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PostPosted: September 13, 2018, 9:04 am 
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Joined: July 3, 2015, 7:15 pm
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Location: Atlanta GA Area
Massive speed systems sells quality parts for a Duratec. I bought my racing block, steel crank, K1 rods
High compression pistons, high flow head, cams, etc all from them. Very helpful in package choice based on your power goals. I am also using MS3 pro Fuel Injection . Output now about 240 at the wheels. Good luck !

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PostPosted: September 13, 2018, 3:33 pm 
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Roadog7 wrote:
Hi Guys,
Hopefully someone may be of help with a Duratec interchangability question. I’m quite tempted by several short blocks for reasonable price. L3YT-02-200D - 2006-2010 / eBay item #153095890094
My questions are: Can I put my 2002 ranger head on this newer block?
Can I bolt on my flywheel and clutch (also 2002 Ranger) to this “auto” engine? Will there be a hole for a pilot bushing? I’m assuming it will have a balance shaft which I would probably just leave in.
Any info or resources greatly appreciated. I would hate to make a costly mistake / lesson.
To the best of my knowledge, pretty much everything that bolts to the block of a Ranger 2.3L and a Focus 2.3L is all interchangeable.


papak wrote:
FWIW, I used a 2008 Ranger engine (2.3 l) with an Exedy flywheel for a Ford Focus. It weighs 12.4 lbs. as opposed to 19.5 for the Ranger. However, you will have to use a Focus starter as the ring gear spacing is different from the Ranger flywheel.
Interesting. Ranger trans? Based on a previous thread where the Focus flywheel caused interference on a Q4R bellhousing setup (http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=8441) I had perhaps incorrectly assumed that the difference would more than likely cause issues in with the bellhousing, input shaft, release bearing, or some combination there of when used with the Ranger transmission.


Roadog7 wrote:
Thanks, that certainly points to another area of consideration. That could add more trial and error, added to which I have a Quad4rods bell-housing to a T5 trans.
I believe the Q4R bellhousing was designed to use the Ranger flywheel and clutch, but I'm not sure what disc. Is the Ranger disc also compatible with the T5 installation? Regardless, if by chance you do have the desire (and budget) to cut the flywheel weight down something sportier, Spec does offer an aluminum Duratec Ranger flywheel.

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PostPosted: September 14, 2018, 1:52 pm 
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Joined: January 6, 2015, 4:42 am
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Location: Southern Oregon
Driven5 wrote:
To the best of my knowledge, pretty much everything that bolts to the block of a Ranger 2.3L and a Focus 2.3L is all interchangeable.

Thanks, this has been my assumption as well. Any idea of what differences might exist between the VIN D & VIN Z designations?

Driven5 wrote:
I believe the Q4R bellhousing was designed to use the Ranger flywheel and clutch, but I'm not sure what disc. Is the Ranger disc also compatible with the T5 installation? Regardless, if by chance you do have the desire (and budget) to cut the flywheel weight down something sportier, Spec does offer an aluminum Duratec Ranger flywheel.

My flywheel and clutch cover are definitely Ranger, but the T5 fitting 9 groove shaft clutch disk is an unknown. I haven't been too worried about a lighter flywheel. Throttle response is pretty much "right now". After putting a lighter flywheel in my Civic si - daily driver / old autocross car, I noticed slightly better throttle response but really no lap time improvement. Having said that, I do recall seeing a picture of your Spec flywheel! :drool: ! Certainly looks nice!


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PostPosted: September 14, 2018, 1:56 pm 
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Location: Southern Oregon
Rudy14 wrote:
Massive speed systems sells quality parts for a Duratec. I bought my racing block, steel crank, K1 rods
High compression pistons, high flow head, cams, etc all from them. Very helpful in package choice based on your power goals. I am also using MS3 pro Fuel Injection . Output now about 240 at the wheels. Good luck !

240! OMG - Thanks for the reference. I only knew them for their pretty purple parts!


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PostPosted: September 14, 2018, 2:32 pm 
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Roadog7 wrote:
Driven5 wrote:
To the best of my knowledge, pretty much everything that bolts to the block of a Ranger 2.3L and a Focus 2.3L is all interchangeable.

Thanks, this has been my assumption as well. Any idea of what differences might exist between the VIN D & VIN Z designations?
It has been a while since I've put much thought into specifics, but my recollection is that pretty much everything is different between the two, even if predominantly interchangeable. This may not be the 'definitive' thread about it, but it seems to cover most of the details:

https://forums.focaljet.com/showthread.php/637949-2-3-engine-Focus-x-Ranger-same-engine

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PostPosted: November 24, 2018, 4:53 pm 
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Location: meadview arizona
so i have a broken 2.3 due to the timing gear on the crank held in place by LUCK and a very tight bolt.

i do not consider the friction washers as being of any real purpose as in my application which is supercharged, the load on the crank pulley wants to undo the bolt as is evident by the bent valves etc. i think this is due to the power required to turn the blower at around three times the crank and somthin" has to give, and the pulley turns counter clockwise in relation to the crank, thus undoing the bolt or causing a loss of friction with the washers so the crank sprocket is then free to move.

so yesterday i ordered a Cosworth sprocket with a key way and a suitable key from Burton in England, also i ordered a one piece intake manifold gasket so that i didn't have to make my own.

i have also obtained a smaller crank pulley so as to slow down the blower to allow the boost to build at a more sensible rate than with the stock pulley.

this is a street driven car and going into open loop came in too early and really hurt my economy, go on laugh , blower/economy, hahaha!!!

however, the reduction in pulley diameter will reduce the leverage on the crank, this pulley will also be keyed to the crank but it doesn't leave much material so i may have to modify the key on one end to be smaller than the 5mm Cosworth key to a profile similar to the Massive 3mm key so reducing the amount of material removed and lessen the chance of the pulley fracturing at the keyway.

i may also have an additional key way cut in the crank off set for the pulley and machine the pulley likewise, with the smaller 3mm key.

the pulley i want to use is aluminum but i am considering also that the center could be removed and the center of the original pulley could be machined to fit inside it and bolted together, this would be less likely to fracture if keyed to the Cosworth 5mm key.

perhaps the best option would be to file down the key 1mm on the portion in the pulley to 5mm wide by 4mm deep so that the pulley only has a key way of 5mm wide by 1.5mm deep thus leaving as much of the pulley hub in place without reducing the shear section of the key, i will know more when the pulley arrives as i may be able to just machine the key way in the crank deeper to 3.5mm so that only 1.5mm of the key protrudes out of the crank, bearing in mind that the timing sprocket is extremely hard, i will of course use a suitable sealant on the key to stop oil from leaking down the "open" part of the key way.

any thoughts on this would be helpful.

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Last edited by john hennessy on November 25, 2018, 6:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: November 25, 2018, 12:05 am 
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Joined: January 18, 2015, 2:34 am
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Location: Los Angeles
My installation with the Exedy flywheel is with a Birkin bellhousing. That may account for the ring gear spacing issue.


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PostPosted: March 4, 2019, 9:54 pm 
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Joined: January 6, 2015, 4:42 am
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Location: Southern Oregon
Starting assembly this week - crank / rods back from machine shop. I have 2 nagging unanswered questions: should I put spray sealant on a new Felpro head gasket? Also what is easiest way to immobilize engine when tightening crank pulley bolt? Any input from the Duratec experts greatly appreciated!


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PostPosted: March 4, 2019, 10:12 pm 
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Roadog7 wrote:
Also what is easiest way to immobilize engine when tightening crank pulley bolt? Any input from the Duratec experts greatly appreciated!


Not Duratec specific but I built one of these about 5 years ago (scroll about half way down): https://www.mgexp.com/article/midget-re ... ledge.html

Works great at holding anything that wants to spin. I made the strap part of mine longer so it could do flywheels.

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PostPosted: March 4, 2019, 11:41 pm 
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Joined: January 1, 2012, 12:44 pm
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Location: Boise, Idaho
I made a holder that bolts into the starter location and engages the ring gear. The teeth/offset tab were located on the main strap when the engine was at TDC using the factory alignment tools.


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Last edited by seven13bt on October 13, 2020, 8:40 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: March 5, 2019, 2:05 pm 
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Joined: January 6, 2015, 4:42 am
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Location: Southern Oregon
Thanks! Both look like reasonable solutions although the 1st idea kinda relies on the workbench / engine holding arrangement more. Either way the flywheel will need to be on first. Related thought / question: Do you leave the timing tools (crank pin + pulley bolt + cam holders) in place while tightening? Or remove and refit later?
Also still looking for a concensus on head gasket copper spray. Anyone?

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PostPosted: March 5, 2019, 5:16 pm 
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Answer based on the use of stock friction washers:
Remove the pin, leave the pulley-to-cover bolt in, but you need the "two pin" pulley holder to resist any torque load on the pulley. The cam positioning plate is necessary to keep them in time with the crank until the pulley bolt has been torqued.
I highly recommend the Chilton manual.
My $0.02: The FelPro gasket is fine as-is, but the manual says to put a dab of silicone sealant at the locations where the chain cover will be overlaying the block/head seam.


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PostPosted: March 7, 2019, 1:58 pm 
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seven13bt wrote:
Answer based on the use of stock friction washers:
Remove the pin, leave the pulley-to-cover bolt in, but you need the "two pin" pulley holder to resist any torque load on the pulley. The cam positioning plate is necessary to keep them in time with the crank until the pulley bolt has been torqued.
I highly recommend the Chilton manual.
My $0.02: The FelPro gasket is fine as-is, but the manual says to put a dab of silicone sealant at the locations where the chain cover will be overlaying the block/head seam.


Thanks again - I forgot I had an old Haynes manual. Pulley holder tool shown as well! I forgot about the silicone dabs as well but will be studying the factory manual closer as I go.

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PostPosted: September 18, 2019, 6:59 pm 
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So some people are saying the NC miata transmission doesn't actually match up perfectly, and that the bolt holes dont line up, causing the transmission to be twisted a bit.

Does anyone have any experience with this issue?


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PostPosted: October 12, 2020, 8:40 pm 
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Location: Seattle area (Woodinville)
trizvi96 wrote:
So some people are saying the NC miata transmission doesn't actually match up perfectly, and that the bolt holes dont line up, causing the transmission to be twisted a bit.

Does anyone have any experience with this issue?


My NC Maita lined up perfectly with my 2007 Duratec.

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