Johnsinski wrote:
I'll have to get a quote on axles,
not sure I want to trust my welding on that. Also don't some longer axles need a rubber thing in the middle to damp vibration at high speed? Not sure I want to try to engineer that.
The axle that came out is about 12.18" long and I figure I need about 20.12"
I think I get what you're explaining for you're axle removal technique. You are using a pipe that fits over the axle and is longer than the distance from the center star to the end of the axle. Then when you "bring it down in a stabbing like motion" (Pulp Fiction reference I assume
) onto a solid board, the pipe stops and the axles mass pulls itself out of the CVD star.
Those must be the shortest axles around if you need to add 8 inches. I had to cut 2 inches from mine.
From what I see of your welding, you would certainly be capable of welding axles, especially for a BEC car. Typically there is very low torque, comparatively. Low torque - less stress. Success is dependent on with the design of the splice and the peak power you are trying to put to the ground.
Not sure that I'd recommend this technique on 2 splices per axle, but I offer it. I ran them over 6K miles on my RX7 powered Locost, another low torque engine. JD did similar splices on his big ole 'muricin V8 Mallock tribute car with sticky slicks and is still running his V2.0 axles on it today.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=4145&start=37I remember replacing the outer CV joint on a '81 Mazda GLC. The same problem with the clip. I ended up not damaging the retaining splines on the axle but did cut nice square notches in the retaining clip.
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