I've spent way too much of the last two weeks standing at my lathe! Finnished all the bushings, threaded rodend bungs, adapters and what not. I also pulled the motor and finnished all the braces and suspension in the rear. And finnaly finnished all the little details on my front upright and since I still get questions about them I'll post some more pictures.
Attachment:
uprightsfullview.jpg
In this pic you can see the slots in the bottom of the steering arm as well as the stepped slot on the bottom of the plate that is welded into the top of the box section. This stepped slot is used to hold the nut for the top ball joint from turning. You can also see the crush tubes that were mentioned a few posts ago. And yes, the lower rod end is pointing out the wrong side. I got in a hurry to snap the pics.
Attachment:
steeringarm.jpg
Attachment:
upperrodendbushings.jpg
Details of the steering arm attachment. Loosen 2 bolts, 2 nuts and upper balljoint bolt to ad or remove shims to adjust camber. Should have put a few shims in for the picture. The rod end is a 5/8" with reducers to use a 1/2" bolt. This gains more adjustment range. I also boxed in the back of the steering arm for more strength.
Attachment:
bottominsert.jpg
The bottom insert needs a couple of pieces welded on for the nut to register against as a socket can't reach the nut with the crush tubes in the way.
Attachment:
threadedbung.jpg
To maximise steering angle, I turned my own bungs then welded a nut on the inside end. Instead of useing a jam nut, a bolt is threaded into the welded nut and tighted against the rodend end. Anyone see any problems with this approach?
Now onto the front suspension and the center tunnel befor taking the chassis over to a friends for finnal welding. The duty cycle on my little HF welder would take me forever.
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. I actually tried everything I could to use a traditional shock layout in the back and found a perfect motorcyle shock with a spring rate that would have worked but after looking for a month for one to come by on e-bay I gave up. I ended up useing a 97 yamaha yfz600 that Junior gave me. Thanks man! Of coarse buying another one was almost as much as the two R6 shocks I'll be using in the front 
but it kept me going. The pushrod, bellcrank and the shock are almost inline with eachother so I don't think side loading will be a problem with the delrin bushings in the bellcrank. I did have to put the rod end on the side of the bellcrank so I'll have to box it in to keep it from flexing. I also got the front pushrod designed. Both ends increase their wheel frequency by 10% in a nice gradual manor over the range of their travel. I'll determine if I need to go softer or harder befor I drill alternative mounting holes. I also picked up some wheels and tires for a steel off craigs list so I couldn't help but through them on and spin them by hand while turning the steering wheel and making noises. Moving parts really make the build exciting!
