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PostPosted: July 9, 2019, 5:27 pm 
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Rocan wrote:
Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
You might want different offset for the rims due to the amount of scrub.
Consider balancing the camber gain in roll with the camber loss under hard braking (one wheel bump).

A shortened manx buggy doesnt have much room for an engine behind the driver without stretching the wb. A transverse bec with a hawk coupler to a small irs diff should fit pretty well though no reverse.



Interestingly, the wheel offset is the factory offset from the saturn sky/pontiac solstice. Stock they run 18X8 ET55. I did note the amount of scrub in the front wheels.


I'll take a look at the camber gain in roll vs camber loss under hard braking (just thinking about it, wouldn't increasing camber gain for one also increase it for the other? ie adjusting the top control arm to be at a steeper anger for increased camber gain?)

You're correct... the manx is very short. I will be stretching the wheelbase ~5-8" or so to accommodate the J35 and subaru transaxle. Worst case if I need to move the rear wheels back so far that they interfere with the bodywork I'll glass in new fenders. I'm too invested in the J35 and transaxle to switch plans now- adapter plate is already on order. I'm okay with being a bit cramped- I own a 71 Mini so i'll feel right at home :lol: .


I think the amount of scrub while making for good feedback with ps, made manual steering not a factory option on the solstice. The smaller tires help a little but still about 1-1/2 inches. I'd keep the ps or leave room for a pump on the motor later if you want to add it down the road.

I'm saying camber loss in that during straight ahead braking, the wheel tilts away from 90 to the surface, the contact patch goes away/concentrates on the edge of the tire to reduce traction/overheat the rubber above where loading improves traction. A compromise between one wheel bump and gain in roll.

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PostPosted: July 9, 2019, 5:59 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
I think the amount of scrub while making for good feedback with ps, made manual steering not a factory option on the solstice. The smaller tires help a little but still about 1-1/2 inches. I'd keep the ps or leave room for a pump on the motor later if you want to add it down the road.

I'm saying camber loss in that during straight ahead braking, the wheel tilts away from 90 to the surface, the contact patch goes away/concentrates on the edge of the tire to reduce traction/overheat the rubber above where loading improves traction. A compromise between one wheel bump and gain in roll.


That makes plenty of sense. Finding a wheel with that much offset might be impossible... I could machine the hub to get a bit less scrub, but I doubt it will make enough of a difference. I plan to run a manual rack but will definitely keep in mind that steering effort might require a need for PS down the road.


Camber gain on braking was excessive... I see that now... If I raise the upper control arm mounting point I can get significantly less camber gain under braking, lets say ~1/2° per inch of bump, but my outside tire camber goes to 0 with around 2° of body roll. I suppose once I take into account camber gain as a result of caster angle, it should balance out. Also I suppose its a lot easier to correct excessive body roll using a sway bar than it would be to adjust damper settings for brake dive.


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PostPosted: July 9, 2019, 7:39 pm 
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Here is an Updated VSUSP link. I designed it with slightly more camber gain in the rear than the front. My thinking is that the rear doesn't have the added benefit of caster induced camber gain, and with so little static camber and the mass of the engine in the rear, it will tend to roll more than the front.

Rear roll center ~2.6" and front is ~1.5" in this config. I would really appreciate some advice to those who have already gone through this process in their mid engined build.
The LOLCost


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PostPosted: July 23, 2019, 12:12 pm 
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Joined: June 25, 2019, 1:25 pm
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Quick update... I purchased a copy of Susprog3D, which has made figuring out the suspension geometry significantly easier. Excellent support from Bob, the programmer who wrote the software. Took a few days to figure out why my registration wasn't working, and his responses were always extremely fast (when our time zones lined up as he is in Australia).

Additionally I've been modeling the entire vehicle in Solidworks. I've also made the decision to completely ditch the VW floor-pan and to make the entire chassis out of round tubing :BH:

There has been a significant increase in the project scope, and a lot more design work required on my end, but ultimately it should end with a much better vehicle. I'm not taking the time to accurately model all the dimples and dimensions on every part I'm reverse engineering. I'm mainly focused on the important details like overall dimensions and critical mounting points. With that said if someone has an accurate model of a J series Honda V6 or a Subaru Transaxle, I would greatly appreciate it. Many many thanks to @mjalaly who had the rear uprights from a Saturn Sky already modeled, as well as the hubs from a Cobalt.

Apologies for the image quality- I had these pictures handy. I'll start taking screenshots from now on. I cannot take credit for the Body/seats/lights- Found them at the link below and then scaled them to match the dimensions of my Manx- I may need to scale the length down but the width at the rear is correct, which was my focus at the time.

https://grabcad.com/library/meyers-manx-dune-buggy-1

Image

Image

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PostPosted: July 25, 2019, 4:02 am 
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Nice effort, modelling will pay dividends long term I am sure.

I have reverse engineered my J35Z2 bellhousing and crank with reasonable accuracy. The block is only a block model & no engine mount details yet as that is still on my list of things to do - probably have that detailed in the next few weeks. Unfortunately cannot attach a CAD file - PM me and I will forward an IGES which will have the bellhousing bolt pattern.

Cheers,
Marcus.


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PostPosted: July 25, 2019, 11:56 am 
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I really appreciate you sharing your model. :cheers:

I have to account for an extra 2" between the transaxle and engine for the Kennedy Adapter as well... having that bolt pattern definitely gives me a good reference point and aids in placing engine and transmission mounts. I was ready to order the adapter, but with the lead time I was expecting a delivery while I would be away on vacation, so I'm waiting to place the order.

I've been deep into susprog3D, trying to get the suspension set up the way I want. I have a lot of limitations given that I'm re-using the control arms. Susprog has a nice solving feature which helps to place suspension points- Interestingly it placed my roll center and control arms very near where I thought would be near optimal. I have a few more data points to check, but the rear suspension geometry is almost to a point where I can start designing the chassis.


This is the boring parts... analyze, adjust, test, repeat. Lots of spreadsheets and number crunching.


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PostPosted: July 26, 2019, 4:30 pm 
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I spent more time with the software and realize my tire data must have not saved. Using the correct tire size (235/40R17) I was able to lock my roll center such that it doesn't migrate more than ~.25" at any point and moves very gradually.

Static Rear Camber = -2°
4° Roll Rear Camber = +0.002°
3" Bump Rear Camber = -5.483°

I expect about 1" of Bump when at 4° of roll (just a guess) which should give me about -1° of camber at the outside rear tire, right in the money spot.

Swing axle length = 77.550"
Rear Roll Center Height = 2.75"

Going to leave the rear there for now and set up the front. I can share the SusProg3D.s3d File if anyone cares to take a look at it.


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PostPosted: August 14, 2019, 1:35 am 
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TRX wrote:
Someone pointed me to these guys a few months ago:

https://www.3jdriveline.com/lsd/

They're in England. https://www.teamblitz.com/ is one of their US importers.

There's a pretty big WRX aftermarket; someone might make a spool.


You might check with these guys. They built me some awesome custom CV axles for a former project. And they're not in England. http://www.phoenixrackandaxle.com/our-products.php


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PostPosted: August 19, 2019, 12:50 pm 
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40flash wrote:

You might check with these guys. They built me some awesome custom CV axles for a former project. And they're not in England. http://www.phoenixrackandaxle.com/our-products.php



Thank you for the link 40flash... If you don't mind me asking, what did the CV axles end up costing?


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