LocostUSA.com

If these LEDs are all COTS replacement items I bet the circuit to run them properly is already there and all you need is DC source and a fuse. If you were making this with bare leds, yes you need to think about current. I prefer Sumitomo waterproof connectors but they are harder to source sometimes.

For the plugs just have one for each light and tie the ground together on the chassis side and then to the chassis ground point.

True, "if" the LED assemblies are touted as automotive assemblies, then yes, the current-limiting resistors are likely contained inside it. Probably.

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

My recommendations are in RED above.

The advice that KB58 gave is true if you are dealing with individual LED's. What you have is an assembly with LED's that is aleady designed for use with automotive systems of ~10-15VDC.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

@WelderLee
@a.moore
@KB58
@hfmaxi
@rx7locost

Thank you, gentlemen, for your input. You've given me lots of new information, and that's what I needed.

It's frustrating that there is zero information about the electrical requirements for any of the three LED lights. I bought them all through Amazon. I'll have to see if I can find vendor websites and get some of these questions (internal circuits, fuses, resistors, etc.) answered.

Also, I now have some connector types to look at, which is a big, big help.

Thanks again,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Lonnie, I used the Metri-Pac 240 connectors and while I like the theory of them and that they fit micro fuses (several options) the plug housings are a bit bulkier than I would have liked.

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

@Mnot
Thanks, Gavin, I'll take a look at those too.

In a bit of an update on the LED lights and the need for some protection when connecting to the typical 12V system, all three may be connected directly to existing wiring. So, no special protection or drop-down is needed.

I contacted IJDMTOY Auto Accessories (license plate light, backup light) by phone and found information on the Xprite (spare tire brake light) website. I was disappointed to find Xprite has discontinued the model I have (85 LEDs) for a two row version with 160 LEDs. I would have loved to have the additional brightness as we know our cars are below typical sight lines of SUVs, etc.

I also found some 2" wide leather straps and D-rings for my spare tire hold down. Those will be here by Monday.

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

I'm posting a little early, but my plan ran into a problem, and I didn't finish my little subproject today, so I'll post what I've got.

The parts for the leather belt arrived a few days late. This was a piece I expected to farm out to a local leather worker, but I found we don't have any nearby, so I'm doing it myself. Here's the inventory.


The leather punch is ancient one I've had for years and the burnishing stick I made from hardwood scrap. I haven't done any leather work since my high school Hippie days, but I know some basics.

The burnishing stick, which you use to round and seal the edges of the strap I made in 10 minutes with some round files and sandpaper.


There are few things I can do in the house on my build, but this was one. I did a lot of the grunt work while watching the Petit Le Mans, 10-hour, IMSA race from Road Atlanta on Sunday. It was very competitive and interesting.


The edge work is labor intensive and time consuming. First, you need to bevel the edges of the strap. They make special tools to do this fast, but I decided to use my razor knife rather than wait a few days for the special tool to arrive.


Then you have to 2-stage sand the beveled edges, first with a medium grit, then with a fine grit sandpaper to get the edge smooth, but leave the ends of the fibers open.



Once the edge is smooth, you use water applied to the edge, and run the slotted burnishing stick running over the edge quickly, many times, producing heat through friction to round it over and compress the fibers at the same time.


I wanted to edge dye the straps kind of in the Western saddle tradition. So, I used Frog tape (supposedly leakproof with water based paints and dyes) to seal the finished surface off and applied a black, water-based, leather dye to the edges.


Unfortunately, the Frog tape did leak even though I edge sealed it completely with a steel rod. I can fix that with some Meltonian shoe cream, but hadn't planned on it. The big bummer is the D-rings I was going to use (early photo). The inside dimensions are not as represented in the vendor's online drawings, so the strap binds too much. I'm going to have to find new ones as this was the vendor's largest size.

The dyed edges have to be sealed with bee's wax and the burnishing tool, which I did get done today. I could have finished the whole rig today if the D-rings worked. Now, I'll have to wait a couple of days to get that done. Aaaaagh!


So, on to something else tomorrow, but I have appointments that are going to spoil most of the day tomorrow.

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

I too Lonnie did leather craft in school, skills that you never forget. Nice work on the belting, hope you find the right size D rings. This will really add to your build.

Although at my age I'm more into latex than leather, go figure

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

@horchoha
Thanks for the encouragement, Perry. I located and ordered some very different D rings today. They should be here in 2-3 days. They should look very cool, especially with the Western Saddle edging.

With respect to latex, nothing I've got looks good in latex anymore, Perry.

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

My wife (girlfriend at the time) wore a tee shirt "You would look better in rubber". I married her... YMMV

Keep at it Lonnie. I had friends working on the pits at that race. It was a good race.

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

@Mnot

My kind of humor too, Gavin. God help us (Perry included).

I'm praying we'll get a return to some kind of spectator attended racing out here in 2021. Long Beach is scheduled for April 16-18, but it's written in pencil just in case it changes due to continued COVID restrictions.

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

I've been working on the locking retainer mechanism to keep someone from unstrapping the spare tire & wheel and just lifting it out and stealing it. I wanted something simple, but effective. Here's my solution.

This is a side view. It's held in place with magnets in the photo. I'll be welding it in place tomorrow. It's a simple 1/2" by 16 gauge tube bent to fit into a locking mechanism on the tire carrier. The spare has to move up 4" vertically to be removed from the carrier. This prevents the tire from moving more than an inch or so vertically, and it can't be slanted to the rear to get under the retainer since it bends down about 3-1/2" as you can see in the profile view below.


Rear view of retainer.


Here's the view of the retainer before welding it to the vertical tubes you can see (the ones with the magnets on them) in the first photo.


Here's the underside.


Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

That's pretty cool forward thinking there Lonnie. Playing devils advocate here, I always say "that keeps the honest crooks from stealing it".
But that's just me, iffin I were an honest crook, I'd be going for the whole car, nut just some fluff
Really great to see you progressing on the build

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

@horchoha

Perry, the common wisdom these days is that it already has an excellent anti-theft device - it's a manual transmission. Hardly anyone knows how to drive one now [LOL].

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

If you add a fly-off parking brake, you will cover the 99% of those who know how to drive a manual transmission. Most don't even know what a fly-off brake is.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766