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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: October 8, 2017, 8:46 am 
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A few vids from assembly... way more complex and time consuming than it needs to be... not locost.. enjoy.. more vids to come. Easier to watch than read.

https://youtu.be/-HQFFIgv614

https://youtu.be/CwuYdriFVkY

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PostPosted: October 31, 2017, 6:51 pm 
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Still waiting on .125 PetG. Keep myself busy workingon the sidepods, they looked done, but lacked many stiffeners and details.

Did a vid instead of pics.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5E4pWus91k

Andrew

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PostPosted: November 1, 2017, 6:50 pm 
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Had the whole day at home with no side business to handle today. Managed to start the mold for the air intake. This is a three part mold and needed to be fixtured properly. All the dam pieces were previously cut up, so it was a case of clay, wax, pva, and then the layup. It was nice to work on a small piece, and also nice to know that this is the last mold ill be making for the car project. Some other pics of pre primed aluminum, new welding helmet, and cut down drill bit and collet for oversize cherrymax.


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PostPosted: November 2, 2017, 12:12 pm 
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Location: SW Wes Consin
What is the aluminum primer?


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PostPosted: November 3, 2017, 4:49 am 
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vroom wrote:
What is the aluminum primer?


PPG super koropon, same stuff on the space shuttle and popular on the west coast for float planes, and widely used on commercial aircraft. Resists all kinds of solvents and skydrol.

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PostPosted: November 5, 2017, 6:45 am 
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I finished the mold over wednesday, thursday, and friday. Im still thinking through the next steps and how functional i want this to be. The molds came out well with a few issues where it doesnt matter. The temps were only around 15c in the shade were the mold was sprayed and laid up. Got the flash trimmed and a 1000 grit wet sand done on saturday. This is the last polyester mold I intend to make for this project. Coincedence that i used up my last 4 oz of gelcoat, last 8 oz of resin and second last gelcoat cup making the final piece.

Andrew


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PostPosted: November 9, 2017, 3:16 pm 
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Update.

Im well into the wing mount 2.0 project, which is proving expensive. Not so much in materials but rather aluminum zip disks and abrasives. Be back with more pics and some tips to pass along.

Andrew
GonzoRacer wrote:
Yo Airframe!
Thanks for the updates. Your work is a magical as ever, very cool stuff that forming hot plastic...

Left seat in front of the yoke looks like a great office to me. (Wanna-Be GA Pilot, Flight School Dropout here.) Enjoy!

And take care of those eyeballs! Good advice, Sir.

:cheers:
JDK


Thanks Gonzo

I took your advice and bought anew welding helmet with a grind function.

Never too late to start flying. I bet if you got licensed up, youd be capt at an airline, by say... next thursday... serious.. major pilot shortage..


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PostPosted: November 19, 2017, 9:52 pm 
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Update.

Wing mount is done. As mentioned my processes for design and layout center around the mounting holes, and the excess trimmed off. A set of radius gauges help identify the radius and the edge distance for fasteners. In this case, 2x dia was used.

Cutting of stock.. i tried out some aluminum zip disks in the grinder. As with all abrasives, the base metal gets warm. The dust is pretty bad too. For long straight cuts, a guide piece was used. Overall, I preffer the jigsaw with the aluminum blades, on a slow speed with the orbit off. Cutting paste lub helps drastically. Also managed not to break my wrist with a 2.25 dia hole saw in a cordless drill.. lots of pressure and an extremely slow speed to start.

Sanding and heavier stock removeal is done with sanding disks. Of course roloc abrasives are expesenve at 3-5$ a disk, but 4.5 sanding disks for a 4.5 inch angle grinder with a backing pad are about 1$ a piece. What helps with aluminum, is applying a bar of hamd soap to the disk so the aluminum doesnt clog up the disk. And it smells pleasant too.. irish spring.

For fine finishing and radius I used carbide burs.. slow feed speed and light pressure advancing can provide a very nice machine "like" finish. Holding at 45 degrees can prevent digging. A video may be in order.

Drilling and reaming.

With thinner sections of metal, i tend to free hand drilling ops as its not that critical if its not quite 90 degrees. For thicker sections, your not as good as you think you are. Especially with interference fit fasteners, you'll get a gap under the head. A drill block or bushings are helpful, most of my stuff including these are surplus aerospace and can be had for reasonable amounts. I modified a bunch of AN bolts into drill guides when i had acess to a lathe in one of the hangers i worked in. Those ones seem to get the most use.

Everything gets pilot drilled to no.40 and upsized when needed. The lockbolts used are .250 dia and my longest grip clecos are 3/16, so final size is done prior to install to make use of the long grip clecos.

The drill bits i use are surplus carbide double margin that nets a hole 200percent rounder than a single margin twist drill. Still not quite a reamed hole, but much better.

Same process for primer, but i left the parts to sit in a tub of mild phoshoric acid solution over night.. they were very bright and clean.

I didnt see much value added in polysufide sealeant on this part given the clamp and vibration resistance of the lockbolts. The parts were assembled wet with primer on mating surfaces.

Combination of aluminum and steel lockbolts, and titanium hi loks. Heres some pics. And yes... this could have easily been made from steel tubing for a fraction of the price or time... but that would not have been inline with this overly complicated, expensive build..

Pics.

Andrew

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Last edited by airframefixer on November 19, 2017, 10:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: November 19, 2017, 10:01 pm 
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PostPosted: November 19, 2017, 10:04 pm 
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PostPosted: November 19, 2017, 10:29 pm 
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PostPosted: November 19, 2017, 10:44 pm 
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Some of the other things keeping me busy are the basement repair from the leaking dishwasher in july, a gravel pad for my firewood, some tree work, rebuilding serveral tools needing bearings/seals, and some joggling jigs.

Fingers crossed plastic shows up tomorrow.

Andrew


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PostPosted: November 23, 2017, 12:44 pm 
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Dang, I'm trying to quickly catch up on LocostUSA, and now I see you've practically put on an aluminum fabricating course since I last viewed your build log. I'll have to come back after Turkey Day and see what I can pick up from your posts.

Nice work!

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 8:55 am 
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Yep, an aluminum fab* course, took down a tree, build a gravel pad for firewood, basement repair...

*Fab could mean "fabrication" or "fabulous". Could go either way, really...

Airframe, either you never sleep or you're actually twins. Tell the truth, which one is it??? :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: December 6, 2017, 9:00 pm 
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Thanks guys.

Just me gonzo.. had two weeks off to handle all that..

Plastic showed up.. as promised heres a vid forming it.. warning, vid is preceeded by loud drums and guitars.

https://youtu.be/VEk7isscoVI

Cheers

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