I like when things line up like this. Bolted the bracket from my engine stand on, and everything was just the right height to slide it into the stand.
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Got the block all cleaned up and painted the external surfaces with some leftover engine paint.
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All the important stuff all cleaned up.
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New bearings and dropped the crank in. Tap the dowels in between the block and main caps, then torque up the mains first, crossbolts after. All the bolts in the engine use at least a couple torque steps, first with a torque wrench, then a specified angle after that. Crank spins real nice and smooth. Ford says to use engine oil for assembly line, so I guess that's what I'll use.
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Dropped the pistons in after checking the clearances, man these new engines are built tight. Ford specs are 0.00075" - 0.0015" piston clearance. I was concerned that it was too tight, so I asked my dad to bring over some better measuring tools than my cheap digital calipers. A couple holes are almost too tight, but he figured I'm good to go. I didn't even need a trip to the hospital for stitches this time.
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The rod bolts are the same torqueing procedure, so I finished them up before dinner and bagged the shortblock to keep dust out. The rods are a powder metal type, with cracked caps, so they have to go back together the same as they came apart.
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Kids are in school again tomorrow, so I should hopefully get the heads on and maybe get it timed too. If it isn't too hot out, I'll try the POR-15 on the rust spots too.
Kristian
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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
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