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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 7, 2019, 9:10 am 
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Like most online stores, they just sell parts. No tech support. Look to part mfgs for tech support.

DD shaft is identified by the distance between the flats so you have .75 DD. A .75-48 rack and .75dd column are common sizes but don’t order anything until the rack and column are fitted for minimum joint operating angle.

There are many ways to do this. If you need a third joint, decide if you want a split support bushing block or a one piece that would require an intermediate shaft that can be taken apart and has a shaft larger than the spline end so the bushing can slip over the spline ( or weld a sleeve over the shaft where the block will sit). Split allows for a one piece intermediate shaft with welded yokes. A support block does not need to be a spherical. Install around the shaft, fit a steel base plate with the mounting bolts on the block, then build the frame up to meet it, tack, take it apart, then final weld.

High quality ujoints can be rebuilt and the yokes are removable/interchangeable/available separately for welding shafts without damaging the bearings. High quality joints have bearings instead of bushings (though I think bushings are fine) and can’t vibrate apart at the hinge( set screws at the ends must be loctited, better to stitch weld).

A picture would be nice to see what you are trying to work with.

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PostPosted: February 7, 2019, 4:48 pm 
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I just got an email reply from them... didn't jive w/ what was on their website. "We don't sell u-joints" etc.

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PostPosted: February 7, 2019, 5:34 pm 
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I'm sure it was s simple disconnect in communication. You might try calling again. Remember they are on Calif time zone.

Like MV8 said, tell & show us more of what your issues are. We might be able to steer you (pun intended) in the right direction.

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PostPosted: February 8, 2019, 9:20 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
Like MV8 said, tell & show us more of what your issues are. We might be able to steer you (pun intended) in the right direction.


Thank both of you for your help!

I found some of the Camaro donor bits today, which probably saved $100 and gave me a bit of collapsible column on top of that (Hempy asked me about that one). So now I am down to a bit of DD rod and a U joint, which I've ordered.

Here are a couple of pics with the current mock up:
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Attachment:
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PostPosted: February 9, 2019, 7:24 am 
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So a 3/4-48 x 3/4 dd joint to fit a 3/4 dd shaft into the female slip joint in the intermediate shaft?

Wait until the rack is mounted and the suspension checked before cutting the shaft.

If the joint yoke uses a set screw, spray some paint on the dd shaft, insert to the required depth and run the screw into it. Take it apart and dimple the spot where the grub screw made contact. Might also replace the grub screw with a longer one if there is no room for a jamb nut and use red loctite or a small weld on the edge. Good idea to go ahead and paint the new joint and dd shaft since they will probably be uncoated and will rust quickly.

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PostPosted: February 9, 2019, 6:25 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
So a 3/4-48 x 3/4 dd joint to fit a 3/4 dd shaft into the female slip joint in the intermediate shaft?


A 3/4" spline goes on the Appleton rack, and a 3/4" DD goes towards the slip joint stuff I got from the donor. I'll have to see if I need a heim joint for support once this is all together.

Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Wait until the rack is mounted and the suspension checked before cutting the shaft.


The steering rack is something I located about 3-4 years ago, when I was first building (dang, longer than that?!?!). Anyway, I've that location pretty well in mind, but might do something to make the thing more solid -- right now it's 16 ga metal between those 1" tubes that hold it into place.

Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
If the joint yoke uses a set screw, spray some paint on the dd shaft, insert to the required depth and run the screw into it. Take it apart and dimple the spot where the grub screw made contact. Might also replace the grub screw with a longer one if there is no room for a jamb nut and use red loctite or a small weld on the edge. Good idea to go ahead and paint the new joint and dd shaft since they will probably be uncoated and will rust quickly.


All understandable, and great, suggestions. Thanks!

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PostPosted: February 9, 2019, 7:00 pm 
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If the new male dd is loose in the female dd (which would cause slop in the steering also), forget it being collapsible and weld them together or have a machine shop increase the size of the male dd for a tight/snug fit. Supports are needed when there are more than two joints, not for intermediate shaft problems.

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PostPosted: February 11, 2019, 12:53 pm 
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While waiting for steering parts I am working on the pedal box. My take on a floor-mounted Haynes-ish foot box:

1/8" steel, will be the firewall in front of the driver. The thing will wrap around the lower horizontal 1" square tube and attach to the vertical tubes by my feet.
Attachment:
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2" or so 3/8" steel bar I had sitting around. Lower pivot will be JEGS shock mounts, which give me 1/2" grade 5 bolts on a 1/8" br**ket. The pedal surface is from a 4" exhaust tube I had sitting around.
Attachment:
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Prior to welding the pedals. Note the round tube at the bottom -- 3/4" wide, will see if that gives me enough side-side stability.
Attachment:
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So this is where I am right now... Clutch and brake pedal welded in. Barely enough room for the gas pedal, but barely is good enough!
Attachment:
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PostPosted: February 11, 2019, 12:57 pm 
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Plans are to use an old 1978 Chevrolet Monza brake master cylinder (7/8” bore) and I might just have to pay the big bucks ($50 or so) for a Wilwood clutch MC.

Why are OEM 1" MC's so much cheaper than 7/8" MC's? Enquiring minds, etc.

The rest of the brakes are stock S10, and the clutch slave is the oem external Camaro T5 unit for now.

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Last edited by geek49203 on February 11, 2019, 1:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: February 11, 2019, 1:02 pm 
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I think these are the OEM Seven units:

Attachment:
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Attachment:
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PostPosted: February 12, 2019, 5:02 pm 
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Those look pretty simple. Where did you get the photos?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: February 12, 2019, 6:31 pm 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
Those look pretty simple. Where did you get the photos?

Cheers,


The Internet! Seriously, I'll look for the location.

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PostPosted: February 12, 2019, 6:34 pm 
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Still working on it..

Attachment:
fixed_20190212_122711.jpg
fixed_20190212_122711.jpg [ 123.91 KiB | Viewed 373 times ]


Go-pedal. This one is not nearly as overbuilt as the brake and clutch pedal. Hopefully I wear it out, flatten it...

Attachment:
fixed_20190212_122725.jpg
fixed_20190212_122725.jpg [ 71.55 KiB | Viewed 373 times ]

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PostPosted: February 12, 2019, 7:37 pm 
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Those are s4 lotus pedals (the fiberglass 70s seven). The rest had opposite facing masters like the triumph spitfire. All had hanging pedals including caterhams.

A 7/8 master is not hard to find cheap. Look at smaller vehicles they made a lot of. I found an 85 chevette master for $15 on rockauto.

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PostPosted: February 12, 2019, 10:31 pm 
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Those look just like the pedals on my golf cart

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