way. nothing else about my build plan was a problem for him. he likes to play with the wording of the law just like me. also told me if i bring him bare frame when done welding but before paint so my welds can be seen i mite not need structural inspection.


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PostPosted: March 22, 2017, 2:54 pm 
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Joined: May 25, 2006, 9:39 pm
Posts: 346
I know some inspectors want a structural inspection and some don't. My first pick of inspectors wanted one so I started through that step and was committed to going that route. After the guy at the shop OK'd the structural. He told me he had never done this before. I knew far more he did but he had the power.


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PostPosted: May 18, 2017, 11:31 pm 
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Joined: August 27, 2005, 1:04 am
Posts: 1414
Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
I've been cleaning out the garage so that I can get my work truck in there to pull the engine and rebuild it, and figured I might as well pull the locost out and clean up that side too. Turns out my uncle sold his Kelmark GT project, and the guy was coming to pick it up today, so I took my car over for some pictures. It's got the same 3.0 V6 as my locost, but it's in the back and hooked up to a transaxle from I think a Tempo. The Kelmark is built on a full length VW pan, and my uncle bought it as a running VW powered car. He cut the rear of the VW pan off and built a tube subframe to hold the new drivetrain and suspension. It's really too bad he didn't get it back together, it would be a fun little car.
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Definitely needs a bit of sound deadening back there.
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IMG_20170518_160626378_HDR.jpg


Kristian


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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172


Last edited by turbo_bird on July 6, 2017, 10:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: May 19, 2017, 11:18 am 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
Posts: 5326
Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Well, it was a good effort. It's great he found someone to take it on & maybe finish it. The front looks a little like a Ferrari Dino.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: May 19, 2017, 4:50 pm 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
Posts: 1879
Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
Brings back memories of a Kelmark I built in the 80's. A mid-engine Ford V6 but mounted north/south.
DaveW


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PostPosted: May 19, 2017, 4:54 pm 
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Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
davew wrote:
Brings back memories of a Kelmark I built in the 80's. A mid-engine Ford V6 but mounted north/south.
DaveW

Any more details? Which v6 and transaxle? Did you keep the VW front end or build a proper suspension for it?
Kristian

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PostPosted: May 20, 2017, 10:29 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
Posts: 1879
Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
Kristan
There are several issues with the Kelmark. First the stock fuel cap has a vent hole in the top of the cap. A V6 will accelerate a lot quicker than a VW 4 cylinder. You end up with gas coming out the vent hole all over the windshield. Add a vent to the filler tube. I ran the vent all the way back to my engine.
2nd add a reinforcement tube across the front dash area of the body to attach your steering column to. I also tied it to the center tunnel. I also added two 1 ½” sq tubing side rails to the floor pan and tied them to the front suspension tubes and roll bar. I used the same tubes for running the coolant up to rad and the return.
I up graded the front to Ghia disc brakes and Type-3 rear drums. I used gas-shocks on the front and rear along with an aftermarket front stab bar and a rear stab bar from a VW bus. I used the stock front suspension, set the negative camber as I high as I could which was less the 1 degree. No way to adjust for bump steer.
Your trunk [original engine cover] sealing lip will collect water. You need to add drain tube to keep the area dry. You also need to seal the upper rear fender wells to keep the engine bay sealed from the trunk area.
The rad was almost horizontal set at 15* with complete ducting on four sides. I used a small V8 rad which was probably over kill. But as long as I was moving the fan never came on.
I did have an initial cooling problems. Running the coolant piping such a long distance caused cavitation, when you quickly rev’ing the motor. I had to add a large expansion coolant tank [1 ½ qt] in the engine bay. It had an extra lower outlet hose that run to the water pump inlet side, which allowed the pump to draw water from the tank until the pump could overcome the mass of the water the cooling system and get the water moving up to speed.
My power train was a V6 from a Capri. I had a cam, single plane manifold, larger carb, cold air system, higher CR, headers, Mallory ignition, ported head and oil cooler. I used a Kennedy engine/trans adaptor and clutch to the VW transaxle. I flipped the ring gear, welded the press-on gear, and used later model 4th gear. [higher over drive]
Living high on the hog, with a BMW radio/tape deck and Mitsubishi heater and A/C system.
Dave W


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PostPosted: May 20, 2017, 1:36 pm 
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Joined: August 27, 2005, 1:04 am
Posts: 1414
Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
I don't know what's going to happen to my uncle's car, but it went to a local guy that fixes up mostly old sports cars. He was telling us that he had rescued a couple old jags the day before. I got a definite Gas Monkey Garage vibe from the guy. He probably won't be keeping the car, but if he finishes it before flipping it, I'd like to see what he does with it.
Kristian

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viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172


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PostPosted: June 17, 2017, 3:20 pm 
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Joined: August 27, 2005, 1:04 am
Posts: 1414
Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
I finally broke down and went to the local Toyota dealership to find the nuts I need for my lower ball joints. I couldn't find anything at any of the car parts stores or fastener stores I tried. Turns out Toyota didn't have them either, but they can special order them from California, for $17, each. I wish I knew what the ball joints came from, I could probably get them with the nuts for that price. Oh well, they're ordered now. I just insured my car for the summer yesterday so that I can take it to a local car show tomorrow, so I guess I better fix it properly before putting much on it for mileage. If it was an exposed nut that I could keep an eye on I probably would have just used a nylock.
Kristian

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PostPosted: June 17, 2017, 7:21 pm 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
Posts: 5326
Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Have fun at the show. You'll be answering a lot of questions, I'm sure.

Hopefully, you'll find some picture-worthy-moments [hint, hint].

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: June 18, 2017, 8:55 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
Posts: 1879
Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
"for $17, each"
You need to tell the Toyota parts man you want the standard metric nut and not the gold plated :ack:
Dave W


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