LocostUSA.com

Just tubes with all braces, etc... no paneling. Particularly interested in those with real 4 point roll bars with cross brace.

My original Rotus frame is a real porker. Freaking 245 lbs!!!

Granted, about 40 lbs of that is probably additional tubing I added for replacing the lame 2 point, shorter than my head roll bar that was there.

It's a good thing I brought some additional horses to push it around.

I figured a good light frame is probably 150-170 lbs, but I have no idea.

On the other hand, she has withstood many years, many of them with V8's without any cracks or failures, so I guess that's good. Still depressed about the weight.

The distribution of the frame weight is roughly 61% on the back axle.

What are your weights?

I'm almost sure this exact thread was here within the last six months.

Anyhow, my mid-engine Mini's bare chassis is 200lbs.

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

I searched for frame weight and didn't see it. Oh well.

My chassis came in at this in kilos, thats 240lbs but I would rather be safe than sorry


and looks like this with full cage and all brackets

you can check my build diary here http://www.oz-clubbies.com/forums/index ... owforum=13
and look under onetrackwonder racing locost cheers greg

Including my 30lb 16g steel floor and 16g panelling on the footwells etc. But minus the rollbar. It's probably nearly a wash.

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He is a wise man who does not grieve for the things which he has not, but rejoices for those which he has.

ontrack, you have a more substiantial roll structure than I do.

thanks for the feedback guys... my chassis is still on the heavy side, but maybe not by as much as I thought.

Just finished mine, all be it, without any rollbars yet, and I'm not racing it.
But it came in at 145 lbs. I can see where a full roll cage would weigh at least 100 lbs extra. So 240 is probably pretty good.
Wayne

Bare frame without the top engine bay diagonal tube 78lbs
Add floor pan, front lower fire walls and both kick up areas next to the rear suspension points, using .053" stock added another 73 lbs.
Painted assembly 154lbs. again W/O top engine bay tube.

Dave W

My basic chassis was 123 lbs, but that was without any of the center tunnel tubing installed and missing some of the other bracing. Also, my chassis had no roll bar (yet). I would not be surprised to see over 225-250 lbs, complete.

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Jack Collins

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Quote:It's a good thing I brought some additional horses to push it around.

I figured a good light frame is probably 150-170 lbs, but I have no idea. (quote)





IMHO you are not asking the right question. Between a BEC builder to another one who builds a V8 Viento (luego) you should get a slew of varied answers and for good reasons. If you take a book chassis (Ford escort) and modify it to live up to the stress of supporting a 351 V8 you should end up with large differences.

Also: the bird cage is not the most critical components as far as weight is concerned.

Hope this is of some use to you.

Philippe.

Yes, I agree, a BEC frame will not need to live with the stresses of a V8.

The difference between a 4 banger car frame and one that can handle a light V8 will be pretty minor though.

Anyhow, I was looking for a ballpark.

quote:Yes, I agree, a BEC frame will not need to live with the stresses of a V8.

The difference between a 4 banger car frame and one that can handle a light V8 will be pretty minor though. quote


Response

I would double check that one too.
What I have read is that flexing moments induced by a V8 exceed a 4 cyl's. The two factors at play being engine/transmission weight and torque. The subject is covered in various studies to be found in the Clubman resource site. Specific frame modifications have been formally required, in Australia for instance with respect to large engined Locosts. As an illustration the Australian racing 5.0 V8 Elfin weighs over 1900 lbs.
Good luck.

This seems as good a place as any for this question. My steel supplier here in Tulsa doesn't stock .095 or 13 gauge tube. I just bought 100 feet of .083 or 14 gauge for my build table. I'll have a bit let over. They stock 12 gauge (0.108) or something like that. I know builders have used the 14 gauge....has anyone experirnced any problems? The 12 gauge would add about 10 pounds per 100 feet of tubing. I don't consider that an excessive amount but I'm the worlds worst at over building everything. I am seriously trying to uphold the Seven concept of sveltness.

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RacerDan
+442 Chevy 2.8
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the
Ark, professionals built the Titanic.

For a BEC or 4-cyl, you'll be fine.

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

I was under the impression "everyone" used 16ga.

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http://www.SportsCarDesigner.com .... You want to design your own car... so go ahead. Sports Car Designer is the answer.