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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 13, 2019, 7:31 am 
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carguy123 wrote:
Those look just like the pedals on my golf cart
Golf cart... Lotus... Not that far apart, really... Golf cart was probably heavier. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: February 13, 2019, 10:48 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Those are s4 lotus pedals (the fiberglass 70s seven). The rest had opposite facing masters like the triumph spitfire. All had hanging pedals including caterhams.

A 7/8 master is not hard to find cheap. Look at smaller vehicles they made a lot of. I found an 85 chevette master for $15 on rockauto.


Yup, found it, and bought it. Thanks!

I note that the Chevette steering rack, reman, is $100-ish on RockAuto, which might be a good idea for lots of builds?

And do you have thoughts on the clutch master cylinder? The donor MC was at an extreme angle that makes it unusable w/o tons of silly fabrication here.

Thanks again!

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PostPosted: February 13, 2019, 11:35 am 
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86 corvette app. You have lower leverage pedal with more piston travel for a given pedal travel so a slightly smaller bore should be doable, but I'd put the pivot very close to the pedal pivot and make sure the master is positioned so the pedal can provide full piston travel.

I saw 3 different bore sizes for the slave listed on rockauto. Not sure what is correct or if there really are 3 sizes. I doubt it.

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PostPosted: February 13, 2019, 11:57 am 
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Steering u-joint arrived! OH BOY OH BOY OH... (feces).

Looks like the joint's 40-something splined end is 20 thou smaller diameter than the destination splined shaft.

Heat it up by 250 or so degrees-F and slip it on?

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PostPosted: February 13, 2019, 12:09 pm 
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No. It should slip on easily. Part number of what you bought?

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PostPosted: February 13, 2019, 1:13 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
86 corvette app. You have lower leverage pedal with more piston travel for a given pedal travel so a slightly smaller bore should be doable, but I'd put the pivot very close to the pedal pivot and make sure the master is positioned so the pedal can provide full piston travel.

I saw 3 different bore sizes for the slave listed on rockauto. Not sure what is correct or if there really are 3 sizes. I doubt it.


Damn you're good!

$19.96, Duralast, at my local AutoZone. 5/8" bore but wondering if it's really 11/16...

The OEM Camaro until that it's replacing was 3/4" and 1-1/4" stroke.

you're thinking 5:1 on this?

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PostPosted: February 13, 2019, 6:59 pm 
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Ensure you run out of pedal travel at the same time you run out of piston travel and the ratio will take care of itself.

Push the rod fully into the master and measure the distance from the eye to the master mounting flange (dim X).
Push the pedal fully forward. Make a vertical line down the side of the pedal X distance from the front of the box minus the box thickness (.125"?). Make the hole as low as practical considering clearances for the best ratio with max travel. Once you put it together and test it, if it isn't quite right, you can make the pushrod adjustable or shim the master forward. If the pedal is not where you want, make the pushrod longer.

If after you've maxed out the master, it still isn't quite enough for the slave, You can offset the slave toward the flywheel effectively shortening the fork for less leverage and more travel. Don't maximize slave travel becuase it needs some extra travel for clutch wear. As the clutch wears, the pressure plate fingers move away from the clutch. If it can't move, the clutch gets unloaded by the bottomed out slave and starts slipping when you still have some clutch life left.

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PostPosted: February 13, 2019, 9:27 pm 
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Heated up the U joint to 350 (put in oven when wife was gone while baking her cookies!).

Didn't begin to slip on. Hmmm....

If I ream out the U joint won't I simply remove all of the splines? Which is not what I'd like

EDIT -- well, DUH... it's a 40-spline unit, and now it makes sense... 11/16" 40 spline. Not 3/4" 48 spline. DUH....

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PostPosted: February 16, 2019, 8:20 am 
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Testing one two, is this thing on? :lol: You crack me up Tim, but at least you are honest. :cheers:

Look at what sweet mfg has to offer. I know they have what you need.

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PostPosted: February 16, 2019, 8:35 pm 
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I got the proper unit from the vendor, fits great, no fire or ice required. Soon I can actually have steering!

Next... brakes, clutch and vroom vroom sounds?

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PostPosted: February 18, 2019, 1:30 pm 
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The 2 MC's have a 4" push rod. Obviously built for 4" between pedal attaching place and the MC's.

And of course I only planned for 3".

So need to cut up what I've done a bit and modify...

Tim

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PostPosted: February 26, 2019, 11:37 am 
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So we're now looking at the proportioning valves.

This is kinda the stock one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Universal-A ... 2452146083

and ends up looking like this:
https://express.google.com/u/0/product/ ... gJ5TfD_BwE

I think I saw an ad for a unit that incorporated an adjustable bias valve as well as a brake light switch as well as a residual pressure valve... but can't find it? FOUND IT -- Woodward. No residual valve, nor brake light valve, but close to what I recall

Your thoughts?

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PostPosted: February 26, 2019, 6:46 pm 
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geek49203 wrote:
This is kinda the stock one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Universal-A ... 245214608


That's the PV that I've used on 3 builds now, never had an issue with them operationally, a great carefree unit.

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PostPosted: February 26, 2019, 7:08 pm 
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I'll assume you are talking about a brake light switch and not a brake warning switch, which is part of an oem prop valve.

There is this if you want a hydraulic brake switch:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/210-11179-Adju ... 2561478649

This for a separate switch:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-Pro ... 1219098789

and here is a good switch you can fit easily:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Light-Sw ... 2488132612

Push the pedal fully forward to the firewall. Tape a strip of card board to represent the switch finger to the pedal so the end of the finger is as long as possible and as low as possible. Weld a strip of 1/8 x 1 to the pedal. You could go with very thin metal but thicker will be easier for you to weld or you can use .050 sheet and make a flange to accept a couple screws through the pedal to hold it on. Make a brkt from another strip of 1/8 to hold the switch with the plunger pressed in above the end of the finger. You will need to offset all of the this to one side or the other to make sure the pedal does not contact the switch or brkt. There is a nut above and below the brkt holding the switch. When the plunger is pressed, the circuit is open. When the plunger extends, the circuit is closed.


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PostPosted: February 27, 2019, 10:12 am 
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Tim

Is this what you were thinking about?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-apv-db

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