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PostPosted: November 24, 2019, 8:17 pm 
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Compression testing results
Dry:
CYL1: 120
CLY2: 110
CLY3: 100
CYL4: 120

Wet: they all went up between 180 and 270 but I guess that depends on how much oil I put in. Regardless its pointing to the rings not holding compression. Possibly from running rich and washing the cylinders.

I didnt see any material in the oil when I drained it but I could be in the baffle area so I will need to drop the pan and look further.

I will do leak down test next.

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PostPosted: November 28, 2019, 7:36 pm 
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No bearing material in the oil pan!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yeah!!!!!!!!! I'm going to put a borescope down inside spark plug holes and up from the bottom to see if there's any scoring on the cylinder walls.


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PostPosted: March 14, 2020, 3:19 pm 
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Well she started up!! That's a big relief. I think now I am going to drain the coolant and see about modifying the radiator to make it a dual pass. I'm a see if Saldana Racing can quote a new one too. Not quite sure what to do about the cooling problem I figure I would go there next.

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PostPosted: March 15, 2020, 7:56 am 
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All your pics are gone. You can re-add them the same way you did when posting them.

You've had a ton of advice on cooling from a lot of different people with these cooling issues. Did you implement the air-oil cooler and high amp fan? You could always keep the little spal and use it on another project later as a secondary such as a tow vehicle. Maybe you should just turn down the boost until what you have is reliable.

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PostPosted: March 15, 2020, 12:52 pm 
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Yes I did install the high temp fan and the oil cooler. Not the prettiest install though. I did run it on the track but it seem to have little effect along with the higher temp fan. Now I need to start looking at other parts of the cooling system.

Thoughts are:

1) the radiator has stagnant flow causing heat flow (pretty sure)
2) the radiator isn't large enough
3) flow issue (pump or tubing size)

I dont think turning down the boost (pretty low as it is) will help since I can get her to over heat in the garage just getting on the throttle. I also need a way to collect better data. Open to more suggestions.


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PostPosted: March 15, 2020, 2:07 pm 
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Post pics. Pretty doesn't matter.

I went back enough to see you put in a high amp fan.

I can make most any car overheat in a confined space. Yes, boost is directly proportional to the heat generated.

What size are the coolant pipes?
Is there a bypass circuit for when the stat is closed? There should be minimal bypass because it allows coolant to bypass the radiator.

How much boost are you running? How much hp?
When you overheat, what are the temps when it starts flowing into the overflow?
How long will it idle without overheat from ambient?
What temp do the fans come on?
Are you monitoring oil temp also?
Where are you taking temp measurements?
What ratio gycol to water are you running? The more glycol, the lower the boiling point.
What is the timing set to?
Too lean at idle?
Feel the radiator core as it warms up. Any cooler spots or is it warming evenly?
Restrictions in the pipes can be felt as it warms up as differences it surface temp.
CO2 check the coolant for bubbles can show if the head gasket is failing and the boost is over-pressurizing the coolant system, causing overflow.

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PostPosted: April 8, 2020, 9:39 pm 
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This will be quite the step down and I will need to figure out where to put it. I also need to figure out which way the coolant flows and decide which side to put it on (hot or cold) which depends on what the stock pump does. I think it pushes cold coolant into the engine but I'm not sure how Honda B18 works. I figure it should be on the opposite side of the stock pump which puts it up near the rad... again I just need to figure out which side.

I'm also not sure which way the electric pump flows but I assume the outlet is 90deg with the axis of the motor or pointing down in the pic.


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PostPosted: April 9, 2020, 3:54 pm 
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Correct, the 90° fitting is outlet, inlet looks into the impeller. Same as the compressor on a turbocharger.

Will this be inline with your main cooling system flowpath? It seems quite undersized if that is the case.


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PostPosted: April 9, 2020, 6:07 pm 
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Yes inline. I dont think it needs to be much bigger just help a bit. Worst case is that it doesnt work and I need to find a bigger one.

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PostPosted: April 14, 2020, 8:10 pm 
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Something like this....

I ordered some 3/4 hose, mounts and power grips. I plan on starting her up this weekend and figuring out the coolant flow path to properly install the pump. Hopefully I can get it installed this weekend and the reduction doesnt cause flow issues.


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PostPosted: April 15, 2020, 2:56 pm 
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I think you're headed down the wrong path with that pump. It will most certainly be a restriction in a properly functioning system. The flowrate on you b18 water pump is supposed to be around 37gpm, that electric pump is only 6gpm. Also, the 3/4" line is 1/3 of the flow area of you're 1.25" coolant tubes. A lot of the pictures are gone from your thread, and you've changed engines so it's hard to tell what your coolant routing is like. If you post some pictures of how you have it routed we may be able to spot something.

For reference, on my H22 I am using 1.25" coolant lines, up to a 1/2 size civic radiator (2 row 50mm thick). The circuit that ran through the fast idle valve, throttle body, and IACV has been bypassed with a piece of hose from the head to the thermostat housing. The heater core ports have been capped off. The original oil-coolant heat exchanger has been replaced with a thermostatic sandwich plate, oil-air cooler, and the original coolant lines from that now run to another 25 row cooler.

When I first got my car on the road, I didn't have the oil cooler or extra side cooler, there was no rad ducting whatsoever, and a really weak fan. That was still adequate enough for most street driving, and some autocross. The fact that you're overheating so easily with the rad and fan that you have leads me to believe there is something fundamentally wrong. I think that you either have an air lock or something mixed up with the coolant routing.


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PostPosted: April 15, 2020, 7:15 pm 
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Pics are gone forever I think.

Yeah if there is some thing wrong with the coolant lines then it would be on the small hose routing not the main tubes. See pic of the only bends from the rad to the engine.

Was your rad on the other side of the car like mine?

Adding the pump is very reversible so not a big deal. Worth a shot.

All coolant lines pics posted. I will edit a diagram so it makes more sense


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PostPosted: April 16, 2020, 9:58 pm 
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Yeah I'm not sure about that 37 gpm rating on the stock water pump. The nice electric ones which a lot of racers use and street guys use to replace the factor unit is only 20gmp.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEZ- ... mage=large

Seems like this a common issue

https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-raci ... g-2630402/

I could also get the 55gpm version.

Still wanna test this little guy first.

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PostPosted: April 17, 2020, 1:35 am 
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Yes, my rad is way up front like yours. Your coolant routing makes sense to me. The head return still feeds back to the t-stat housing. You're using the iacv line to feed the surge tank and feeding it back to the water pump inlet. All looks good to me.

I got the stock pump flow rate from here
https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc ... ps-703767/
B18C 148qpm

If you're just trying stuff out in the garage and not driving, you could also try rotating the rad 90* so it flows top to bottom. Might help you figure out if you have an air lock.


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PostPosted: April 17, 2020, 6:46 am 
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I do agree with Zac88GT, there must be some other fundamental problem.

Have you confirmed sufficient water flow through the radiator?
How about the thermostat? Is it working properly?

Maybe try and remove the thermostat and then confirm sufficient water flow through the radiator by removing the water return line to the radiator.

I have not read everything regarding your issue, do please excuse me if you have tried it already.


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